MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: Pesky jones on January 08, 2016, 11:09:15 am
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Going to have to replace the hub on the rear left wheel as the ABS strip on the bearing is playing up.
Does anyone have or know where to get the part number for the hub? I think I should get it from VW
Also if anyone has any advice that would be great
Tom
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I bought mine from a local factors for £40, been fine for 10K miles, VW were over a hundred quid!!!!!
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Need to do mine asap so picking a hub up tomorrow from eurocarparts for 67£
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Volkswagen_Golf_2.0_2005/p/car-parts/car-transmission/transmission-parts/wheel-bearing-and-wheel-hub/?628440301&1&5a539091f5f1bd4ea2cba645c4f022e7c18cab0e&000370 (http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Volkswagen_Golf_2.0_2005/p/car-parts/car-transmission/transmission-parts/wheel-bearing-and-wheel-hub/?628440301&1&5a539091f5f1bd4ea2cba645c4f022e7c18cab0e&000370)
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I think the one ive ordered is 32mm inner diameter, can anyone confirm this is correct for a 05 plate axx engine?
I just rang local eurocar parts and gave them my reg and they said they had one in stock. they said it was 67£ something so I assume the one in the above link is the one they've reserved for me -with 32mm inner diameter
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Also getting slightly confused by the tools needed.
I thought I wouldn't need any extra tools as I have changed the CV joint gaitor previously, but apparently I need a m18 spline and a m14 spline?
Anoyingly I bought a mspline set but it only goes up to 12mm. I don't remember having to use a spline to take the hub nut out when I swapped the CV joint on the front.
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You defo need the M18 and the M14. The M14 is to remove the caliper carriers to remove the disc. The M18 is for the bolt which holds the hub on. You'll need a big breaker bar as it's on bleeding tight!!!!
For the part number, check out http://www.partscats.info/volkswagen/en/?i=cat_vag_models&brand=vw&number=1714&set=1724&ein=2005&f=405&hauptgr=1234567890&hg=5&grf=050020194&bf=50020&hgug=500&ug=00&parent_id=1889347
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Ok picking up an m14,m16,m18 set and a breaker bar tomorrow aswell.
It's just weird, like I say I changed my CV joint and I could have swore that was just a normal socket size bolt. The only large spline I used there was the wheel locking bit to release the alloy off.
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Just as a side note, if you cannot undo the carrier bolts like I couldn't, it is possible to do it by just removing the caliper and leaving the carrier on. You have to leave the disc on while you remove the hub but as it comes off you will find you can twist the disc at an angle and slip it by the carrier. It should go by...JUST haha.
This was done on my S3 rears :happy2:
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Plenty good advice above but this type of job needs the backend jacked up to a good height if your going to break loose the carrier bolts with a long breaker bar. If your doing it outside on the drive you want a good safe set up as I've had a few real tight f**kers!
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Yeah I do plan on doing it on the drive.
Ive got axle stands, do you think I need to jack both rear wheels up? Or maybe the front and back wheels
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Everyone has a different take on safety so that's not an easy answer.
Just make the carrier bolt your first port of call - can you get it high enough too pull on the bar - the rest will be easy.
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You can never be too safe IMO. I usually put it on an axle stand slacken off the jack then bring it back up so its just touching. And put the wheel you take off under the sill.
I didn't get mine up high enough :ashamed: but managed to get them off from the top with the breaker bar sticking out of the wheel arch. Not recommended but thought i would share anyway. (tape on the wheel arch).
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fimages%2F20160108_191841_resized.jpg&hash=857166e2ccfde2526d60651116cebdbb074e558c)
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Sorry daz, didnt really understand that last bit?
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I got to the carrier bolts from the top you can get an idea from the pic above and i put some tape on the lip of the wheel arch to make sure i didn't scratch it.
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So I had a go today but I left it way too late, started at three and decided at quater to four it was going to get dark soon. Going to do it tomorrow a.m.
I got as far as taking the caliper and pads off. I see what people mean about it being hard to undo the m14 bolts.
