What did you and your MKV do today?

[pandaman]

Oil changed

[G-olf]

Decided enough of sagging headlining. Not today but recently I have had my headlining retrimmed along with pillars and the door cards. Went with lighter grey alcantara-like material to lighten up and refreshed the interior.







And then I figured since I had the doorcards off I should just replace/upgrade the speakers. Went for focal vw fit replacements front and back.



Yes it was all a bit of an indulgence and not strictly needed but felt like splashing out on it. Now it makes it a little trickier deciding which car to take out for the weekend spin.




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Did you do the headlining re-trim yourself? if not may I ask how much it cost? I've replaced mine for the sagging issue with a good one from a breakers yard but its happening again in exactly the same place. Its like the foam breaks down and separates rather than the glue failing. Thanks

[fakie1977]

Decided enough of sagging headlining. Not today but recently I have had my headlining retrimmed along with pillars and the door cards. Went with lighter grey alcantara-like material to lighten up and refreshed the interior.







And then I figured since I had the doorcards off I should just replace/upgrade the speakers. Went for focal vw fit replacements front and back.



Yes it was all a bit of an indulgence and not strictly needed but felt like splashing out on it. Now it makes it a little trickier deciding which car to take out for the weekend spin.




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Did you do the headlining re-trim yourself? if not may I ask how much it cost? I've replaced mine for the sagging issue with a good one from a breakers yard but its happening again in exactly the same place. Its like the foam breaks down and separates rather than the glue failing. Thanks

Whole job was done by seat repairer local to me (Middlesbrough). If it was just headlining and in similar fabric to original it was quoted at about £250. But I decided to upgrade to the suede material which was more expensive (£400) and then did all trim pillars (£150) and door cards (£200) at same time.


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[mjmallia]

I noticed at the weekend a vacuum leak at idle on the boost gauge, on checking the usual I decided to check the oil cap and the complete neck extension came off the cam cover with cap attached  heat cycles must have taken its toll on the joint. The cap is now directly on the cover, so looks a bit odd with the engine cover on  but I can live with it at the moment.

[OllieVRS]

Head gasket, piston ring wear and timing belt / chain stretch can all be causes of low compression across all cylinders. Presume you’ve ruled these out? Also checking  your tester isn’t faulty would be a good plan!

You were right, the tester was bad.  Mister second opinion measured 14 bar across all the whole bank, so back to the drawing board, but I'm relieved the engine isn't fooked.

I know I'm late to the party, but congrats Pudding! 

Makes me think maybe I should try with another tester, since mine measured at 145psi (10 bar). That was also measured before I changed the timing belt.

When the engine was turning over did the needle stay at the highest value it reached or did it drop back down as the piston went back down? I used my friend's old compression tester that did the latter, so I couldn't get a reading unless I looked at it while continuously turning over the engine. Interestingly his tester didn't have a pressure release valve.

EDIT: What brand of tester did you use? Looking at getting one myself without breaking the bank.

[fakie1977]

Tried to change the door lock to my driver’s door. Process was really easy by following lots of online videos.




The lock I purchased was a new one (albeit aftermarket one) but after swapping over found it didn’t work (wouldn’t even latch properly let alone lock) so returned it back.

So decided to buy a genuine lock as I can’t be bothered faffing about with it but got quoted £220 from VW. TPS wasn’t that much cheaper but found one online for only £70.

Unfortunately it’s not arriving in time as I have car booked for service and MOT tomorrow so ended up putting the old lock back on and putting the door back together.

But then, for some reason it’s all working now and unlocking and locking as it should!!! I cleaned up the lock before putting it back in (as I’m a bit OCD about that and it was easy with it completely off the car) so not sure if that’s what did it or not.

Anyway, happy result. I’ll probably keep the new lock anyway since it’s a cheap genuine one and likely I will need to swap it at some point in the future but if not I can easily sell it back on.

Celebrated by given it a wash before it gets seen to tomorrow. I checked and I’ve only done 750 miles since last years MOT. I need to get out and use it more!!!


