Lovely Weimaraner! My young man - Mylo - seems to love water just as much it seems!
I think they're good shots - it's always difficult to get exactly what you want but by shooting in RAW you can make tweaks and adjustments to the exposure and other elements of the photo without it having already 'compressed' the information taken by the camera into a JPEG file.
I'm not sure what camera you're using? But if you're wanting to get the water splashing around but perfectly frozen you need a faster shutter speed. Before you go into a 'fully manual' mode you can just do this using something called 'shutter priority' or 'S' usually on the camera modes. All you're doing here is telling it how fast to open and close the shutter and the camera takes care of the rest for you. So the faster it opens and closes, the more 'action' you're going to freeze because it has less chance to move while the shutter is at it's fully open position. This also means that things will look sharper and more in focus as the shutter isn't open long enough for objects in the frame to move around and look blurred like in Pic 1 of the dog.
Try something like 1/1000th, 1/500th, 1/250th second in 'S' mode and shoot anything to see the difference. You'll notice at the faster speed (1/1000th) your photo will potentially look darker and more underexposed than the slower speeds... and as you make the shutter slower, you'll notice the photo is getting closer to being more correctly exposed. If it's a bright day, 1/1000th make look exposed correctly and therefore the slower you make the shutter, the more overexposed your photo will be. It's worth playing with and 'S' mode is a particular favourite of anyone shooting sports or action photos.
As an additional note... if you find a shutter speed that 'freezes' the action better but your photo is underexposed, then you may need to increase the ISO setting - which is the 'sensitivity' of the film, or sensor these days. ISO100 is the 'least sensitive' but therefore is the 'cleanest' in terms of quality - as you increase through 200, 400, 800 and 1600, it means the sensor is more sensitive to light, so you can get the shutter speed you need as well as correctly exposing the photo - but this comes at a cost of increased 'grain' in the photograph.
Probably a lot there to take in but figured it may be something to have a play with!! The very reason you see guys at sports events with HUGE lenses is purely because they need to freeze the action which means a fast shutter speed - but they don't want to compromise quality by using a high ISO - so they need to let as much light into the camera as possible in that very short shutter speed, hence the size of the lens (and the cost!!). It just allows them to get the shutter speed they require (and the distance too) even in lower light.
Although a little more 'advanced' - water is very reflective, especially when the sun is out and in this instance I'd be choosing to use a circular polarising filter, which so long as you use roughly 90degrees to the position of the sun will allow you to rotate it until it cuts down some of that reflected light, giving water a more translucent look and punching the clouds out in the sky a little more. Great fun when you get out with the camera! Roll on long summer nights and some nice clean cars! :D
And non-related shot but just Mylo having a wander...!!