I think il try and do it without taking the m14 bolts out. In this video, he appears to just slide the disc off without undoing the carrier. Is it that easy
@Matto (http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=4512) is this what you mean? I see you say that you left the disc on the hub, but in the video he takes the disc off
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You have to remove the disc or how does the hub and bearing come off :confused:
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@Peskyjones (http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=11854) I did it exactly how he does it in the video up until he removes the disc. You see him twist the disc to slide past the carrier but as I am running an S3 setup they are bigger and I had to start removing the hub at the same time while twisting the disc to give me enough room to remove the disc completely.
This was because as others have said, you need the car high enough to be able to use the breaker bar. Ideally on a ramp but a lot of us do work on the drive so I had to find a different method as I found it impossible to undo and even get on one of the bolts.
Hopefully this makes sense.
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You may be lucky and can get the disc off without removing the carrier. Worth a try.
Just keep hitting around it until it pops loose.
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It looks like he gets the disc off fairly easily in the video so hopefully I can just copy what he does. Thanks guys.
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Just gotta hope its the right 32mm hub! Apparently they do come in 30mm as well... :confused:
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Stupid idiots made two sizes :mad:
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Getting onto the carrier bolts are awkward but luckily I use the ramp at work
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I've replaced an A3 hub on the floor with a 1/2 ratchet job so can't be that difficult.
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I've replaced an A3 hub on the floor with a 1/2 ratchet job so can't be that difficult.
Every job is different. A recent thermostat change on my other car turned into a pita. After changing the thermostat on the golf with no problems it should have been an easy job.
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I've replaced an A3 hub on the floor with a 1/2 ratchet job so can't be that difficult.
Every job is different. A recent thermostat change on my other car turned into a pita. After changing the thermostat on the golf with no problems it should have been an easy job.
Valid point but same chassis. One can be smooth sailing and the other can have seized bolts or one you've just sheared and now buggered as to what to do lol
Peskyjones make sure you knock that tool in with a hammer so it's fully in and then undo the bolts???
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Is there any way of.knowing before hand which hub you have? Seems stupid that there wouldnt be to it.
What do you mean r5gtt, hammer in the m14?
Think im going to try do it without the m14 bolts removed. Plus if its hard to undo them, itll probably be hard to do them up torqued to the right spec
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Pleased to read your on with the job - again plenty good advice above but I would take the video with a pinch of salt (he couldn't loosen a securing fixing) what no impact driver?
Like I said if you can get to the carrier bolt (you can get it out) but you'll have to make sure the tool fits into the bolt snugly and if possible have an assistant to apply pressure to keep it there while you apply effort to the power bar.
I'll not kid you it's never easy outside on the drive doing a new task but if you do all the simple things well it will work out!
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Is there any way of.knowing before hand which hub you have? Seems stupid that there wouldnt be to it.
What do you mean r5gtt, hammer in the m14?
Think im going to try do it without the m14 bolts removed. Plus if its hard to undo them, itll probably be hard to do them up torqued to the right spec
I'm referring to all the securing bolts as rust will have set in and seized the bolts which is why I recommend you tap hammer the m14 and the rest into the bolts as mentioned above with a snug fit and you can't go wrong :happy2: a can of maintenance spray also goes a long way too :smiley:
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Its just the two m14 bolts and then the phillips screw, and the m18 left isnt it? I will make sure the m14 bit is.snug in.the.bolt. dont think il have anyone to help me out tbh
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Go out now with the torch and spray some WD40 on them.
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Its just the two m14 bolts and then the phillips screw, and the m18 left isnt it? I will make sure the m14 bit is.snug in.the.bolt. dont think il have anyone to help me out tbh
It's the bearing m18 you have to worry about as these will be a mother of a b to undo and that's me bot retrying to scare you :scared:. They'd be thr ones that'll need the m18 hammering which in turn also breaks some rust off to free them loose. I know because I've been there done that or similar as vauxhall have the spine type and are a beech too.
Don't fret as one man can do the job as you've got a lot of good advise off here so you can't go wrong :happy2:
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I have done that daz, but the wheel is back on now and I couldnt get my arm in, ive just gone for a spray and hope approach.
Im hoping I dont need to do the m14s anyway, in the video it looks like it will come out. Ive got a 3 foot breaker bar for the m18 so thay should be fine
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The bearing m18 wheel bearing I used the breaker bar with a jack handle
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So disaster has struck :scared: the t30 screw head has just disentigrated, I tapped it in but its pretty much turned into a circle now :( any advice? @maxitrol (http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=164)
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Drill it out
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But I dont have a replacement?
