What did you and your MKV do today?

[pudding]

I predicted my own fate 4 years ago when I last replaced it. "I'd better replace that screw now because it ain't coming out again" "Naaaaah, f'ck it". So yeah, it plum refused to budge didn't it 

So I sliced the bracket with a Stanley knife and cable tied it.  I guess the next filter change will be easier  It looks proper ghetto but it is actually pretty solid.

Mine was the same - but I drilled the head off and un-screwed the screw stem with long nose vice grips.
Have you located the filter correctly? - the spike is meant to locate in a specific position.

The Mann filter comes with a cross-head screw -I opted to throw that away and use an Audi stainless T20 instead

Ah yeah, good shout.  I didn't realise that. I just fitted it so that the fuel lines fell naturally into place and weren't kinked.

Looking at Pelican parts, the part of my bracket that aligns that stub is missing.  Snapped off by a previous owner/workshop quite clearly as it's never been there since I've owned it.  Mine is sitting more or less in that position regardless, so should be OK.  I can't see it servicing any purpose other than alignment of the fuel lines?

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Volkswagen_Golf_GTI_Mk_V/132-FUEL-Replacing_Your_Fuel_Filter/132-FUEL-Replacing_Your_Fuel_Filter.htm

I do not have the rust issue as much here, plus I never drive it on wet roads anymore. But all this makes me think to climb under it and remove the screw. Head down to the hardware store and by a replacement stainless screw. Because I too, while reading Pudding's post, was thinking the screw should be stainless.

Pudding, correct...the purpose of the pin is only a guide so the hoses/tubes are not crossed.

For anyone; The simple way for me to remember is the tube with the rear blue clip is the tube returning fuel to the tank. With that, I can remember the fuel enters and surrounds the outer surface of the filter element and exits at the center...either going forward or returned to the tank.

I may have too much time on my hands, so I did this:

Thanks for the confirmation on that stub thing.

Since changing the filter, I'm now getting tip-in flat spots.  It never bloody ends does it    Other areas of the rev range are much better though, so maybe the new filter has revealed a weak/dying lift pump.  It's just when giving the throttle a stab at low revs with medium/high load.  The throttle pedal turns into a bath sponge momentarily and then picks up again.

[ROH ECHT]

.....so maybe the new filter has revealed a weak/dying lift pump.

Possibly...but who knows with these things. As you said...it never ends 
I imagine you've already looked at the LPFP's "load %" at idle?

[pudding]

.....so maybe the new filter has revealed a weak/dying lift pump.

Possibly...but who knows with these things. As you said...it never ends 
I imagine you've already looked at the LPFP's "load %" at idle?

Yeah all looks normal and never any fault codes. I’m almost certain it’s injectors but I’m in denial as it’s now almost a £1500 job on K04 engines with a walnut blast. The clues are there…..flat spots, intermittent drop outs at idle and high lambda activity around idle/low throttle. Just annoying that I have to do them a second time. The price of doing a lot of miles I guess!

[ttelracs]

I fitted one of these, didn't take too long, 20 mins or so.
Spent more time connecting the mobile and playing with the settings.  Still don't know exactly which model it is but it boots up with VW navigation logo, has sat nav, bluetooth and can power a sub. £70 delivered from bay or E.

The guy I go it from bought it to fit into his T5 but it didn't fit and came supplied with all the wiring, adaptor harness, GPS module, microphone and two additional external USB ports.  It can also take a reversing camera and power screens to fit to the back of the headrests.
I'm very happy.

[GreigC]

My GTI always had this rusty door trim strip… the only rust on the car. I took the door skin off today and replaced it. Bit of a faff with window seals but some liquid soap and taking my time it was sorted.

[Numero9]

My GTI always had this rusty door trim strip… the only rust on the car. I took the door skin off today and replaced it. Bit of a faff with window seals but some liquid soap and taking my time it was sorted.

where did you get these from? one of mine is rusty too.

Any tips/guides on how best to replace it?