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[Lewo]

Good news that the lock works 👍

[pudding]

Head gasket, piston ring wear and timing belt / chain stretch can all be causes of low compression across all cylinders. Presume you’ve ruled these out? Also checking  your tester isn’t faulty would be a good plan!

You were right, the tester was bad.  Mister second opinion measured 14 bar across all the whole bank, so back to the drawing board, but I'm relieved the engine isn't fooked.

I know I'm late to the party, but congrats Pudding! 

Makes me think maybe I should try with another tester, since mine measured at 145psi (10 bar). That was also measured before I changed the timing belt.

When the engine was turning over did the needle stay at the highest value it reached or did it drop back down as the piston went back down? I used my friend's old compression tester that did the latter, so I couldn't get a reading unless I looked at it while continuously turning over the engine. Interestingly his tester didn't have a pressure release valve.

EDIT: What brand of tester did you use? Looking at getting one myself without breaking the bank.

Cheers 

Yeah mine just stayed at the highest value until the pressure relief button was pressed. Another good sign is all 4 cylinders shot up to 14 bar within 3-4 cranks.  Some ageing engines can take several cranks to hit peak pressure, so it's all very encouraging mechanically.

Oh it was just one of the cheap generic kits from Amazon, take your pick    Mine was £17 and in a red box, I can't remember the brand!  It's a bit rubbish quality really, but it did it's job!

If you get one, see if you can find one with a rigid extension tube.  The gauges with a long rubber hose attached are a bit pants for recessed plugs.

[pudding]

I noticed at the weekend a vacuum leak at idle on the boost gauge, on checking the usual I decided to check the oil cap and the complete neck extension came off the cam cover with cap attached  heat cycles must have taken its toll on the joint. The cap is now directly on the cover, so looks a bit odd with the engine cover on  but I can live with it at the moment.

How bizarre! Are you the original owner of the car?  Just wondering if a previous owner fitted an intake and did the funnel removal mod? Takes quite a bit of force to twist it off apparently, so unusual that it's worked it's way loose like that.  Having said that, it does sometimes take a lot of force to break the oil cap seal from all the engine vacuum sucking it down hard, which might have broken it loose.

[pudding]

I had a tough decision to make this morning. Stay in bed watching YouTube in comfort with my ANC headphones on, or get my lazy arse up and do a job I've been putting off for years.  The fuel filter!  Anything that involves jacking the car up and removing wheels, I have as much enthusiasm for as painting a fence.

I forgot what a ball ache this job is, with the jack, handbrake cable and rear wheel etc getting in the way.

Not made any easier by someone in the past replacing the original torx screw with a bloody cross head   



I predicted my own fate 4 years ago when I last replaced it. "I'd better replace that screw now because it ain't coming out again" "Naaaaah, f'ck it". So yeah, it plum refused to budge didn't it 

So I sliced the bracket with a Stanley knife and cable tied it.  I guess the next filter change will be easier  It looks proper ghetto but it is actually pretty solid.  What is it with VAG putting fuel filters in stupid places where they get covered in dirt? Why not put it in the engine bay like diesels where it's easy to get at? 



So was it worth it?  Apparently not    I guess I've picked up clean fuel over the past 4 years/50K miles!  Oh well, it's done now   

It's worth doing them every couple of years anyway just to prevent the bundy fittings from seizing, and the built-in pressure regulator can sometimes fail as well.

[LC5F]

I predicted my own fate 4 years ago when I last replaced it. "I'd better replace that screw now because it ain't coming out again" "Naaaaah, f'ck it". So yeah, it plum refused to budge didn't it 

So I sliced the bracket with a Stanley knife and cable tied it.  I guess the next filter change will be easier  It looks proper ghetto but it is actually pretty solid.

Mine was the same - but I drilled the head off and un-screwed the screw stem with long nose vice grips.
Have you located the filter correctly? - the spike is meant to locate in a specific position.

