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Author Topic: Lets talk brakes: Grooved & drilled vs Grooved  (Read 57236 times)

Offline Poverty

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Re: Lets talk brakes: Grooved & drilled vs Grooved
« Reply #30 on: November 01, 2009, 11:55:22 pm »
The other thing is that in the main race pads are cheap, just bought some AP 3215's in Mintex 1144 AND 1177's at the weekend and had changeout of £100 inc VAT.

What are DS's now £125?

Mintex 1144's are a great "clubman" pad apparently, Mike how did J.Casey fair at the weekend with these said he was going to give them a go - any idea?

Been quoted £120 for the ferodos.

So I should have 2 sets of pads. One fast road, and one purely for track use?


Offline tony_danza

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Re: Lets talk brakes: Grooved & drilled vs Grooved
« Reply #31 on: November 01, 2009, 11:56:10 pm »
As far as I know/have found you can use any pad on a used disc - so swap around to suit your needs, it's a 15 minute job...with the exception of ceramic based stuff , unless you're prepared to deal with 100 miles or so worth of judder whilst it scrapes the old build up off. I learnt this the hard way - you're supposed to scuff up the discs with garnet paper, at least.

The RC6s are the easiest in terms of 'fit em and go' pad around, fully sintered FTW - but they squeal like a pig unless you back them with 3M anti vibration tape and they'll kill soft discs... that's race pads for you.

Mr Casey went well, Dave.
« Last Edit: November 01, 2009, 11:58:14 pm by tony_danza »
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Offline Janner_Sy

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Re: Lets talk brakes: Grooved & drilled vs Grooved
« Reply #32 on: November 02, 2009, 12:07:55 am »
out of interest would the oem disc be classed as hard??

also what does FTW  stand for

Offline DaveB@Vagbremtechnic

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Re: Lets talk brakes: Grooved & drilled vs Grooved
« Reply #33 on: November 02, 2009, 12:12:55 am »
Hard discs have an application in endurance motorsport - not always. Ceramic Discs are very hard and can last 200k km's

FTW

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=ftw

I had to look it up when I first saw it over on uk-mkivs   :ashamed:  :ashamed:  :signLOL:

Offline Poverty

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Re: Lets talk brakes: Grooved & drilled vs Grooved
« Reply #34 on: November 02, 2009, 12:17:15 am »
Call Brakes International on 01706 666999

BPT2942 are Textars for the Mk5 R32 42 quid

BDC6152 are bremtech and are about 150

Both plus VAT

Out of curiosity what would OEM R32 discs and pads cost....?

If they give you a different price than those tell them account number DB21 if you decide to buy them.

They'll cope admirably with what you could throw at them on the road

One more question mate, can I run stock pads and discs on the rear and the ones you have listed upfront allright? Or should I get the same pads all round?

Offline Msportman

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Re: Lets talk brakes: Grooved & drilled vs Grooved
« Reply #35 on: November 02, 2009, 12:23:58 am »
It isn't the drilling technique, the decent brakes (Porsche etc) are forged and not cast metal, so its properties are much better.

Drilled means they heat up and cool down quicker, as there's less mass, that's why the crack. RS4 discs are a bugger for cracking.

ATE Powerdiscs

Heat in brakes is a good thing, so long as it is all matched - you want the right pad for your temp range. A set of DS2500s, or even better, Pagid blues on those ATE discs and you're golden.

Absolutely spot on Tony. Porsche are forged at the foundary. Drilling just weakens the disc and causes cracking.

I've used many brands in the past and depedant on budget and how hard you use them especially on track then a good 2 piece set up will dissapate heat in the most efficient manner.
I have used the Tarox 330 2 piece slotted discs which last for nearly 3 years and this included many times on track and 3 sets of Tarox Corsa pads.....very effective but the discs are noisy and are expensive to replace.

A good set of OE discs with good brake fluid and a good high heta pad can be very effective if not as strong on retardation for ultimate stopping power but I wouldn't go anywhere near drilled discs as the one's I've used will for sure be binned after a few trackdays from cracking.


