Dazza's Maintenance Thread

[jedi-knight83]

Seems your well under way with this already. I have the HSK 163 kit and the mid is the HL70. Much smaller unit

http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/hl-70/

This is a much better direct fit.

I think because you went for the "L" version the speakers are much bigger and deeper.

Thanks mate! So as usual i make things harder for my self by buying the wrong speakers.

If i buy a smaller hertz mid will it work ok with the crossover?

I'm going to attempt and get everything back to together switching out a speaker or even all the speakers would be easy now that all the hard work it done.

mmm. Its a different crossover but it will work fine. The one with yours is the CX300.5 which does 600hz and 6kHz

The one that comes with the hsk163 (containing the hv70) is the 3w.10 which does 500hz and 4.5khz

The HL70 will handle 200hz - 14khz though so it will work fine and won't risk blowing as your cross over is sending it frequencies well inside what it can handle.

[jedi-knight83]

i see your amping these as well. I've set a low pass cut off to protect the woofers on mine

My woofers (HV165L) go down to 40hz but i set a cut off at about 70hz (and my sub caters for anything below that)

Your woofers are EV165L.5 and go down to 50hz so personally id set a low pass on the amp at 60-70hz especially if your going to be running the amp at a medium to high level. If your running a sub you can set the cut off a little higher even to protect them more and reduce any door vibrations and let the sub look after 20-80hz range.

[dazza]

i see your amping these as well. I've set a low pass cut off to protect the woofers on mine

My woofers (HV165L) go down to 40hz but i set a cut off at about 70hz (and my sub caters for anything below that)

Your woofers are EV165L.5 and go down to 50hz so personally id set a low pass on the amp at 60-70hz especially if your going to be running the amp at a medium to high level. If your running a sub you can set the cut off a little higher even to protect them more and reduce any door vibrations and let the sub look after 20-80hz range.

Thanks for your help. I got the outer skin and door card back on. Cant seem to get the arm rest to fit properly. Probably due to the mid.

Its all working off the head unit (well one door). I was expecting a massive improvement for all the work. Not sure at this point. But no distortion or rattles at high volume compared to the other door.

Will they liven up when amped?

With the tweeter is the wire with the red line the negative?

HL70 is the best option for the mid or is there anything else?

[jedi-knight83]

i see your amping these as well. I've set a low pass cut off to protect the woofers on mine

My woofers (HV165L) go down to 40hz but i set a cut off at about 70hz (and my sub caters for anything below that)

Your woofers are EV165L.5 and go down to 50hz so personally id set a low pass on the amp at 60-70hz especially if your going to be running the amp at a medium to high level. If your running a sub you can set the cut off a little higher even to protect them more and reduce any door vibrations and let the sub look after 20-80hz range.

Thanks for your help. I got the outer skin and door card back on. Cant seem to get the arm rest to fit properly. Probably due to the mid.

Its all working off the head unit (well one door). I was expecting a massive improvement for all the work. Not sure at this point. But no distortion or rattles at high volume compared to the other door.

Will they liven up when amped?

With the tweeter is the wire with the red line the negative?

HL70 is the best option for the mid or is there anything else?

They won't be a massive improvement with just the head unit powering them. The standard speakers were half decent as it was. But yes once you run them from the amp they will be able to handle the power better than the OEM speakers.

Cant remember the exact wiring on them now but i always thought red was positive.

I'm sure there are other mids that will fit but i know that the HL70's go in without a problem.

[Shoduchi]

i see your amping these as well. I've set a low pass cut off to protect the woofers on mine

My woofers (HV165L) go down to 40hz but i set a cut off at about 70hz (and my sub caters for anything below that)

Your woofers are EV165L.5 and go down to 50hz so personally id set a low pass on the amp at 60-70hz especially if your going to be running the amp at a medium to high level. If your running a sub you can set the cut off a little higher even to protect them more and reduce any door vibrations and let the sub look after 20-80hz range.

Thanks for your help. I got the outer skin and door card back on. Cant seem to get the arm rest to fit properly. Probably due to the mid.

