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Author Topic: Bleeding brakes  (Read 19135 times)

Offline Paul_zx6r

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Re:
« Reply #15 on: April 23, 2014, 01:51:27 pm »
It's in garage getting sorted now so should find out later

Offline jason_rmh

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Re:
« Reply #16 on: May 03, 2014, 09:58:55 pm »
I'm now in the same situation after fitting new calipers.
I've bled the brakes using the 2 man method, press and hold the pedal etc.
Did this around 4 times in the order shown above, air no longer coming from the calipers.
After the first time, I cycled the abs using vcds, activating abs pump on each Caliper for 30 seconds.

Brake pedal very spongy
Pedal travels to floor before brakes bite
Rear calipers not really doing much
Handbrake not effective.

After a bit if googling I've found that you have to pump the pedal a few times to build pressure before cracking the bleed nipple.

Will give this a go tomorrow and report back.

Jas

VCDS (Preston, Lancashire)

Offline GrayMK5GTI

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Re: Bleeding brakes
« Reply #17 on: May 03, 2014, 10:06:56 pm »
I fitted S3 brakes today and didn't have any issues with bleeding.

I unscrewed the brakes lines without bleeding the system and only lost a few drops of fluid. I then bled the new brakes one at a time as I installed them.

Doing it this way didn't upset the fluid in the master cylinder so the only air was in the new brake lines
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Offline Paul_zx6r

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Re: Bleeding brakes
« Reply #18 on: May 03, 2014, 10:14:51 pm »
Wish I had of done it this way, I've had a  new master cylinder fitted and its still not fixed so the garage is sending my abs pump off as they think the seals maybe inverted, its certainly not going to be a cheap fix

Offline jason_rmh

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Re:
« Reply #19 on: May 05, 2014, 05:05:28 pm »
I re bled the brakes today using two man method, but pumping to build up pressure before releasing nipple.
I bit more air was forced out.
Then went for a test drive, activated abs and re bled again.

Brakes are now functional including handbrake.
Pedal is firm but there is a little more travel than I was expecting. I have used discs with new pads so will let the pads bed in and see if pedal improves, may try bleeding again.

However, car is now driveable :-)

Jas

VCDS (Preston, Lancashire)

Offline Paul_zx6r

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Re: Bleeding brakes
« Reply #20 on: June 02, 2014, 11:27:12 am »
Thought i better update this, I got my car back friday and it turns out that the place where i thought i was getting a bargain paint job have f*cked one of the rear calipers  :fighting:

I've got a brakes now but the pads needs a bit of bedding in as theres still a bit of travel in the pedal but its improving with each drive

so i've got a new master cylinder and the garage sent the abs pump off to be be checked and that was fine

Offline Baz300

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Re: Bleeding brakes
« Reply #21 on: June 02, 2014, 08:36:07 pm »
When I changed the rear calipers on my TDI I had this issues

A pressure bleeding kit done the job for me.

Offline doylebros

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Re: Bleeding brakes
« Reply #22 on: June 02, 2014, 09:45:13 pm »
I found this worth a read

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/brake-fluid-and-clutch-bleeding-and-flush-mk5-vw/

But remember sometimes it takes a couple of bleeds to get the desired result.

Offline omeydz

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Re: Bleeding brakes
« Reply #23 on: June 02, 2014, 11:08:24 pm »
Are you all bleeding the clutch same time as brakes out of interest?
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Offline Paul_zx6r

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Re:
« Reply #24 on: June 03, 2014, 07:05:06 am »
The whole system was bled about 15 times and there was absolutely no air in it.

It was the caliper causing the problem

Offline omeydz

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Re: Bleeding brakes
« Reply #25 on: June 03, 2014, 08:41:12 am »
Sorry I mean in the guides it says to bleed the clutch cylinder under the intake as well as the brakes.

Are you all just doing brakes or doing clutch bleed too?

Im a newbie to this side of cars ;)
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Offline DDM

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Re: Bleeding brakes
« Reply #26 on: June 03, 2014, 09:05:30 am »
I've replaced a few abs units on golfs because of the dreaded brake pressure problem, and obviously had to bleed the whole system, firstly I always start by opening a bleed nipple, then pushing the brake pedal to the floor and holding it there with the likes of a jack handle, this then stops the fluid running out of the master cylinder and leaving it dry, I then change said part and bleed the system with a hydraulic brake bleeder. Starting with the wheel most furthest away from the master cylinder, and going round twice gives a good result every time so far. Although you will have a very slight spongy pedal straight away, I find this will disappear once you've driven it and worked the brakes a bit.