Hey folks, ok well I didn’t take any pictures during fitting but it’s easy enough to explain what to do.
The part numbers you need are;
6Y0 827 550 C – GAS STRUT (Gas struts strong ones to give lift on boot pop) £16.36 each.
1J6 827 439 A – BALL PIN (To replace the old ball pin (that the strut clips on to) £4.28 each.
1K8 827 761 C – BUFFER (the rubber bump stop things!) £3.57 each.
I don’t have the MK6 Badge part number, I bought mine second hand off eBay but have heard they are about £90 ish new from a VW dealer.
To replace the boot badge;
Open the boot, underneath you will see 2 handle areas either side of the boot edge, see photo of one side;
Undo the Philips screw under each one, there is only one screw per side.
Gently pry away (easiest to do from the rear – so the furthest part up when the boot is up) the plastic trim, this pops off as it is clipped in, they can be a bit of a pain, but just be patient and do it slowly and it will eventually pop off all round and come off.
You will probably lose a few retaining clips but don’t worry, fitting is the reverse of this, just take your time with it.
Once that is off, you will see 3 Torque screws holding the rear badge in place, you will not be able to get to one of the screws, as the rear wiper motor is in the way, all you do, is simply unscrew the 3 screws holding that in place, and slightly move it out of the way, allowing you to get to the 3rd boot badge screw.
Once undone, turn the badge out of it’s ‘lock’ position (you will see when it’s in front of you, very simple) – undo the electrical connector and then take out old badge, and replace with the new badge, turn that into it’s ‘lock’ position so the plastic clips are against the existing boot clip to hold it in place.
That part sounds hard, believe me, it is incredibly simple.
The wire will not stretch, so you will need to get a pair of scissors and just cut some of the tape and undo one of the clips holding the wires in, to give yourself some decent slack to allow the connector to go back on to the MK6 badge.
Do NOT leave it so it is stretched, allow a bit of flex in the cable, it is easy to do this, just undo tape/clips as necessary.
Check the boot to make sure you’ve put the badge the right way around, and then just screw everything back in using the existing screws, nice and easy.
To fit the ‘boot pop’ parts. (2nd person needed ideally to hold the bootlid when undoing the struts).
Use this guide;
http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edoc/MK5RearHatchPop.pdfWith regards to how to adjust the boot gap, mine isn’t flush either, I think it’s always been like that, these ones are adjustable, you put an allen key in the hole and undo it, you can then pull out / push in to adjust the gap, but too far in, the boot won’t pop fully up, too far out, you’ll damage the hatch eventually with too much pressure on the lid.
I have done mine with 2 marks out on the bump stops (you’ll see what I mean when you fit them).
It doesn’t pop up fully ALL the time, but most of the time it does, and will probably get better when the struts loosen up a bit, the boot is also stiffer to close but that’s fine.