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Is this for holding the disc?
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Yeah the single t 30.
What about creating a grove for a flathead?
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Not worth the effort - as above drill the head off (the bit left normal comes out easy with the vice grips) to keep on with the job.
Don't worry about that bit (when building up its only to hold the disc in place) the disc will be ok when the pads and wheel is on to allow using it till you get the chance to pick a new fixing tomorrow.
Here's the part number of the part http://www.partscats.info/volkswagen/en/?i=cat_vag_models&brand=vw&number=1714&set=1728&ein=2007&f=474&hauptgr=1234567890&hg=6&grf=061516253&bf=61520&hgug=615&ug=15&parent_id=2347598&detail_id=2347610
You'll get something local today M6 x16 counter sunk at Halfords etc.
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You dont need that screw... its not required. Once youve drilled the head off it and removed the discs you should be able to get grip on the rest of the bolt and remove it.
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Ok guys cheers. Drilled the head off it. The disc still seems liek it wont come off. Ive given it a few whacks from the back with a plastic mallet I. Has the bolt shaft still got purchase on it? Really dont want to try and take the m14s out, the m14 bit I have is quite long so is really hard to get in.
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So ive undone the m18, and now the whole hub and disc moves, but the carrier is well in the way. Definitely needs to come off. Going to be a real pain
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Did you drill out the bolt?
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If your trying that method even at this stage the disc should be loose and move freely around the wheel hub - if it's not moving freely nip the M18 up and give the disc a good wallop with heavy metal hammer all round on the face were you just been drilling.
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wd40 does help too.
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Yeah ive driled the t30 bolt out.
The disc and hub does now move freely, since ive undone the m18. My problem now is undoing the m14s. So hard to get a decent angle. Im trying with all types of extenders etc. I dont think I can undo them with dazzas approach because my m14 bit is too long and I cant get the breaker bar into it. This would be so much easier or a lift! Grr
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Can you jack it up any higher? How much higher would it need to be to get your breaker bar on it.
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No cant jack it any further, ive got it pretty high. I got the breaker underneath it and it just about takes torque before it hits the floor lol
Im going to try for another hour or so then give up :( have to take it to a garage.
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Try to use the shortest extension you can if no one is pushing the the bit into the bolt for you!
If you've got the height off the ground,you'll get In just keep at it - but if you've not height then just build it back up cause I've never had a easy one to do on a drive yet! Then you can reorganise your access height and return to it knowing most of the job is pre-prepped and complete it then.
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No cant jack it any further, ive got it pretty high. I got the breaker underneath it and it just about takes torque before it hits the floor lol
Im going to try for another hour or so then give up :( have to take it to a garage.
where abouts are you--if your near Scotch corner i will do it for you
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turn the socket m18 around to suit???
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Thanks for all your help guys, really appreciate you taking the time to help but im afraid it has beaten me. Going to try get a garage to do the work :( so fustrating that it was just two bolts away from being done.
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make sure you tighten it all back up as I've heard some sorry stories about wheels falling off . :scared:
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I couldn't find torque settings for the caliper bolts but ive done them up really tight. The wheels I did to 120 nm and the hub bolt 200 nm which is what the haynes manual says
@maxitrol (http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=164) thats really kind of you but im about 100 miles away! Thanks anyway
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Don't give up. What length breaker were you trying to use? Maybe you can get a slightly smaller bar.
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Don't give up. What length breaker were you trying to use? Maybe you can get a slightly smaller bar.
Firstly well done on your efforts! :happy2:
I think the same as Dazza above or just get more height and give yourself time and you'll do it!
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Ah I would like to but I dont have the time! Im going to r-tech on friday and really should get it done before then. Thanks for your help again
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Rear hub replaced (30mm inner shaft diameter)
So far, it seems all problems have been solved. As mentioned earlier in thread, the hub contains a bearing, and the bearing has a magnetic strip which a sensor reads off. The connection between the two affects ABS, ESP, tyre pressure and speed readings. The magnetic strip can corrode over time which affects the readings from the sensor. New hub = new bearing = new magnetic strip = problem solved.