[rich83]

I really need to do them on mine too along with the b pillars

[GreigC]

I sourced it from a car being broken. You can still buy these new from the dealer around £45. But you must check it’s the correct finish for the GTI. (Piano)

Remove the door handle
Remove the door skin
Unbolt the trim mentioned (two bolts)
Slide it down slowly (helps using warm soapy water)
Then just redo in the reverse.
It’s awkward sliding it back into position and you must be very careful the angle you have the glass. 

The worst part in this job was the door handle the part inside can spring out and fall apart and can be difficult to figure out how to re assemble - lucky I took pictures as I went.

[ROH ECHT]

Not today, it is Friday, but earlier this week on Monday a new Hitachi MAF sensor arrived.
I went with the Hitachi off Amazon for $113 usd cost, versus the $240 to $300 for genuine VAG...which Bosch and/or Hitachi supply. This Hitachi (UK) had the VAG logo and number on it but were scratched off.
 
Nearly all hardware has been replaced on mine over the past two years and still the mpg is tough keeping it above 26 mpg. So I planned to replace the MAF first, then the B1S1 O2 sensor.
The MAF arrived Monday and since then its mpg has gone up two mpg, from 26.8 to 28.8 mpg. Driving to the same spots in the same manner. Last time I reset the 'MFD/2' was in May. So its mpg average is increasing rather quickly. Still considering the new O2 (even though it passes the readiness test) for it having been dealing with oil, first from the condition it was in prior to the 2016 engine rebuild, but also from the K04 turbo I replaced in 2021.

[pudding]

Not today, it is Friday, but earlier this week on Monday a new Hitachi MAF sensor arrived.
I went with the Hitachi off Amazon for $113 usd cost, versus the $240 to $300 for genuine VAG...which Bosch and/or Hitachi supply. This Hitachi (UK) had the VAG logo and number on it but were scratched off.
 
Nearly all hardware has been replaced on mine over the past two years and still the mpg is tough keeping it above 26 mpg. So I planned to replace the MAF first, then the B1S1 O2 sensor.
The MAF arrived Monday and since then its mpg has gone up two mpg, from 26.8 to 28.8 mpg. Driving to the same spots in the same manner. Last time I reset the 'MFD/1' was in May. So its mpg average is increasing rather quickly. Still considering the new O2 (even though it passes the readiness test) for it having been dealing with oil, first from the condition it was in prior to the 2016 engine rebuild, but also from the K04 turbo I replaced in 2021.

Yeah the genuine MAFs are made in the UK now for some reason, so that's some reassurance you got a proper one.

26mpg isn't unusual for a K04 if you're in boost quite a lot.  Mine averages 34mpg on my daily 40 mile commute, which is a mixture of 30-40mph granny trundling and 80-90mph freeway blasting.

Genuine 02s are like £200+ now, but you can get a Bosch aftermarket one for half that though.  It's not as good. No gold pins in the plug compared to OEM and the harness isn't quite as good quality but it works 

[ROH ECHT]

Not today, it is Friday, but earlier this week on Monday a new Hitachi MAF sensor arrived.
I went with the Hitachi off Amazon for $113 usd cost, versus the $240 to $300 for genuine VAG...which Bosch and/or Hitachi supply. This Hitachi (UK) had the VAG logo and number on it but were scratched off.
 
Nearly all hardware has been replaced on mine over the past two years and still the mpg is tough keeping it above 26 mpg. So I planned to replace the MAF first, then the B1S1 O2 sensor.
The MAF arrived Monday and since then its mpg has gone up two mpg, from 26.8 to 28.8 mpg. Driving to the same spots in the same manner. Last time I reset the 'MFD/1' was in May. So its mpg average is increasing rather quickly. Still considering the new O2 (even though it passes the readiness test) for it having been dealing with oil, first from the condition it was in prior to the 2016 engine rebuild, but also from the K04 turbo I replaced in 2021.

Yeah the genuine MAFs are made in the UK now for some reason, so that's some reassurance you got a proper one.

26mpg isn't unusual for a K04 if you're in boost quite a lot.  Mine averages 34mpg on my daily 40 mile commute, which is a mixture of 30-40mph granny trundling and 80-90mph freeway blasting.

Genuine 02s are like £200+ now, but you can get a Bosch aftermarket one for half that though.  It's not as good. No gold pins in the plug compared to OEM and the harness isn't quite as good quality but it works 

Thanks for the O2 info. Yeah, I will probably again stick with genuine OE for the O2.

