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Author Topic: achieving more front camber  (Read 13468 times)

Offline jabbalad

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Re: achieving more front camber
« Reply #15 on: July 08, 2009, 10:49:01 am »
i understand a little about it i guess.

i know too much negative camber wil be great for cornering but it will have  detrimental effect on straight line traction as well as excessive tyre wear. both of which i dont want.

I also understand that with the additional castor provided by the Whiteline anti lift kit, you develop dynamic castor upon turning.
So my point is, should i increase the castor on the front to give even more dynamic negative camber. thus keeping straight line traction high, and tyre wear at a minimum or should i adjust to say -2 degrees camber  on the front combined with the WALK.

another thing i understand that if i have much more grip on the front i will run the risk of out grippping my rear and having oversteer occur, so i would surely need a little additional camber on the rear to cancel that out, and induce rear wheel steer.

please correct me if i am wrong. these are all things that i have picked up and tried to get my head around

Stand the rear wheels up straight and get the back end to move... only way to set up a road car derived fwd chassis.  :smiley:

For a road setup i would probably run the front at -2 degrees or just over, leave the castor standard with the WALK (it has quite a lot from factory), front wheels at 0 toe to keep tyre ware to a minimum, then set the rear wheels to parallel and stand them up straight, around -0.5~-1.0 (depending on tyre clearance to arch) instead of the -1.45iirc
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Offline Janner_Sy

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Re: achieving more front camber
« Reply #16 on: July 08, 2009, 03:38:57 pm »
why would you reduce the amount of negative camber on the rear though

Offline jabbalad

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Re: achieving more front camber
« Reply #17 on: July 08, 2009, 04:35:47 pm »
It works the same way as having lots of front camber, the more camber you have (up to a point) the more grip you gain...
from factory 80 percent of cars are designed to understeer, so the easiest way around this problem is to take grip away from the rear... by reducing the amount of camber
or you could flare the front arches and make a wide track hub and wishbone setup to make use of the rear camber  :happy2:

Clio cup cars are a good example of this, you can see how upright the rear wheels are (and how much toe out some of them run) just to get the front to point where they want it to...

It makes sense when you drive them  :smiley:
12.7 santapod... soon to be quicker :-)

Candy White Edition 30; Custom KW clubsports, Eibach hollow arbs, Jabba remap, BTB Exhaust, Twintake, Autotech HPFP, Team Dynamics wheels, VWR Big Brakes.