I was looking at the Tarox 10 pot 345mm single piece set up due to it's cheaper disc replacement option as OE discs can still be used if on a budget and the 10 pots give a brilliant pedal feel. Not snappy like some of the big 4 pot calipers around!!
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Offline DaveB@Vagbremtechnic

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Re: Lets talk brakes: Grooved & drilled vs Grooved
« Reply #36 on: November 02, 2009, 07:29:32 am »

Quote
I was looking at the Tarox 10 pot 345mm single piece set up due to it's cheaper disc replacement option as OE discs can still be used if on a budget and the 10 pots give a brilliant pedal feel. Not snappy like some of the big 4 pot calipers around!!


I was asked to refurb some of these and the seal kit was £450 including carriage and VAT from Italy, if you need pistons a refurb for these could potentially be approaching 4 figures  :surprised:.

Another hidden cost of track days I suppose

Offline cuprak1

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Re: Lets talk brakes: Grooved & drilled vs Grooved
« Reply #37 on: November 02, 2009, 10:09:35 am »
I like where this thread is going, i am due some new pads and discs, im using oem ones with redstuff pads and they clunk and ping everytime i brake its awful!

fluid changed and bled and still no difference in my braking ability


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Offline tony_danza

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Re: Lets talk brakes: Grooved & drilled vs Grooved
« Reply #38 on: November 02, 2009, 11:08:25 am »
I'll sum up so far:

The right pads and some decent fluid are the most important bit. You can either run 2 sets, so a decent (cheap) OEM fast road capable and then some serious stuff for hooning. Or, a crossover pad such as a Pagid Blue which should cope with most things.

Then you've got 3 options on discs.

1. OEM spec discs. Cheap as chips, can be grooved by any engineering shop. Cost effective even if you're swapping them every 12 months.
2. Uprated discs such as Tarox/ATE/Nitrac. Usually much harder material and last longer.
3. 2 piece. The ultimate in weight saving and heat control... performance costs though.
Sideways yo!

Offline DaveB@Vagbremtechnic

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Re: Lets talk brakes: Grooved & drilled vs Grooved
« Reply #39 on: November 02, 2009, 12:17:45 pm »
I'll sum up so far:

The right pads and some decent fluid are the most important bit. You can either run 2 sets, so a decent (cheap) OEM fast road capable and then some serious stuff for hooning. Or, a crossover pad such as a Pagid Blue which should cope with most things.

Then you've got 3 options on discs.

1. OEM spec discs. Cheap as chips, can be grooved by any engineering shop. Cost effective even if you're swapping them every 12 months.
2. Uprated discs such as Tarox/ATE/Nitrac. Usually much harder material and last longer.
3. 2 piece. The ultimate in weight saving and heat control... performance costs though.

Wot e sed ^^^^^   :happy2:

Summarised perfectly - nothing else to add at all

Offline john_o

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Re: Lets talk brakes: Grooved & drilled vs Grooved
« Reply #40 on: November 02, 2009, 12:37:38 pm »
thanked you both , excellent info  :happy2:

where per chance would we get these ??
« Last Edit: November 02, 2009, 12:50:25 pm by john_o »
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Offline JPC

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Re: Lets talk brakes: Grooved & drilled vs Grooved
« Reply #41 on: November 02, 2009, 01:30:58 pm »
balance motorsport at a guess? thats where i tend to get my brake parts from

Offline cuprak1

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Re: Lets talk brakes: Grooved & drilled vs Grooved
« Reply #42 on: November 03, 2009, 10:37:47 am »
Found another company to through in the mix.

Alcon brakes =  Alcon for those of you that don't know make the new RS6 brakes.

http://www.alcon.co.uk/advantage_extreme.htm

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Offline JPC

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Re: Lets talk brakes: Grooved & drilled vs Grooved
« Reply #43 on: November 03, 2009, 10:48:09 am »
hmm...brake porn!

Offline tony_danza

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Re: Lets talk brakes: Grooved & drilled vs Grooved
« Reply #44 on: November 03, 2009, 11:36:33 am »
CupraK1, I've got Alcons on mine, and can confirm they are indeed as epic as epic gets... but then I was prepared to pay for the performance over what we're talking about here, there's a big jump in price.

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