Quote from: Teutonic_Tamer on August 30, 2010, 08:04:05 pmQuote from: RedRobin on July 29, 2010, 02:28:22 pmThe enviro regulations don't help either.ORLY - take it you don't know any motorcyclists who have come a cropper on spilt oil. FFS, diesel on the road surface is bad enough - we don't want knuts purposely spewing oil onto the road surface too. I am more than happy about this particlular regulation for closed loop crankcase ventilation.....Slight misunderstand there, Sean: I'm against those systems which spew the oily residue on the road surface
Quote from: RedRobin on July 29, 2010, 02:28:22 pmThe enviro regulations don't help either.ORLY - take it you don't know any motorcyclists who have come a cropper on spilt oil. FFS, diesel on the road surface is bad enough - we don't want knuts purposely spewing oil onto the road surface too. I am more than happy about this particlular regulation for closed loop crankcase ventilation.
The enviro regulations don't help either.
and for the closed cans which need manually emptying.
In terms of longevity and having to fight numerous future issues which can be a by product of the valve deposits, stopping the valve deposits is priority 1A IMO. Checking the cam follower is priority 1B. Making sure you don't run the oil too long (beyond 5k for most users) is priority 2.IMO these are the 3 major weak spots of the 2.0 FSI design: Valve deposits, cam follower, fuel dilution (others such as DV or pcv failing exist also) Here are some options regarding the valve deposits. I would suggest using an option that eliminates pcv gasses returning to the intake tract but there are lots of proactive ways of dealing with the issue listed here.Some very easy/low cost preventative options that can help but will not solve the DI valve deposit problems:1) Use a low volatility and good cleaning oil (cost: additional $5-$10 per oil change)2) Seafoam, lubro moly valve cleaner, water, etc. through the intake at every oil change (search for dsire thread for a DIY) (cost: $3.50-$10)3) Regular italian tuneups (VW claims int the engine patent that running at high rpm for over 20 min will burn off deposits but I think it will only help a little) (cost: gas)4) "in-line" or recirculating catch can (all kinds of flavors out there) (cost: $30-$300)5) Fuel injector cleaner in the gas to deal with fuel injector deposits (will not help with intake valve or intake deposits) (cost:$5-$10)More difficult/expensive but more effective "treatment" options. These also help but do not completely solve the problem:6) BG induction service or similar (cost: $135-$250?)7) water/meth injection (cost: ???) remove intake manifold and manually clean valves every 50k or so (cost: ????)Some one-time-fix-the-problem options:1) bypass pcv and route to exhaust (search for saaber2 thread "bypassing pcv") (cost $125-$175)2) Run a catch can that vents to atmosphere ((may increase build up acids in oil due to lack of vacuum in evacuating crankcase gasses (but that is unknown)) May have smell or freezing issues?) (cost: $300?)3) Run a "down tube" or "road tube" that vents to atmosphere ((may increase build up acids in oil due to lack of vacuum in evacuating crankcase gasses (but that is unknown)) (cost: $25 -$50)Modified by saaber2 at 5:46 PM 1-12-2010
more infohttp://golfmkv.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2516446&postcount=97
http://www.wurth.co.uk/product-0893564.php
Quote from: vRStu on August 24, 2009, 03:07:33 pmhttp://www.wurth.co.uk/product-0893564.php** Thread resurection...Did anyone try this ^ Wurth products are very easy to come by here in Germany.Has anyone had the inlet mani off to inspect or clean the valves?