The Mann filter comes with a cross-head screw -I opted to throw that away and use an Audi stainless T20 instead

[pudding]

I predicted my own fate 4 years ago when I last replaced it. "I'd better replace that screw now because it ain't coming out again" "Naaaaah, f'ck it". So yeah, it plum refused to budge didn't it 

So I sliced the bracket with a Stanley knife and cable tied it.  I guess the next filter change will be easier  It looks proper ghetto but it is actually pretty solid.

Mine was the same - but I drilled the head off and un-screwed the screw stem with long nose vice grips.
Have you located the filter correctly? - the spike is meant to locate in a specific position.

The Mann filter comes with a cross-head screw -I opted to throw that away and use an Audi stainless T20 instead

Ah yeah, good shout.  I didn't realise that. I just fitted it so that the fuel lines fell naturally into place and weren't kinked.

Looking at Pelican parts, the part of my bracket that aligns that stub is missing.  Snapped off by a previous owner/workshop quite clearly as it's never been there since I've owned it.  Mine is sitting more or less in that position regardless, so should be OK.  I can't see it servicing any purpose other than alignment of the fuel lines?

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Volkswagen_Golf_GTI_Mk_V/132-FUEL-Replacing_Your_Fuel_Filter/132-FUEL-Replacing_Your_Fuel_Filter.htm

[Octoparrot]

I always put a blob of grease on the head of the screw after I've changed my filter, been fine for the last 5 years.

[mjmallia]

How bizarre! Are you the original owner of the car?  Just wondering if a previous owner fitted an intake and did the funnel removal mod? Takes quite a bit of force to twist it off apparently, so unusual that it's worked it's way loose like that.  Having said that, it does sometimes take a lot of force to break the oil cap seal from all the engine vacuum sucking it down hard, which might have broken it loose.

Family car from new before I got it 5 years ago.....no intakes here. I had one for a short while, but did not like the Darth Vader noises  so back to standard and it has always firmly attached.

Heat cycles and maybe a stiff cap at times took its toll. I do oil changes every 3 to 4 months due to the short journeys.........who knows.

I was amazed how it all twisted off under the engine cover with a little tug to release completely when I took the cover off for access, like it just decided to just give up.

I did have the cambelt changed a few weeks ago, so maybe it took a knock then......no idea.

[ROH ECHT]

I predicted my own fate 4 years ago when I last replaced it. "I'd better replace that screw now because it ain't coming out again" "Naaaaah, f'ck it". So yeah, it plum refused to budge didn't it 

So I sliced the bracket with a Stanley knife and cable tied it.  I guess the next filter change will be easier  It looks proper ghetto but it is actually pretty solid.

Mine was the same - but I drilled the head off and un-screwed the screw stem with long nose vice grips.
Have you located the filter correctly? - the spike is meant to locate in a specific position.

The Mann filter comes with a cross-head screw -I opted to throw that away and use an Audi stainless T20 instead

Ah yeah, good shout.  I didn't realise that. I just fitted it so that the fuel lines fell naturally into place and weren't kinked.

Looking at Pelican parts, the part of my bracket that aligns that stub is missing.  Snapped off by a previous owner/workshop quite clearly as it's never been there since I've owned it.  Mine is sitting more or less in that position regardless, so should be OK.  I can't see it servicing any purpose other than alignment of the fuel lines?

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Volkswagen_Golf_GTI_Mk_V/132-FUEL-Replacing_Your_Fuel_Filter/132-FUEL-Replacing_Your_Fuel_Filter.htm

I do not have the rust issue as much here, plus I never drive it on wet roads anymore. But all this makes me think to climb under it and remove the screw. Head down to the hardware store and by a replacement stainless screw. Because I too, while reading Pudding's post, was thinking the screw should be stainless.

Pudding, correct...the purpose of the pin is only a guide so the hoses/tubes are not crossed.

For anyone; The simple way for me to remember is the tube with the rear blue clip is the tube returning fuel to the tank. With that, I can remember the fuel enters and surrounds the outer surface of the filter element and exits at the center...either going forward or returned to the tank.

I may have too much time on my hands, so I did this: