3 Way Speaker Upgrade with AMP

[dazza]

Thanks mate i think i was on the wrong site.

I will go for
ESK163L.5
ESK165L.5

Hopefully will make a massive improvement we will see.

[Shoduchi]

Please review them after installing. I hope you'll like them because I think if I ever go that route of upgrading my speakers I'll get those speakers as well.

[dazza]

I will try my best mate. Lately all of my installs seem to go pear shaped.

[dazza]

I've ordered the speakers and brackets.

What about sound deadening any suggestions on what brand?

Also anything else i will need?

Not installing the amp and loc now just the speakers.

[xjay1337]

Buy a decent bitumen based one from Ebay
I pay about £25 for 10m x 30mm . Don't need a fancy brand one.
No point installing the speakers until you install the amp (personally) but this depends how you are wiring up the speakers/amp whether you are running amp wires back to each speaker or bridging them further up.

[ryder2012]

i found that the RNS510 only puts out 20watts per channel so i had to run an amp as well.

the back of my stereo is now a cluster of those crimp splice things and LOCs. but the difference was worth it. i personally didnt bother with sound deadening as lets face it, its a car, not a recording studio. your never going to get class A audio from a car.

true you can argue get the best you can with what you got. but just seems a waste of money. might go down that route later on but for now, its as good as it'll get.

those splice things, they work nicely. definatly get those, 8 for £3 in halfords. you'll want 2 packs if your going dual LOC as the one pack will do the speaker wires but you also need another 2 for grounding the locs.

[dazza]

Thanks guys i've not really thought to much about the amp install yet.

I wanted to match the Monoblock amp i already have with the JL Audio JX360/4. Will 70 watts RMS be enough?

It states 70 W RMS @ 14.4V and 55 W RMS @ 12.5V 

[xjay1337]

i personally didnt bother with sound deadening as lets face it, its a car, not a recording studio. your never going to get class A audio from a car.

Definiately sound deaden the car!!!!!!

I bought enough to sound deaden three cars fully for £70 and had plenty left over.
It helps stop rattles and keeps more of the sound produced by the speakers inside of the car rather than rattling away, and helps to keep SOME of the road noise out.
a big difference and sound deadening alone will make a positive impact to your audio quality.

[dazza]

Spent a bit more money. Soundproofing, power cable, distributor blocks, rca's and a second hand LOC (6 Channel).

Just need to decide on the amp now. Options please!

What RMS should i be looking at for these?
ESK163L.5
ESK165L.5

[dazza]

Think i have everything now went for the JL AUDIO JX360/4 in the end.

Now i need to decide where and how i'm going to mount the two amps and loc.

What are the options?
Could i mount them on a board under the parcel shelf?

If anyone has any pics of their setups that would be great.

[xjay1337]

Create a box.
Wouldn't do it on parcel shelf.
means you can't ever take anything big in your car.
running wires would be a nightmare.

my amp was under my false floor for my air ride .

[dazza]

I was thinking of mounting under the parcel shelf and making it removable.

Or having them on board against the back seats. Removable also.

When you say box you mean false floor? If i did this i'd like to get the sub in the floor also i hate the ebay side mount box. But my woodworking skills are sh*t. And i have OCD.

[ryder2012]

there is pleanty of space behind the head unit for the LOC.

using these (halfords sell them) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/160882563023?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&chn=ps&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0-L&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108

as for the amps, under the front seats is a pretty easy place as you have the seat bolts for the ground and pillars to route cables in and out of.

how are you wiring them in? i used 4 gauge cable from battery to a distribution block then 8 gauge to the amps and 8 gauge grounding to different spots as amps are in seperate places.

might seem silly saying it, but a few things to remember as easily overlooked,
fuse size; at the battery, make sure your running the right fuse size if your running 2 amps,
power lines one side, RCA's the other of the car.
trim clips...did you get a plastic pry bar to remove the trims?
other issues i had was a switched 12v source for the remote on. in the end i went over the 12v socket at the drivers ashtray with a multimeter to check it was switched, on mine it is so i wired in there.

[dazza]

I already have a monoblock amp under the drivers seat.
The 4 channel amp will not fit under the seat.
The LOC is massive i doubt it will fit behind the headunit.

Pic below with the two amps the smaller amp is the one i have under the seat at the moment.

I'm going to run 4 gauge to distributor block then 4 gauge to the amps.
The distributor block can also take 4 grounds so its best i get the amps close together.

100 or 120amp fuse off battery 50amp fuses for each amp.
The LOC has signal sensing and a remote out to send to the amps.

[ryder2012]

not sure running 4 to 2 4 is the best idea. if both amps require 4 gauge to operate then you will put too much load through the primary. if you only need 8 gauge from the block then your adding extra resistance. thats from a sparkie background.

up to you it will work but seems the extra resistance wont be a good thing long term.