Catch Can Fitting for Octavia vRS

[vRS Carl]

As i have a vRS and i know a few others have bought with vRS got in on the Group Buy i thought i'd post up a Guide for fitting as it differs slightly to a Golf

Before i start the usual Disclaimer:

Neither i nor MK5GolfGTI will be held liable for anything that goes wrong. If you undertake this process you do so entirely at your own risk!

Anyway if you aint sure what a Catch Can is for you can read here

BSH Catch Can

Ok Firstly this is the Kit you get (this is a Standard sized can kit) oh and you don't get the threadlock you buy that seperate.



Ok i had to find somewhere for it to fit so ended up choosing this location (nut and bolt you provide yourself).



There is enough clearance for the bonnet as shown below.



Next it was then a case of Fitting the Catch can in place making sure the Alternator and Timing belt had plenty of Clearance.





Next it was then fitting of the Plate and manifold block. Firstly remove the engine cover. Then remove Plastic PCV tubing by pressing in on the connectors and gently pulling out (DONT YANK) same both ends. also same for the Other large connector on the PCV



Then undo the four Screws that hold the PCV in place and keep them for later. Remove the PCV and your engine looks like this



Now fit the BSH Plate and screw into position. Be very careful otherwise you may end up needing a new Cylinder head Cover, which at the time of writing are £83 inc VAT, as i now do  



Now i found it easier to silver Valve first and then apply the Plate. It is also easier to connect the Hose to the valve then connect the plate as below



Once done it is then a case of screwing in the Taps remember Threadlock. They do not require to sit flush to the plate. As the OEM Gasket provides a tight seal and there is not much pressure going through there so they wont pop off.



Once that is done . Install the Manifold block off. Very simply push on end Make sure holes have cleared the lip and then instal screws. They go hand tight DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.





Now it is just a case of cutting the hoses to the correct length and attaching to relevant connector (right tap to top of can left tap to middle of can) and Voila all done



As you can see still plenty of clearance



Be aware the taps do not need to be fitted flush to the plate and the plate will not sit flush properly to the Cylinder Head cover.



Any questions feel free

HIH

Carl

[Janner_Sy]

cheers carl

[SteveP]

Great write-up Carl 

[bacillus]

I have to ask if you trimmed the plastic 90 degree connectors so that they don't protrude beyond the "engine" side of the pcv plate as that plate doesn't look like it's sitting perfectly flat against the cover.

[vRS Carl]

No i didnt trim it as i made sure the taps weren't fully screwed in

That was something i pointed out earlier in the group buy section. The OEM Gasket still provides a seal but the plate just will not sit flush.

I have got a new cylinder head cover on route though as the screw threads in that one are knackered and had to be barstewardsised with larger screws. so hopefully the new cover will make it sit flush

Carl

[bacillus]

Ok, good luck with the fitting with the new cover.   

[vRS Carl]

Is it a Huge job?

Doesn't look hard just a case of removing a few nuts and replacing the new plastic cover

Or am i missing something

Carl

[edition_30]

Very good write up Carl!!

Firstly what is thread lock.. i take it its the loctite red bottle. should this be used on all screws?

Second you mention that the taps don't screw all the way in so that the plate sits sort of flush with the block.. could you not screw the taps all the way in then shave off the unnecessary thread enabling the plate to site flush?

[vRS Carl]

Yes mate Threadlock is the Loctite.

It's Semi-Permanent threadlock that you want. Basically it acts like a glue in that it will stop the tap unscrewing itself but won't grip like a glue so that should you need to remove it all you can do.

I could shave the taps but i dont see the need too as there is not much pressure going through there. so i just screwed them in so they sat flush with the BSH Plate back and didn't protrude through.

When i get the new Cylinder Head Cover later today i may shave the bits off the back and see if that helps it sit flush.

Carl

[edition_30]

When i get the new Cylinder Head Cover later today i may shave the bits off the back and see if that helps it sit flush.

Carl

Thanks for that mate.. yea if you shave the threads & its sits flush can you let me know

Thanks

[vRS Carl]

Well replaced it today and i shaved the threads and it sits closer but there is still a slight gap. However due to the Gasket the seal is tight so all is fine and there are no faults after checking with VCDS

Will post up a Cylinder Head Cover replacement tutorial when ive written it later and uploaded all the pics

Carl

[Janner_Sy]

carl mate, cant get pics to show up on the computer at the moment so a quick question.

I fitted my catchcan earlier and have connected the right hand pipe to the top of the canister, and the left hand one to the middle outlet on the catch can. is that right.

cheers mate
sy

[bacillus]

carl mate, cant get pics to show up on the computer at the moment so a quick question.

I fitted my catchcan earlier and have connected the right hand pipe to the top of the canister, and the left hand one to the middle outlet on the catch can. is that right.

cheers mate
sy

Yes, that is the recommended fitment.   

[Janner_Sy]

nice one cheers boss.

The instructions were pretty pants to be fair. luckily easy to fit. I also had to shave the threads off the back as mine wouldnt align with them protruding through. other than that, jobs a fish

[vRS Carl]

The instructions were pretty pants to be fair.

I hope your not referring to my instructions   

Carl