I live in a small town with no stores. So my trips into the nearest city is just three to eight miles from one side to the other. So I am only cruising at Hwy speed for the first three miles before hitting the traffic lights and making my stops. I was surprised of the mileage bump for only having driven three times into the city. Thanks again. 

[fakie1977]

Not today, it is Friday, but earlier this week on Monday a new Hitachi MAF sensor arrived.
I went with the Hitachi off Amazon for $113 usd cost, versus the $240 to $300 for genuine VAG...which Bosch and/or Hitachi supply. This Hitachi (UK) had the VAG logo and number on it but were scratched off.
 
Nearly all hardware has been replaced on mine over the past two years and still the mpg is tough keeping it above 26 mpg. So I planned to replace the MAF first, then the B1S1 O2 sensor.
The MAF arrived Monday and since then its mpg has gone up two mpg, from 26.8 to 28.8 mpg. Driving to the same spots in the same manner. Last time I reset the 'MFD/1' was in May. So its mpg average is increasing rather quickly. Still considering the new O2 (even though it passes the readiness test) for it having been dealing with oil, first from the condition it was in prior to the 2016 engine rebuild, but also from the K04 turbo I replaced in 2021.

Yeah the genuine MAFs are made in the UK now for some reason, so that's some reassurance you got a proper one.

26mpg isn't unusual for a K04 if you're in boost quite a lot.  Mine averages 34mpg on my daily 40 mile commute, which is a mixture of 30-40mph granny trundling and 80-90mph freeway blasting.

Genuine 02s are like £200+ now, but you can get a Bosch aftermarket one for half that though.  It's not as good. No gold pins in the plug compared to OEM and the harness isn't quite as good quality but it works 

Aren’t you based in the US? If so isn’t your fuel consumption about right based on fact your US gallon is smaller than UK gallon (therefore you would cover less miles)?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ttelracs]

I read a post on here from years back about losing boost pressure and the quick fix was to replace the seals so I did this in the week.  Two things I noticed, a lot less oil in the intercooler and hoses than I was expecting and the hoses themselves slid out all too easily without needing any real effort.

I wanted to replace three seals, the two on hose connecting to the inlet of the intercooler and the one from the intercooler to the throttle body but the final one is a different seal to the first two so I left it.  But although I replaced them and there was an improvement, they still didn't feel really snug and were still relatively easy to pull out.  I did remember in the post @Pudding mentioning the inside of female end of the fittings wear through engine rocking and mine has had many, many miles with weak engine mounts.

After giving it a lot of thought, the best solution is to replace the hoses and the relevant pipe they connect to but being a cheapskate and looking for a temporary solution, I removed and cleaned the bayonet metal parts of the hoses and were they seat.  I then used a thin strip of duck tape to 'pad' out the groove that the seal sits in, then applied a small amount of clean oil to help it ease without damaging the seal.  This solution was so much better and allowed just enough resistance when sliding back in.  This time it was a good snug fit and needed a little force to have it seat fully before replacing the clips.  I also noticed how soft the hoses are too which reinforced the need to replace at some point.

Although there was a slight improvement in pick up before, I'm expecting a bigger difference this time.  I will revisit this at some point in the future with the view to replacing but will need to wait a few months for business to be able to justify the spend.  No pics this time as it is as simple as jacking up the car, putting axle stands in place and using a flat blade screwdriver to prise out the clip.  Either take a photo or make a note of how the clips are located to make putting back easier. 30 mins in total if you take your time, use engine cleaner or carburettor cleaner to clean the hoses and the metal parts before replacing.

I think long term I'll look to replace the intercooler with an S3 option and then replace the hoses without the metal clips but with jubilee ones instead.

 

[pudding]

Not today, it is Friday, but earlier this week on Monday a new Hitachi MAF sensor arrived.
I went with the Hitachi off Amazon for $113 usd cost, versus the $240 to $300 for genuine VAG...which Bosch and/or Hitachi supply. This Hitachi (UK) had the VAG logo and number on it but were scratched off.
 
