Opinions on Zymol

[Msportman]

Hi

Been using Glasure wax from Zymol for some time having used their normal carbon wax kits.

What do others think of Zymol?

I've always thought it gives a nice result but not knowing much about detailing I was wondering how it compares with other products.

Ian

[autoperfection.com]

Hi Ian,

Zymol waxes are good waxes, however, they're very hard to use compared to other waxes in our experience and there are waxes out there that can achieve the same results and are easier to use, for less money.

Having said that, Zymol, like Swissvax, are at the top of their game and are one of the longest standing manufacturers.

Just our opinion 

Taryn and Jim

[Msportman]

Hi Ian,

Zymol waxes are good waxes, however, they're very hard to use compared to other waxes in our experience and there are waxes out there that can achieve the same results and are easier to use, for less money.

Having said that, Zymol, like Swissvax, are at the top of their game and are one of the longest standing manufacturers.

Just our opinion 

Taryn and Jim


Thanks

In what respect do you mean they are hard to use?

Do you think they resist stone chips on the front end and do you recommend a best approach to apllication of Zymol?

I have pre waxed and applied several coats but it can smear if you put a load on....I'm trying to sop the chips on my black paintwork.

Ian 

[autoperfection.com]

We've found that they're sometimes harder to apply and buff off compared to other waxes we've experienced.

I don't think there is any wax out there that will resist stone chips, and with regards to application of Zymol - we've found it best to work on a panel at a time, leaving the wax for a couple of minutes and then buffing off.  This may not work the best for everyone, but we have found this to work well for us when using Zymol.

The smearing is caused by the oils and solvents in the wax not having enough time to evaporate properly if you apply it too thickly.  This can be minimised by applying a much thinner layer and allowing more time between coats.

As previously mentioned, whilst the wax will offer a high level of protection against the elements, we don't know of any wax that will stop stone chips - to prevent these you'd probably have to look at some sort of paint sheild.

 

[Msportman]

I found using Zymol on my previous MKIV from nearly new protected the front end reasonably well especially the bonnet.
Being black I wonder whether it is possible to have a black primar applied before painting?

I suppose my lower splitter will need re painting every so often.

On the wheel front my Pescara's were in need of attention. I initially used Wonder Wheels....it is OK but I've had to use Autosol on some stuborn areas. Any recommendations on this front?

I have given them a brief spray of Autoglym wheel wax.

Ian

[autoperfection.com]

Having the lower splitter resprayed every so often is enevitable really, if you want to keep it stone-chip-free 

With regards to the wheels - Bilberry Wheel Cleaner is the best we've found.  It's acid free and completely safe, so doesn't strip any products that have already been applied.  If there are some more stubborn spots, claying them will help to remove any tar spots and etched in brake dust.

In terms of protection for them, Rimwax is an excellent product - it's resistant against high heat levels, repells brake dust, tar and road film and gives a really wet-look to the wheels

Hope this helps

 

[Msportman]

Thanks for that.

Is claying easy to do? How does it work ? I assume it's not a polish and cloth method?

I will try the Bilberry next...where's best to order this from and what clay products are best value and easy to use/

What's this Dodo Juice product all about?

I use Zymol Autobathe or the Halfords Zymol car wash and leather chamois at £ 7.99! Would you use a better alternative to stop the swirls....I'd love a detail job or assessment by an expert TBH. 

[autoperfection.com]

Hi Ian,

Yes, you're right - claying isn't a polish and cloth method... you use a clay bar with some lube to remove all of the contaminants and tar spots on both the wheels and the body work.  You can get different grades of clay, ranging from super fine / gentle to quite aggressive, depending on how bad the contamination is.  We wouldn't really recommend using an aggressive clay though, unless the process is going to be followed with a machining stage, as it can quite often cause marring in the paint that the machining would remove.

I've sent you a PM about the Bilberry and other products

And on one final note - you have to get rid of the chamois!! 

[Msportman]

I look forward to your PM....on the chamois front what's the alternative....send it in your PM.

I assume the clay bar is a square item.....could be difficult getting on to my Pescara wheels.

Ian 

[autoperfection.com]

PM should be in your Inbox - let me know if you don't have it and I'll resend 

The clay does come in a square block, but you brake a piece off and mold it in your hand before using it, so you can use a small piece and mold it into a sort of circular shape in order to help get into the wheels a bit better

[Msportman]

PM should be in your Inbox - let me know if you don't have it and I'll resend 

The clay does come in a square block, but you brake a piece off and mold it in your hand before using it, so you can use a small piece and mold it into a sort of circular shape in order to help get into the wheels a bit better

No PM yet....don't seem to have an inbox??

Ian

[autoperfection.com]

Oh  Maybe you have to make more posts before you can read PMs... I thought it was 10? 

[Greeners]

Oh  Maybe you have to make more posts before you can read PMs... I thought it was 10? 

It's been increased to 25 

Not many posts to go! 

[Msportman]

Thanks for that...better get a few more posts up.

Ian

[autoperfection.com]

Everyone's got fancy new signatures!  VC has obviously been very busy!