General > Product Reviews
Michelin Pilot Super Sports
Tfsi_Mike:
--- Quote from: fab5freddy on April 30, 2014, 11:58:00 am ---You should get some Super pro adjustable ball joints to go with your alloy control arms, that will give you an extra -1 degree of camber :driver:
--- End quote ---
^^^ :happy2:
vRSAlex:
--- Quote from: flashp on April 29, 2014, 10:47:13 pm ---
--- Quote from: tony_danza on April 29, 2014, 07:33:55 pm ---You don't need to worry about the rear, that just slides around with no real weight on in (if you're doing it right). Why have you got camber on the rear out of interest?? Are we talking a lot??
I run oddly high pressure to keep the carcass stable, seems to do the trick, about 34 cold... but, I have a RWD car, so you may have to experiment, as you're asking different things of them on a FWD car.
--- End quote ---
I suppose when I say reasonable camber that statement is based on what I can see when I look at the rear tyres, and that is that the outside edge isn't as fully in contact with the road as the inside. It's not significant enough to cause wear issues but you can see the bias when they are dust covered. I'm not an expert in geometry settings but appreciate it's importance. Here's my current settings that were applied when I had my suspension components fitted. Is there any mileage in getting front negative camber moved out towards but not exceeding specification? :popcornsoda:
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Lazy f*ckers didn't bother adjusting the rear camber. Poor show.
flashp:
--- Quote from: vRSAlex on April 30, 2014, 02:05:59 pm ---
--- Quote from: flashp on April 29, 2014, 10:47:13 pm ---
--- Quote from: tony_danza on April 29, 2014, 07:33:55 pm ---You don't need to worry about the rear, that just slides around with no real weight on in (if you're doing it right). Why have you got camber on the rear out of interest?? Are we talking a lot??
I run oddly high pressure to keep the carcass stable, seems to do the trick, about 34 cold... but, I have a RWD car, so you may have to experiment, as you're asking different things of them on a FWD car.
--- End quote ---
I suppose when I say reasonable camber that statement is based on what I can see when I look at the rear tyres, and that is that the outside edge isn't as fully in contact with the road as the inside. It's not significant enough to cause wear issues but you can see the bias when they are dust covered. I'm not an expert in geometry settings but appreciate it's importance. Here's my current settings that were applied when I had my suspension components fitted. Is there any mileage in getting front negative camber moved out towards but not exceeding specification? :popcornsoda:
--- End quote ---
Lazy f*ckers didn't bother adjusting the rear camber. Poor show.
--- End quote ---
Is that possibly because it's in spec? Granted they're not the same but both appear to be within limits.
tony_danza:
Probably, they've done what's easiest, not necessarily what's best.
Geo makes a huge difference on these, I'd look at going for a proper custom setup - it'll come alive.
rich83:
My parents have just had this with their mk6. Rear camber -1.39 one side and -2.11 the other side. Put it into VW for alignment due to excessive tyre wear and came back the same camber.
Anyone doing alignment should get it within 2' of actual spec. If not they have not done there job right
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