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Let's see the peoples choice of W/M kits

Devil's own
4 (50%)
Snow Performance
1 (12.5%)
AEM
2 (25%)
Aquamist
1 (12.5%)

Total Members Voted: 7

Author Topic: What W/M do you have?  (Read 4334 times)

Offline Tfsi_Mike

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Re: What W/M do you have?
« Reply #15 on: September 22, 2012, 06:32:29 pm »

Not sure atm. My brakes are bigger than the R brakes anyhow  :ashamed:

I meant for me ;)


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Offline ashw831

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Re: What W/M do you have?
« Reply #16 on: September 25, 2012, 08:40:37 am »
Is WMI easy to fit/ maintain, as I have been browsing the web and it looks to be quite cheap to buy..

Offline Keith@APR

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Re: What W/M do you have?
« Reply #17 on: September 25, 2012, 03:33:06 pm »
I am going for the AEM kit so voted thus.

The reason.............looks very nice, it has been recommended by Alex at AKS and it has a wire out to ground the N75 so I can map upto the WMI then if it runs out or blocks it cuts the N75.

I am sure others do this.

I may get the readout that can you can plug into a laptop to see how its running as well. :popcornsoda:

Timing is the primary concern but cutting boost is a start.  However, the ECU may still try to achieve its target timing which would still be a potential for engine damage.  Depending on what your remapper does, cutting boost will send the ecu into limp mode which removes timing also.

Offline james

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Re: What W/M do you have?
« Reply #18 on: September 25, 2012, 03:45:20 pm »
Only reason I got a snow kit as i did not want 100% injection down low only 20% and 100% at 20+ psi. 

I am not sure if the others do that?

Offline Keith@APR

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Re: What W/M do you have?
« Reply #19 on: September 25, 2012, 03:52:29 pm »
Only reason I got a snow kit as i did not want 100% injection down low only 20% and 100% at 20+ psi. 

I am not sure if the others do that?

Most have a rising rate maf based controller as far as I know.

I prefer static/constant injection with a remap that adjusts the other parameters.  I don't like putting extra controllers in the system that confuses the ECU.

Its very difficult for the ECU to control lambda with a rising rate controller in the mix.  The ECU is constantly adjusting and never running optimally.

Offline james

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Re: What W/M do you have?
« Reply #20 on: September 25, 2012, 03:55:59 pm »
I just runs off boost, it is a stage 3 controller so 14-16-20% 16-20 50%  and 100% at 23+

Also the AWE kit how does it cut boost?  if i d/c my dv i can still pull the same power but loads of chatter.

Offline Keith@APR

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Re: What W/M do you have?
« Reply #21 on: September 25, 2012, 04:20:23 pm »
I just runs off boost, it is a stage 3 controller so 14-16-20% 16-20 50%  and 100% at 23+

Also the AWE kit how does it cut boost?  if i d/c my dv i can still pull the same power but loads of chatter.


Same thing as running off maf.  The ecu is programmed to know that x amount of injector on time will result in x lambda.  If you have a constant meth injection, the ecu can determine a trim to apply across the board, allowing it maintain a more constant lambda.  If you are changing the amount of meth injected throughout the rpm's, the ecu has to constantly try and adjust the trim accordingly and every time the amount of meth injected changes, the ecu has to try and trim that again.

The AEM kit, I assume, sends a signal to the N75 valve keeping it closed so the waste gate stays open, reducing boost.  Prolly doesn't use the dv, or it can send a signal to open the dv if it does use the dv, dumping the boost.

Offline james

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Re: What W/M do you have?
« Reply #22 on: September 25, 2012, 05:32:27 pm »
oh thanks for explaining. 

Only reason I did it was when logging I was getting timing pull so was adjusting the meth injection to get 0 across the band.

Offline Keith@APR

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Re: What W/M do you have?
« Reply #23 on: September 25, 2012, 05:50:30 pm »
oh thanks for explaining. 

Only reason I did it was when logging I was getting timing pull so was adjusting the meth injection to get 0 across the band.


Great!  That is a good way to keep the car safe for sure!  Timing is dangerous.  Lambda being a little richer than is should be is no big deal.  Maybe loses a few ponies here and there but nothing crazy.  Keeping the timing in check is much more important.