Best way to wash / detail the car

[brough74]

After browsing on here and other forums is this the best way to detail a car or not ? Open to suggestions

CLEAN WHEELS   
TYRES AND ARCHES CLEANED & DOOR SHUTS ETC
RINSE not pressure washing
BLISS TFR LEAVE FOR 5 MINS
RINSE PW
SNOW FOAM LEAVE FOR 20 MINS
RINSE PW
WASH CAR WITH LAMBS WOOL MIT
RINSE PW
IRON X
RINSE PW
SNOWFOAM
RINSE PW
CLAY
SNOW FOAM
RINSE PW
DRY

POLISH
SEAL PAINT
POLISH EXHAUST TIPS
CLEAN EXTERIOR PLASTIC

[ianv5]

Think their might be a bit too much Snow foam action going on!

[vRS Carl]

No need to snow foam so many times

Here is an example of what process i normally use.

Rinsed with Pressure Washer
AF Citrus Power to remove/loosen traffic film & bugs etc
PW Rinse
Wheels cleaned with Bilberry wheel cleaner, Daytona Speedmaster & Small Brushes
Snowfoamed with CG No Touch and left to dwell for 20-30mins
Whilst foam is dwelling - Door shuts, fuel cap, logos and intricate places all agitated with small detailing brush and Poor Boys APC
Engine bay cleaned with APC & dressed with 303 Aerospace Protectant
PW Rinse
Snowfoamed
Immediately washed using 2BM, AF Lather and Sheepskin Shop Lambswool mitt for all major panels, Megs Microfibre wash mitt for lower panels and bumpers
Rinsed
Tardis applied on any tar
Clayed using Washshop Clay & FK425 as Lube. Also used Megs Smooth surface kit
Rinsed
Dried using ultra plush drying towel
Taped up
Polished using DAS6-Pro & Menzerna Polishes
Exhausts cleaned with Autosol
Sealed with 1 Coat of GTechniq C2
Glazed with 2 Coats of GTechniq C1.5
Glass sealed with Nanolex Ultra
Tyres dressed.

[ianv5]

Once you have detailed your car you will find that the next time you come to Snowfoam it will not dwell for very long,in my experience no longer than 5 mins. Perhaps a good indicator that you have decent protection on the car?

[vRS Carl]

You shouldn't be using the foam on a clean/not very dirty car. It's designed to loosen dirt that has gone through numerous wet/drying cycles and should cling to that. As it falls off it pulls any large/not very well bonded bits with it.

But there is no harm in doing so and i do use it most times i clean my car (although it does get quite dirty quickly here) and if the car is fairly clean it will dwell about 10mins max before it looks like a fine layer of soapy water on the car.

[simonp]

http://sniffpetrol.com/2007/08/13/car-geek-details-dirty-dishes/

[vRS Carl]

http://sniffpetrol.com/2007/08/13/car-geek-details-dirty-dishes/

You been spying on me 

[GINGER224]

No need to snow foam so many times

Here is an example of what process i normally use.

Rinsed with Pressure Washer
AF Citrus Power to remove/loosen traffic film & bugs etc
PW Rinse
Wheels cleaned with Bilberry wheel cleaner, Daytona Speedmaster & Small Brushes
Snowfoamed with CG No Touch and left to dwell for 20-30mins
Whilst foam is dwelling - Door shuts, fuel cap, logos and intricate places all agitated with small detailing brush and Poor Boys APC


Engine bay cleaned with APC & dressed with 303 Aerospace Protectant
PW Rinse
Snowfoamed
Immediately washed using 2BM, AF Lather and Sheepskin Shop Lambswool mitt for all major panels, Megs Microfibre wash mitt for lower panels and bumpers
Rinsed
Tardis applied on any tar
Clayed using Washshop Clay & FK425 as Lube. Also used Megs Smooth surface kit
Rinsed
Dried using ultra plush drying towel
Taped up
Polished using DAS6-Pro & Menzerna Polishes
Exhausts cleaned with Autosol
Sealed with 1 Coat of GTechniq C2
Glazed with 2 Coats of GTechniq C1.5
Glass sealed with Nanolex Ultra
Tyres dressed.

I thought your meant to glaze before you seal/wax??? Or is g tech stuff different?

[Deako]

You should. As an oil based glaze should only be used directly on bare paint. An acrylic glaze can be used after a sealant, but will just wash off. If you were at a show and wanted your paint to look wetter, you can leave it glazed. But after that, you should either seal/wax over an acrylic glaze. Leaving a glaze as you LSP is pointless IMO. Unless you just want to take tarty photos of how glossy your paint looks.

[vRS Carl]

You should. As an oil based glaze should only be used directly on bare paint. An acrylic glaze can be used after a sealant, but will just wash off. If you were at a show and wanted your paint to look wetter, you can leave it glazed. But after that, you should either seal/wax over an acrylic glaze. Leaving a glaze as you LSP is pointless IMO. Unless you just want to take tarty photos of how glossy your paint looks.

Firstly GTechniq C1.5 is not an Oil based glaze. C1.5 can also be used to seal your paint. Same as you can with C1 & C2.

C1 will give around a years worth of protection
C2 will give around 8 months of protection
C1.5 will give around 6 months of protection

The reason i used C2 first as that gave the most amount of protection. Then layering 2 layers of C1.5 over the top just adds gloss to it. If you look at the labels on C1.5 and C2 they say they can be layered over the top of other waxes/sealants. So although i have called it a glaze it isn't a glaze per se

My understanding of the process is you always seal the paint first as this locks in the polishing you have done by Machine/Hand. You then add a wax for durability and a glaze for Gloss.

Another example is Wet Glaze 2.0

This specifically states that you can Seal, Wax, Glaze, Wax, Glaze as it doesn't contain any cleaners it is purely a gloss enhancer.