What did you and your MKV do today?

[lazy]

Wheels arrived yesterday so I've fitted them and painted the inscriptions on them. Tires are Vredestein Ultrac Vorti+ 225/40/R18 and the rims themselves are TEC Speedwheels GT Evo 18x8 ET45. The front sits perfectly flush but the rear needs a 5mm spacer. I chose not to get different sizes so I can swap the fronts with the rears when needed.

I honestly cant decide whether I like it with or without the painted inscriptions..

Nice wheels.
Have you decided are you keeping the tyres painted.

[ZoliWorks]

Nice wheels.
Have you decided are you keeping the tyres painted.

Yep, went with painted tires and oem center caps. They didn't sit flush so I had to sand them. Caps are 65mm and the hole for them is 64mm.

I'll probably get new tires next year. These dont seem to be very grippy. They sound like winter tires. No squeaking at all and no traction till 3rd gear. I test fitted some other wheels with tires that I dont remember the brand of but they were much more grippy..

[ZoliWorks]

102k, MOT pass with no advisories 

Also had the following done

• Minor Service
• Fuel filter - looks like it had never been changed from the history
• Pollen Filter
• Rear pads
• New coolant expansion tank - integral sensors were giving dash errors over winter

Now the odd part..I had asked for a brake fluid change, but apparently the bleed nipple on the rear discs were seized, and they can easily break which would mean new calipers, so they were not keen to progress. I said, ok leave it for now, I will look into that.
So, my Qs are

• Doesn't having rear pads changed require a bleed?
• Are they correct on the possible/probable bleed nipples breaking and needing new calipers if so?
• Is there a way to free them up?
• How much approx. are new rear calipers fitted?

TIA 

• Changing pads doesn't require bleeding since you aren't opening the brake fluid circuit. You simply push the pistons back in with a caliper press (or 2 wrenches). The fluid gets pumped back into the reservoir.
• They can break and if they do, removing them is close to impossible.
• Soak it with WD40 for some time. Dont use heat because you can boil the brake liquid eventually and it's also not good for the inner seals.
• I had both of my rears replaced with brand new TRW parts for about 80 euros each. Mk5 rear calipers have the tendency to seize up overtime. Especially if left sitting for a long time.

[GeeTeeEye]

replaced the battery with a Bosch S5008. Which weirdly enough stopped my drivers window squeaking when buzzed all the way open. Used a load of silicone lube on it and that didn't make a difference, but new battery = no squeak  :shrug:

[lazy]

Nice wheels.
Have you decided are you keeping the tyres painted.

Yep, went with painted tires and oem center caps. They didn't sit flush so I had to sand them. Caps are 65mm and the hole for them is 64mm.

I'll probably get new tires next year. These dont seem to be very grippy. They sound like winter tires. No squeaking at all and no traction till 3rd gear. I test fitted some other wheels with tires that I dont remember the brand of but they were much more grippy..

Looks good adds a bit of detail.
Pity you can't remember what tyres you tried. They're not easiest or cheapest things to keep changing until you find ones you like.

[lazy]

replaced the battery with a Bosch S5008. Which weirdly enough stopped my drivers window squeaking when buzzed all the way open. Used a load of silicone lube on it and that didn't make a difference, but new battery = no squeak  :shrug:

It's amazing what doing something completely unconnected to something else can do 

[GeeTeeEye]

It's amazing what doing something completely unconnected to something else can do 

lol yeah it blew my tiny little mind 

[skkane]

Changed the oil today.

[ZoliWorks]

So my radiator fan blew out out of nowhere  I thought I sent a piston to check the outside temps but glad that wasn't the case. The force of the fan exploding was large enough that bits went through the engine cover underneath and they also dented my hood. Buddy of mine had a few fans laying around so I found a working one and replaced it. New would have cost about 100 euros so giving him a beer for it is a pretty good deal if you ask me.





While at it, I've also installed a bigger intercooler. I've had to trim the radiator support for the AC radiator to fit since it sticks stick 2cm further out. The intercooler is a Ta-Technix bar and plate cooler with a core size of 595mm x 400mm x 56mm. It's almost twice as thick as the stock cooler.









I ended up buying a used AC rad and trimming the frame based on that cause I didn't want to take mine off. It's a lot easier to slot the cooler and rad in when they are off the car. The quick connect adapter they include with this kit is for the newer gen, ea888 engines, which use a smaller diameter turbo outlet pipe. I've ended up cutting the quick connector housing off of my aliexpress chargepipe and using the quick connector and a piece of my old intercooler pipes as a bridge between the 2. Yes I could have welded the quick connector into the housing, but I cant weld aluminium 

Now as for how well it works... well here are the graphs. The first pic is with the stock GTI cooler and the 2nd pic is with the Ta Cooler. Both runs were done on the same patch of road, both runs start after a 140kph cruise lasting 5 minutes and both runs start from 50kph. The first run ends at 200 on the clock, the 2nd ends at 240 on the clock. During the stock cooler run, outside temps were 12 degrees Celsius and during the upgraded cooler run, they were 15 degrees. Not only did the temperatures barely move but I've also decreased my wastegate duty cycle. I'm not sure if this is due to my stock cooler leaking or cause of the new cooler cooling better but safe to say I dont regret it one bit.

[mjmallia]

The old girl had cancer (aka rust) flagged on a recent MOT. It appeared to be a small crusty hole that was not visible (red circle), due to the VW underseal looking perfect and a few suspect looking patches near the plastic skirt adapter



Took it to a friend that is a professional welder/fabricator, and it was worse than expecting.  Its a mazing how well the VW underseal disguises rust, and shocked us both



Had it cut out and replaced. Underseal etc applied.  Thankfully it di not go higher than where the side skirt would mount, so no need to paint/blend in.




But had to buy a new side skirt adapter, as the original one disintegrated on removal (20 year old plastic)



Just glad it got sorted before winter kicks in and made it worse.

[MeepeR0802]

Hello guys! I'm new here, sorry! can anyone tell me the latest revision/number of the two valves on my turbo. 06f906283f and 06F145710G. Engine code AXX . Thanks

[pudding]

The old girl had cancer (aka rust) flagged on a recent MOT. It appeared to be a small crusty hole that was not visible (red circle), due to the VW underseal looking perfect and a few suspect looking patches near the plastic skirt adapter



Took it to a friend that is a professional welder/fabricator, and it was worse than expecting.  Its a mazing how well the VW underseal disguises rust, and shocked us both



Had it cut out and replaced. Underseal etc applied.  Thankfully it di not go higher than where the side skirt would mount, so no need to paint/blend in.




But had to buy a new side skirt adapter, as the original one disintegrated on removal (20 year old plastic)



Just glad it got sorted before winter kicks in and made it worse.

That is sadly the way a lot of MK5s are going now.  They are at the 'restoration' age now and is why I got rid of mine as I don't have the time or inclination, but kudos to you for keeping on top of it 

I have a suspicion a lot of that rust underneath the rubberised coating starts at the factory.  Steel pressings not properly prepared before coating.  The MK5 always was criticised for it's build quality compared to the MK4 as VW wanted to reduce build costs in the mid 2000s.

[mjmallia]

Thanks. Glad it was sorted before the winter.

It appears to have been all caused by the skirt adapter allowing water to pool and as you say.......possible quality issues.

Otherwise all appears to be solid elsewhere, but have also been neutralising the rust and undersealing everywhere over the summer. I only do about 3k miles a year these days with working more from home, so a long term keeper for now