Hurdy's Golf .:R.

[Hurdy]

It does pal but if memory serves me correct only by 10mm what is the standard offset on the R and what offset are you running on the TD's

Standard on the R is ET50 with an 8" alloy. I'm running ET45 with an 8" alloy. If the alloy hubs push the wheels out 10mm, that would mean my offset would be the equivalent of ET35, which would most likely rub!

[Top Cat]

It does pal but if memory serves me correct only by 10mm what is the standard offset on the R and what offset are you running on the TD's

Standard on the R is ET50 with an 8" alloy. I'm running ET45 with an 8" alloy. If the alloy hubs push the wheels out 10mm, that would mean my offset would be the equivalent of ET35, which would most likely rub!

Not with stiffer springs and more camber. 

[s3kel]

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=473806789327130&set=a.159939344047211.26960.156342304406915&type=1&theater

[danishmkvgti]

Sy none of the vw's have alloy arms pal it's a scandal. The only thing anywhere near is the rocco with alloy rear hubs. You want to go for the TT alloy front hubs aswell while you're on John, may aswell, lot less unsprung weight and the centre of gravity sits correctly as the ball joint is in the correct position by doing this. It's out by around 35-40mm with just the arms as the steel hub sits higher up and the ball join has to go on the wrong side of the arm as a solution.

Ideally you'll need the TT steering rack also, along with the TT driveshafts, and it will be 15mm wider track each side due to the TT hubs 
So Kerscher front fenders here we go 

[Hurdy]

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=473806789327130&set=a.159939344047211.26960.156342304406915&type=1&theater

All in good time my young Padawan. The force is strong in this one!

[geordie56]

TC from what John wants from this I'm assuming he doesn't want to be running any camber, although stiffer springs yes. However from reading what's done and what's to be done I would go for camber John and get the hubs! Danish you don't have to go for the TT rack, all it need is the TT ball joints and a quick simple bit of machining on the ends of the rack arms already fitted. also not needed are the driveshafts as this is a misconception a lot of people are having as once the car is lowered it brings the position tighter up I to the gearbox not further away. Trust me on this my car has seen many heavy track days now and it is absolutely spot on!

[Hurdy]

I've had a serious word with myself and reminded me of why I bought this car in the first place

The car was never intended to be a trackday warrior car, it is supposed to be an uber fast road car that I can use every day without knocking my teeth out, but yet be able to take it to a track 8-10 times a year and keep up with serious metal. This is why I chose the B16 PSS10's as on their softest setting they are more controlled and as comfy as stock, but on full hard they are proper track grade weaponry.

Obviously being me I'll do something stupid, extreme interestingly different along the way, but that's the way I roll!

[Cupra R]

Fancy testing it out at Donington this Saturday John 

[Top Cat]

8 to 10 times a year. That's a lot of track days John. Most track cars/only, don't see the circuits that much.
Or did you mean quarter mile sprints as well. 

[vRSAlex]

TC from what John wants from this I'm assuming he doesn't want to be running any camber, although stiffer springs yes. However from reading what's done and what's to be done I would go for camber John and get the hubs! Danish you don't have to go for the TT rack, all it need is the TT ball joints and a quick simple bit of machining on the ends of the rack arms already fitted. also not needed are the driveshafts as this is a misconception a lot of people are having as once the car is lowered it brings the position tighter up I to the gearbox not further away. Trust me on this my car has seen many heavy track days now and it is absolutely spot on!

I don't quite agree Shaun.  With the stock rod ends fitted with the tt hubs you only have around 3 threads of the arm in the rod end.   I ran mine e like that for a month or so just as you are but it's really not ideal.   Do it properly as per the TT.  Doing just the wishbones will give an instant -2 degs camber and doing both the hubs and the wishbone will only give around -1 deg.  Combined with adjustable top mounts,  hubs and wishbone will give -3 degs camber.

The shafts are slightly longer which isn't really necessary, but they are also stronger as they are not welded like stock shafts.

[Hurdy]

8 to 10 times a year. That's a lot of track days John. Most track cars/only, don't see the circuits that much.
Or did you mean quarter mile sprints as well. 

Yeah, 1/4 mile sprints are included.

Early Santa Pod next year
Oulton
Blyton
Santa Pod again
Donington
Shakespeare County raceway - 1/4 mile and handling course
Curborough
Nurburgring
York Raceway.

Maybe a few more too.

[Hurdy]

Fancy testing it out at Donington this Saturday John 

On afternoons Fri, Sat and Sun. 

[Cupra R]

Fancy testing it out at Donington this Saturday John 

On afternoons Fri, Sat and Sun. 

It was worth asking 

[geordie56]

I dont quite know exactly what they have done with mine at kpm Alex as I can guarantee you mine are in a lot more than 3 threads. I do know they used the ttrs ones and not sure if they are different in any way? Are yours the ones that are quite long and have a curve in them for tyre clearance on the TT? John when's your first track day next year then? When's your meth being fitted?

[vRSAlex]

I dont quite know exactly what they have done with mine at kpm Alex as I can guarantee you mine are in a lot more than 3 threads. I do know they used the ttrs ones and not sure if they are different in any way? Are yours the ones that are quite long and have a curve in them for tyre clearance on the TT? John when's your first track day next year then? When's your meth being fitted?

All the TT rod ends are the same and all fit into the hubs with no extra collars.  Mine are the bent ends, but the TT runs much shorter track arms too,  and the arms only fit the TT rack.

Using stock arms and rod ends only leaves 3 threads.

Not sure what you have then.