Nearly all hardware has been replaced on mine over the past two years and still the mpg is tough keeping it above 26 mpg. So I planned to replace the MAF first, then the B1S1 O2 sensor.
The MAF arrived Monday and since then its mpg has gone up two mpg, from 26.8 to 28.8 mpg. Driving to the same spots in the same manner. Last time I reset the 'MFD/1' was in May. So its mpg average is increasing rather quickly. Still considering the new O2 (even though it passes the readiness test) for it having been dealing with oil, first from the condition it was in prior to the 2016 engine rebuild, but also from the K04 turbo I replaced in 2021.

Yeah the genuine MAFs are made in the UK now for some reason, so that's some reassurance you got a proper one.

26mpg isn't unusual for a K04 if you're in boost quite a lot.  Mine averages 34mpg on my daily 40 mile commute, which is a mixture of 30-40mph granny trundling and 80-90mph freeway blasting.

Genuine 02s are like £200+ now, but you can get a Bosch aftermarket one for half that though.  It's not as good. No gold pins in the plug compared to OEM and the harness isn't quite as good quality but it works 

Aren’t you based in the US? If so isn’t your fuel consumption about right based on fact your US gallon is smaller than UK gallon (therefore you would cover less miles)?

ROH ECT is but that is a good point, 3.78 litre US gallon vs 4.54 litre UK gallon 

[pudding]

I read a post on here from years back about losing boost pressure and the quick fix was to replace the seals so I did this in the week.  Two things I noticed, a lot less oil in the intercooler and hoses than I was expecting and the hoses themselves slid out all too easily without needing any real effort.

I wanted to replace three seals, the two on hose connecting to the inlet of the intercooler and the one from the intercooler to the throttle body but the final one is a different seal to the first two so I left it.  But although I replaced them and there was an improvement, they still didn't feel really snug and were still relatively easy to pull out.  I did remember in the post @Pudding mentioning the inside of female end of the fittings wear through engine rocking and mine has had many, many miles with weak engine mounts.

After giving it a lot of thought, the best solution is to replace the hoses and the relevant pipe they connect to but being a cheapskate and looking for a temporary solution, I removed and cleaned the bayonet metal parts of the hoses and were they seat.  I then used a thin strip of duck tape to 'pad' out the groove that the seal sits in, then applied a small amount of clean oil to help it ease without damaging the seal.  This solution was so much better and allowed just enough resistance when sliding back in.  This time it was a good snug fit and needed a little force to have it seat fully before replacing the clips.  I also noticed how soft the hoses are too which reinforced the need to replace at some point.

Although there was a slight improvement in pick up before, I'm expecting a bigger difference this time.  I will revisit this at some point in the future with the view to replacing but will need to wait a few months for business to be able to justify the spend.  No pics this time as it is as simple as jacking up the car, putting axle stands in place and using a flat blade screwdriver to prise out the clip.  Either take a photo or make a note of how the clips are located to make putting back easier. 30 mins in total if you take your time, use engine cleaner or carburettor cleaner to clean the hoses and the metal parts before replacing.

I think long term I'll look to replace the intercooler with an S3 option and then replace the hoses without the metal clips but with jubilee ones instead.

I forgot to mention, on mine the bayonet clip had also worn thin where it clips into the pipe, meaning the engine movement exacerbated the O ring/pipe wear even more! I wish I'd taken a picture of it now, but imagine said bayonet clip filed down where it clips in. There was approx 5mm of movement at the joint pulling it by hand, imagine doing that 100s of times, which is what happens when driving. When that pipe is functioning as it's supposed to, there should be barely any movement in that joint at all.

In the long term, you could chop off the bayonet section of the metal pipe and have someone weld on a standard rolled edge section of 2.5" pipe.  If you then go S3/6R, you can chop off the bayonets from the rubber hose and just use regular clamps.  Should cost a welder no more than £50 in time to do that.

In the end I just got a replacement metal pipe off ebay, which came with the rubber hose as well, for like, 20 quid.  That's been air tight ever since. 

Anyway, instead of the duct tape, I would suggest a small thickness O ring as the boost pressure might start trying to peel the tape off over time.  Keep an eye on it.