Michelin Pilot Super Sports

[tony_danza]

You don't need to worry about the rear, that just slides around with no real weight on in (if you're doing it right). Why have you got camber on the rear out of interest?? Are we talking a lot??

I run oddly high pressure to keep the carcass stable, seems to do the trick, about 34 cold... but, I have a RWD car, so you may have to experiment, as you're asking different things of them on a FWD car.

[danishmkvgti]

More info on the Michelin Pilot Super sports here (19")

http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,24893.0.html

[flashp]

You don't need to worry about the rear, that just slides around with no real weight on in (if you're doing it right). Why have you got camber on the rear out of interest?? Are we talking a lot??

I run oddly high pressure to keep the carcass stable, seems to do the trick, about 34 cold... but, I have a RWD car, so you may have to experiment, as you're asking different things of them on a FWD car.

I suppose when I say reasonable camber that statement is based on what I can see when I look at the rear tyres, and that is that the outside edge isn't as fully in contact with the road as the inside. It's not significant enough to cause wear issues but you can see the bias when they are dust covered. I'm not an expert in geometry settings but appreciate it's importance. Here's my current settings that were applied when I had my suspension components fitted. Is there any mileage in getting front negative camber moved out towards but not exceeding specification?

[tony_danza]

That's a 'safe' stock setting. Nothing wrong as such, just not really maximising your mods.

Crudely speaking for fast road, you want as much camber and caster as you can get on the front, I ran 0 toe, out was a bit nervous for a daily driver.
Rear equal - 0.5 degrees less camber than fronts and 0 rear toe.

This will induce a bit more lift off oversteer into it, so if you're not comfortable with that kind of feel, stick to how you've got it.

[fab5freddy]

You should get some Super pro adjustable ball joints to go with your alloy control arms, that will give you an extra -1 degree of camber 

[Tfsi_Mike]

You should get some Super pro adjustable ball joints to go with your alloy control arms, that will give you an extra -1 degree of camber 

^^^ 

[vRSAlex]

You don't need to worry about the rear, that just slides around with no real weight on in (if you're doing it right). Why have you got camber on the rear out of interest?? Are we talking a lot??

I run oddly high pressure to keep the carcass stable, seems to do the trick, about 34 cold... but, I have a RWD car, so you may have to experiment, as you're asking different things of them on a FWD car.

I suppose when I say reasonable camber that statement is based on what I can see when I look at the rear tyres, and that is that the outside edge isn't as fully in contact with the road as the inside. It's not significant enough to cause wear issues but you can see the bias when they are dust covered. I'm not an expert in geometry settings but appreciate it's importance. Here's my current settings that were applied when I had my suspension components fitted. Is there any mileage in getting front negative camber moved out towards but not exceeding specification?

Lazy f*ckers didn't bother adjusting the rear camber.  Poor show.

[flashp]

You don't need to worry about the rear, that just slides around with no real weight on in (if you're doing it right). Why have you got camber on the rear out of interest?? Are we talking a lot??

I run oddly high pressure to keep the carcass stable, seems to do the trick, about 34 cold... but, I have a RWD car, so you may have to experiment, as you're asking different things of them on a FWD car.

I suppose when I say reasonable camber that statement is based on what I can see when I look at the rear tyres, and that is that the outside edge isn't as fully in contact with the road as the inside. It's not significant enough to cause wear issues but you can see the bias when they are dust covered. I'm not an expert in geometry settings but appreciate it's importance. Here's my current settings that were applied when I had my suspension components fitted. Is there any mileage in getting front negative camber moved out towards but not exceeding specification?

Lazy f*ckers didn't bother adjusting the rear camber.  Poor show.

Is that possibly because it's in spec? Granted they're not the same but both appear to be within limits.

[tony_danza]

Probably, they've done what's easiest, not necessarily what's best.

Geo makes a huge difference on these, I'd look at going for a proper custom setup - it'll come alive.

[rich83]

My parents have just had this with their mk6. Rear camber -1.39 one side and -2.11 the other side. Put it into VW for alignment due to excessive tyre wear and came back the same camber.

Anyone doing alignment should get it within 2' of actual spec. If not they have not done there job right

[flashp]

I see. I think there's a thread or two around here regarding this, I'll try and find it later I think. Not sure where I'd go for adjustments to my specification around here (Portsmouth area) so I'll have to do some research possibly.
A difference of 0.18 between the rears isn't too bad I suppose.

[vRSAlex]

I see. I think there's a thread or two around here regarding this, I'll try and find it later I think. Not sure where I'd go for adjustments to my specification around here (Portsmouth area) so I'll have to do some research possibly.
A difference of 0.18 between the rears isn't too bad I suppose.

It's enough.  I will always get a car spot on no matter what.

[Tfsi_Mike]

I see. I think there's a thread or two around here regarding this, I'll try and find it later I think. Not sure where I'd go for adjustments to my specification around here (Portsmouth area) so I'll have to do some research possibly.
A difference of 0.18 between the rears isn't too bad I suppose.

It's enough.  I will always get a car spot on no matter what.

My handling is awesome after Alex's geometry setup 

[Hedge]

I see. I think there's a thread or two around here regarding this, I'll try and find it later I think. Not sure where I'd go for adjustments to my specification around here (Portsmouth area) so I'll have to do some research possibly.
A difference of 0.18 between the rears isn't too bad I suppose.

I believe JKM have the tools now.   

[flashp]

I see. I think there's a thread or two around here regarding this, I'll try and find it later I think. Not sure where I'd go for adjustments to my specification around here (Portsmouth area) so I'll have to do some research possibly.
A difference of 0.18 between the rears isn't too bad I suppose.

I believe JKM have the tools now.   

I remember Kate telling me they had tracking tools now you mention it. Rang them today and they are going to have a look soon. Not sure how much adjustment I'll get on current hardware but have mooted the idea of adjustable ball joints etc so will see what comes back.