Its all working off the head unit (well one door). I was expecting a massive improvement for all the work. Not sure at this point. But no distortion or rattles at high volume compared to the other door.

Will they liven up when amped?

With the tweeter is the wire with the red line the negative?

HL70 is the best option for the mid or is there anything else?

Have you read the DIY that I posted: http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=184416

The poster explained how you can screw the bolf for the arm rest. He also explains the wire diagrams. Not sure if he explains exactly what wire is positive or negative, but I'm like jedi-knight83: black -> negative, red -> positive.

[dazza]

Thanks guys i assumed the wire with the red stripe was the positive as the speakers have a red dot next to the positive connector. But i have read that the wire with a stripe is the negative.

TBH at this point wish i had not started this one. But i suspect when all the speakers are switched out it will sound awesome.

[dazza]

I really had to push myself this afternoon to start on the passenger door. Once i did i got through it quickly i've already deadened the inner and out skin, mounted the woofer bracket and glued the tweeter. Hopefully tomorrow i can start on the rears and running the cables from the head unit.

[dazza]

Went out for a quick run today the deadening on the drivers door has definitely reduced the noise from the Revo intake slightly

[th3_f15t]

The inner skin in now deadened. TBH this is an absolute PITA don't think i will bother doing the other side.

I think you knew that this was never going to be an option...

[jedi-knight83]

I really had to push myself this afternoon to start on the passenger door. Once i did i got through it quickly i've already deadened the inner and out skin, mounted the woofer bracket and glued the tweeter. Hopefully tomorrow i can start on the rears and running the cables from the head unit.

you sound like your not enjoying it. I really enjoyed doing mine... mind you that was in the summer and i had a week off and just did it at my own pace. I want to take it apart and change a few bits now and do more deadening

[dazza]

I actually enjoyed it today. It was much more organised than the other days, took my time and tidied tools and sh*t as i went. Mainly due to knowing exactly what i was doing. I like jobs like this usually any excuse to get the soldering iron out.

I'm a  little peeved that i cannot get the mids to fit as i know other people have fitted them.

@jedi-knight83 did you deaden the door card? When i fade to the door that i've done it seems that all of the sound is coming from the tweeter i suspect its from the massive mid and the sh*tty positioning of the woofer.

@th3_f15t will take some pics and notes tomorrow when i run the wires through the door.

[jedi-knight83]

I actually enjoyed it today. It was much more organised than the other days, took my time and tidied tools and sh*t as i went. Mainly due to knowing exactly what i was doing. I like jobs like this usually any excuse to get the soldering iron out.

I'm a  little peeved that i cannot get the mids to fit as i know other people have fitted them.

@jedi-knight83 did you deaden the door card? When i fade to the door that i've done it seems that all of the sound is coming from the tweeter i suspect its from the massive mid and the sh*tty positioning of the woofer.

@th3_f15t will take some pics and notes tomorrow when i run the wires through the door.

I did a bit on the back of the door card but i want to do more and also put a closed sell foam over the whole thing as well now like i've done with my caddy.



Just swap to the smaller HL70 speakers. they will sound just as good if not better and will fit easily.

Also check all your polarities on the speakers. if one of them is the wrong way round it will ruin the sound and may be why it sounds like its all from the tweeter.

[dazza]

@jedi-knight83 i think the door card produce most of the rattles. I will have a go at them another day.

Finished the passenger door today. The door card fitted. But as i was tightening the two bolts in the centre the plastic cap behind the mid popped off i had a feeling this might happen so i fitted the outer skin last. Will be ordering some HL70's soon.

Ran out of decent speaker wire so could not start on the rears. Started running the wires from the head unit to boot. Hopefully will get the fronts connected to the amp tomorrow.

[dazza]

Got the amp on just to test.

There is a massive improvement the sound no longer seems to be coming from the tweeter.

Any one running an Audio Control LOC. Does the signal sensing work. I thought it was working until i switched off the head unit and the lights stayed on.

[dazza]

So id does go off eventually.  How long does the RNS 510 stay on for after you switch off the engine? Is this going to drain the battery having 2 amp and LOC stay on also.