Author Topic: White "Lion" Cupra - DSG converted track car (Read 97679 times)

AJP · « **Reply #255 on:** April 24, 2018, 09:52:02 am »

Love reading these updates! Just shows what these cars can do with the right upgrades and a good driver.

teo_parvu · « **Reply #256 on:** April 24, 2018, 10:20:58 am »

Thanks, man! I was woooow....surprised, how fast the car felt. I'm really hoping that the DSG will hold, that false neutral was not a good sign. I also find a bit strange how the Turbo S dropped 3 seconds after the break, I suspect a "party mode" for race sessions.

Shoduchi · « **Reply #257 on:** April 24, 2018, 11:42:53 am »

What petrol do you use on your races?

teo_parvu · « **Reply #258 on:** April 24, 2018, 11:47:43 am »

OMV MaxxMotion - we don't have Shell here anymore - they sold everything to Mol in 2004

Shoduchi · « **Reply #259 on:** April 24, 2018, 12:12:37 pm »

Quote from: teo_parvu on April 24, 2018, 11:47:43 am

OMV MaxxMotion - we don't have Shell here anymore - they sold everything to Mol in 2004

How many octanes? RON, AKI or MON rating?

teo_parvu · « **Reply #260 on:** April 24, 2018, 12:16:12 pm »

They are certified for 100+ RON
http://www.omv.ro/SecurityServlet/secure?cid=1255775795415&lang=ro&swa_id=1339121888339.5837&swa_site=

Shoduchi · « **Reply #261 on:** April 24, 2018, 12:35:52 pm »

That's very good! You can still test if the Nitrous Formula Race octane booster can allow you to push more your engine safely. At the highest concentration it was verified to increase the octane rating (RON) by 2,8. The best in ex eaquo with another brand
that was more expensive.

teo_parvu · « **Reply #262 on:** April 24, 2018, 01:39:04 pm »

Thanks! I should look into anything that can give me more power safely. I also need to get a bigger DSG cooler and more weight reduction. I have the worse weight/power ratio in my class now.
Sometimes when the oil is really hot I get pressure problems, I'm thinking that not buying the OEM 1.8T oil pump was a mistake. I bought Kolbenschmidt:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-kolbenschmidt-parts/engine-oil-pump/06a115105b~ks/

Maybe it's not OE quality. :/

pudding · « **Reply #263 on:** April 24, 2018, 03:05:41 pm »

Maybe you need this! https://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/2-0l-tfsi-main-bearing-girdle-kill-kit?number=21tf240

teo_parvu · « **Reply #264 on:** April 24, 2018, 05:08:06 pm »

I'll first try with a new OE pump, my mechanic has one for which i will pay only if the problem is solved.

pudding · « **Reply #265 on:** April 25, 2018, 09:44:30 am »

OK cool

I mentioned that kit because it also changes the oil filter housing to the metal spin on type. This is because the EA113 oil pump has the pressure regulator built in. This kit moves the regulator to the oil filter housing to maintain proper pressure. It might be why you have pressure issues running a 1.8T with shaft delete? Maybe a full delete is the solution!

teo_parvu · « **Reply #266 on:** April 25, 2018, 10:18:04 am »

I told you, you're the car master and I'm anything but...

I'm pretty sure that changing the oil pump will not solve anything, but my mechanic tells me that his solution with Suzuki Swift filter (allows higher pressure), Audi A4/Passat oil filter housing 06B115417F (it may have the regulator and that's why he is using it), 1.8T oil pump and balance shaft delete works and that I should've bought the OEM oil pump. So I just want to take this out of consideration. He will also check everything again . I'm now thinking that the oil pump might be too week for the extra radiator.

Because this is happening only when the oil is super hot and I'm on cooldown lap under 2000 rpms, I'll change again the oil from Motul 15W-50 to even thicker Millers CFS 10W-60 NT+, maybe it will help.