3 Way Speaker Upgrade with AMP

[dazza]

The amps manual say 4 gauge is needed.

The 4 gauge from the battery is good for up to 150amps.

Running a 0 or 0/1 gauge to distributor block is a bit of an overkill?

[ryder2012]

if the either of the amps manual says to use 4 gauge from the battery to the amp, use 0 gauge from the battery > fuse > distribution block

then 4 gauge from the block to the amp

even if the cable is good for 150 amps, and your using amp fuse, if the fuse is faulty and doesnt blow in the event of an overload and the amp pulls 150+ amps you risk burning the wire out and setting fire to the car.

both my amps only need 8 gauge so i ran 4 gauge from battery to fuse and to the block then 8 gauge from the block to the amps.

[dazza]

I will be placing 50 amp fuses in the distributor block one for each amp.
With a 100amp or 120amp fuse off the battery. Surely this is safe?

[ryder2012]

the fuse rating in my last post was just an example.

the risk is one amp drawing enough amperage that the other amp drawing amps will go past the 4 gauge cables limits between the battery and the block.

when you google through for videos about multiple amps in cars they will tell you double the gauge wire from battery to block for that reason.

check it out ;)

0 gauge wire isnt too expensive and its best to run it just in case.

[ryder2012]

http://www.caraudiohelp.com/newsletter/multiple_amplifiers.html

[dazza]

fookit already bought the 4 gauge now. Went for KnuKonceptz 4 gauge kit its supposedly good quality. Will see how it compares against the budget 4 gauge i have at the moment.

There will be 3 fuses and the wire is good up to 150amps should be fine with these little amps.

[ryder2012]

well thats your car haha. check the amp manuals for maxmimum amperage draw and add them together, ensure they are WELL below 150 amps.

as for 3 fuses, you know thats going to give you a headache later if/when a fuse blows right? haha. its good to be safe and all though.

most will have the main fuse at the battery and the fuses in the amps. thats what im running, the fuse i have at the battery has a 3 amp leeway so it can only surge 3amps over the max amp drain of the 2 amps together.

budget/high end wire there is little difference, not when it comes to this size cable and application. speaker wires, video cables, very thin wires then yeah it will make a difference but this is big bulky cable. its all the same under different brands.

[dazza]

As i've said the amplifiers are 50amp so they are well below the 150.

Some amps don't have internal fuses hence the 2 in the distributor block.

I disagree regarding the power cable sometimes you do get what you pay for.

[ryder2012]

assuming it was purchased as 4 gauge, that is an illigal product as it cant handle the standard amperage for 4 gauge cable.

trading standards would love to see that.

[dazza]

Thats just a pic i found online.
I will post pics of my budget wire vs KnuKonceptz when i receive it.
I'm interested to see if there is a massive difference.

[ryder2012]

got to admit im quite interested too.

that thicker core cable, the fact you have the center core then seperate cores around it, doing it that way just makes the overal cable thicker, elctronically, its more of a draw back but it looks cool and keeps customers happy haha.

[dazza]

Pic of the KnuKonceptz 4 gauge vs the 4 gauge i used last time. Well worth the extra £10.

[Wookie]

Sorry I have lots of questions but didn't know whether to start a new thread or join this one.

1) Someone said the speaker pods you buy need trimming down.  Where and how much?

2) If I were to keep the standard head unit (i believe RNS500) I read somewhere on here as you turn the volume up the bass is reduced.  Can you turn this off and how?

3) If I chose to put some sound deadening in is it best to do a) behind the speaker (so outside of the door); b) around the speaker and or c) the back of the door panel?

4) Currently have the standard 3 ways in.  How much do I need to spend to get better speakers?  I have the old equivalent of the 6.5" JL TR650Csi (but not CSIs) 2 way component.  Whould this be an upgrade??

Thanks

[dazza]

Sorry I have lots of questions but didn't know whether to start a new thread or join this one.

1) Someone said the speaker pods you buy need trimming down.  Where and how much?

2) If I were to keep the standard head unit (i believe RNS500) I read somewhere on here as you turn the volume up the bass is reduced.  Can you turn this off and how?

3) If I chose to put some sound deadening in is it best to do a) behind the speaker (so outside of the door); b) around the speaker and or c) the back of the door panel?

4) Currently have the standard 3 ways in.  How much do I need to spend to get better speakers?  I have the old equivalent of the 6.5" JL TR650Csi (but not CSIs) 2 way component.  Whould this be an upgrade??

Thanks

1. I bought these they fit perfectly no cutting. http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0067TGH6Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

2. Not sure on this.

3. I deadened the inner and outer skin completely. I may even deaden the door card at a later date.
http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,90967.msg931272.html#msg931272

4. The more you spend the better IMO. I will have a set of ESK 165L and ESK 163L in the for sale section soon.

[Wookie]

Thanks Dazza. We are truly skint after buying the car and just want to use the equipment we already have.  Especially if we are going to need to buy a new radio.  And I have just forked out for some aftermarket headlights for my own ride.