black wire : connect to ground (ended up fastening to chassis ground (blue nut in right of next picture)
white wire : trigger to 'dim' - connect to pin10 on back of headlight connector (circled in next picture)
red wire : connect to switched live (12v ignition) - connected to spare switched live in fusebox in dash
Darren ended up making it into a single loom by simply fastening the two reds, two whites, and two blacks together. The reds were then extended with a single wire to go through the bulkhead behind the battery, ending up through the dash to the fusebox. So, one connection at fusebox, one ground connection and one connection to pin10 on headlight connector. The two dimming units were then passed down behind the nearside headlight, down behind the foglight. The nearside dimmer module and connector were then ready to plug in to the nearside fog/DRL light unit. The offside dimmer module and connector were passed behind the front grill/numberplate to the offside foglight area, ready for plugging in.
Additional info:
The 'trigger' feed was taken from pin10 off the back of the nearside headlight connector as shown above. The black plastic surround was removed and the wire to pin10 was cut to allow the white 'trigger' wires to be connected. Rather than using the supplied conectors, the wires were soldered and sealed using heatshrink.
Where do you place the control units and how did you afix them?
The wiring and both of the control units were fed down behind the nearside headlight and the first module was positioned behind the nearside foglight grill, fastened to existing cabling with plastic cable ties, ready to connect the nearside DRL. The sticky pads probably wouldn't have lasted very long. The other module was fed behind the front grill/numberplate to the matching place behind the offside foglight grill. Darren removed the front numberplate and grill to make this easier. This second module was again cable-tied to the foglight wiring to hold it in place behind the grill. The two fuses for each side were positioned next to the control module for that side to make access to them simpler.
After running the wire through the bulkhead how did you connect it to the spare fuse in the fuse box?
This involved feeding the wire through the bulkhead from behind the battery into the dashboard below the glovebox area, behind the ashtray area and then up towards the fusebox. Darren did remove the sides of the centre console to make this easier. The connection to the fusebox involved adding a repair wire into the back of the fusebox into one the spare positions. I think it was fuse position 41 that is used ideally. I think we ended up using either position 40 or 43 from memory with a 15A fuse (Darren - can you confirm?)
This is an in-depth way of doing it (obviously left-hand drive)! Darren managed to get a new connection in the back of the fusebox without removing any trim (apart from the fusebox cover and the storage drawer below the headlight switch). He also managed it without having to take all the fuses out or sliding the release mechanism (sorry Darren if this wasn't the case!) The fusebox can just about be squeezed out once its back cover has been removed, so the new wire can be inserted.
Addition of extra circuits to the Volkswagen GolfPresumably you used some sort of protective covering for the wires as they look like they could easilly get damaged in their current form?
Where the soldered joints were, Darren used heat-shrink and/or tape to cover the wires. For the main loom, he just taped the wires together every few inches.
I hope that this is of some more help to you. Apologies to Darren if anything is wrong in the above.. Please feel free to correct me!
Please ask again about which bits need more detail. Anything more technical, I shall leave to Darren to explain!
All the best!
