3M Headlamp restoration Kit Results Ed30

[camfollower]

The grit gets less with the numbering... so 500 is coarser than 800 and so on.
If you've made a balls up, and done it vice versa, then you just need to buy more 800 and above paper to rectify the problem... I would assume

[Saintsteve]

The grit gets less with the numbering... so 500 is coarser than 800 and so on.
If you've made a balls up, and done it vice versa, then you just need to buy more 800 and above paper to rectify the problem... I would assume

No we both used the correct order, I got the numbers incorrect but can confirm both Mandy and myself used the right coloured discs in correct order....

Although I feel Mandy has rushed hers and as a result not got rid of the sanding, and hopefully not burnt through the lense!!

[Mandy]

I'm not sure what went wrong, I probably needed to spend more time on each grade of paper, I can't see how I could've burnt the lens with a 14.4v drill compared to your 36v, I didn't really push down hard or repeatedly go over the same spot either.

[Saintsteve]

I'm not sure what went wrong, I probably needed to spend more time on each grade of paper, I can't see how I could've burnt the lens with a 14.4v drill compared to your 36v, I didn't really push down hard or repeatedly go over the same spot either.

Could also be your drill isn't fast enough Mandy? And why it's so patchy as you say it looks perhaps?.

I tried with my 14v Bosch but soon ditched it for my Works 36v lithium beauty to regulate the speed better.

I doubt you have burnt through the lense either, that would be pretty hard to do.

[galaxie500]

Hi guys & gals

Great work on your headlights Steve. I've previously put up shots of headlights I've restored - my old Audi S6's and a pal's Saab if you care to search for them. I believe any headlight kit is an unnecessary purchase. What appears to be the 'quick and easy' method will not always achieve the desired results in the hands of someone who's not used to rotary or DA techniques.  Mistakes can happen and a drill will only make the accident happen quicker and with more severity.
All one needs is the corresponding wet and dry abrasive papers, from 800 - 3000 ideally and some elbow grease!!
Use them after soaking for 10-15 minutes, rinse regularly in clean water and maintain a steady stream of very mildly soapy water out of a spray bottle and most importantly,  take your time!  Mandy's problems definitely stem from using a powered disc on a drill - just like burning paint with a rotary polisher v a DA; too much heat and abrasion in one place.  I'd stay clear of power polishing, treat the headlight with care and above all time and the plastic will become beautifully clear. Plast-X definitely works a treat as final polish before sealing.
Good luck.
galaxie500

[Saintsteve]

Hi guys & gals

Great work on your headlights Steve. I've previously put up shots of headlights I've restored - my old Audi S6's and a pal's Saab if you care to search for them. I believe any headlight kit is an unnecessary purchase. What appears to be the 'quick and easy' method will not always achieve the desired results in the hands of someone who's not used to rotary or DA techniques.  Mistakes can happen and a drill will only make the accident happen quicker and with more severity.
All one needs is the corresponding wet and dry abrasive papers, from 800 - 3000 ideally and some elbow grease!!
Use them after soaking for 10-15 minutes, rinse regularly in clean water and maintain a steady stream of very mildly soapy water out of a spray bottle and most importantly,  take your time!  Mandy's problems definitely stem from using a powered disc on a drill - just like burning paint with a rotary polisher v a DA; too much heat and abrasion in one place.  I'd stay clear of power polishing, treat the headlight with care and above all time and the plastic will become beautifully clear. Plast-X definitely works a treat as final polish before sealing.
Good luck.
galaxie500

@mandy..... Notice TIME 

Great advise, but for Mandy, hand sanding is much much longer process.. 

[Saintsteve]

As promised a full shot after its clean up today..



Saint steve

[scopes]

Great Jobs guys/gals

Hope you get it sorted Mandy 

Just ordered a kit myself, do you think the same could be used on the fog lights?

 

[Saintsteve]

Great Jobs guys/gals

Hope you get it sorted Mandy  

Just ordered a kit myself, do you think the same could be used on the fog lights?

 

I used it on my wing mirror housings today, I wet sanded my over filled stone chips, and got the drill out again and used the pad and compound. I now have pure black casings with no stone chips now

[scopes]

So it should work ok on the fog light glass... 

[Saintsteve]

So it should work ok on the fog light glass... 

Not sure if it will cut glass.... Plastic/ paints are softer, glass might not remove surface scratches?

[MC71]

So it should work ok on the fog light glass... 

How about using some metal polish, such as Autosol?

 Have read a few threads about using metal polish as a scratch remover on windows so don't see a reason why it wouldn't work on your Fog Lights. No idea if it actually works though so if it goes wrong don't blame me Neil. 

[scopes]

  yeah good point, I have heard of folk using something named along the lines of "jewellers loop" for using on windscreens...

anyone shed any light on this stuff

 

If it goes wrong Martin, your getting the blame  

[MC71]

^^^^   

[galaxie500]

I believe it's 'Jewellers Rouge' you've heard about. A Lupe is the magnifier a jeweller looks through to assess a diamond or other jewel's quality and repair a watch movement.
Rouge is a polishing compound type stuff I think!
I've heard it can be used on plastics too - some watch glasses are plastic and can be made scratch free again.
Hope that helps!
galaxie500