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Rear hub replaced (30mm inner shaft diameter)
So far, it seems all problems have been solved. As mentioned earlier in thread, the hub contains a bearing, and the bearing has a magnetic strip which a sensor reads off. The connection between the two affects ABS, ESP, tyre pressure and speed readings. The magnetic strip can corrode over time which affects the readings from the sensor. New hub = new bearing = new magnetic strip = problem solved.
Happy days :happy2:
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Nice one mate did you DIY it?
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No :sad1: As you know I tried, and if it weren't for my remap on Friday (needed to be done for this) then I would have found a way of getting more height, and possibly a 600mm breaker bar opposed to my 900mm one and im sure I would have been able to.
Next time mate.
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Get him to clear the fault for your drive home as you main have a faulty sensor.
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Get it scanned with VCDS for the fault code since it's just been cleared before your return journey - as I would expect you've got an ABS sensor on its way out.
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Yes the sensor is easier than the wheel bearing!
See what the fault the fault code is though.
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Ok will do thanks mate
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I had this problem with my Octavia VRS, one rear ABS ring went, replaced it cleared the codes, then a week later the other hub decided it had enough too!
I would check the other rear hub, as chances are, that maybe knackered also, being the same age (I'm guessing they haven't been replaced before?).
I also sympathise with removing the rear caliper bolts, I removed them quite easily on my VRS, but couldn't budge them on the Golf, due to clearance and having a moment of weakness :grin:
I hope you get it sorted mate :happy2:
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I imagine it would be the same as the first time? I dont have vcds, I can use my.uncles though. It seems like I had a corroded abs strip AND a dodgy sensor, seeing as before the hub change the dsg wasnt shifting properly and the.lights would come on at any speed.
Is abs sensor an easy diy?
It's a PITA. I replaced both at the same time so I was 100% sure I had fixed the problem. There was a load of issue getting the right abs sensor as there were about 5 different lengths ones!!! To get the old one out, you should be able to get away with removing the rear disc and tapping the sensor from the outside to the inside. I tried prying it out but it just broke!!!
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Yeah, they are different lengths, the only way you can tell is to get the old one out without damaging it (which I couldn't hahaha). I had to use the FEBI website, the local motor factors, TPS and ebay to work out which one I had. Bought a few and sent a couple back!
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@SiofChester (http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=2183) Can you confirm whether the post and video above is the process for changing the sensor?
Can you also let me know which sensor worked for you, as ill chance it as the same of yours. Also, what year is yours, is it a standard GTI and is it manual/DSG?
Thanks
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That's the theory but mine required a drift to get the sensor out, it was proper rusted in there so I had to take the disc off, not just "undo and remove" in a simple fashion.....
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That's the theory but mine required a drift to get the sensor out, it was proper rusted in there so I had to take the disc off, not just "undo and remove" in a simple fashion.....
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I see. So you got the bolt undone ok or was that what you had to drill? Fingers crossed on mine then. What sensor did you go for? Cheers
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So another update. Was in for a service today and asked them to have a look. Unfortunately there was only one guy there who could take the car out so he couldnt read the live data off the wheel properley. He also said when it got to forty it would kick him out of the diagnostic and he couldnt get back in without unplugging the cable and reinserting it. Im dropping it off for the.full day for them to look at it properly.
They think it might still be the hub, and that I got a dodgy one. They really doubt its the sensor. He said the eletrical plug was in good nick and clean. Im going to see what they say next Monday.
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The rear hubs can come with a protective cap cover which must be taken off (certain suppliers only and their instructions state removal pre fitting) - Who supplied your part?
This must not get mistaken for the bonded protective covering on the encoder disc.
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The rear hubs can come with a protective cap cover which must be taken off (certain suppliers only and their instructions state removal pre fitting) - Who supplied your part?
This must not get mistaken for the bonded protective covering on the encoder disc.
It was Euro carparts and I think they said it was manufactured by Lusas? I rang the garage and asked about the protective cap and they said they had. Perhaps it needs a genuine hub... havent read anywhere else where someone has replaced with a non genuine part and had these problems.
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Sorry to hijack the thread, I'm having the same problem. The warning lights go off once the cars restated and there isn't any faults logged, would they only come up in Vcds when the lights are on?
Now presuming it does will it tell me whether it's the sensor I need to change or the full hub?
Thanks.
Edit. My back drivers wheel has developed a slight squeal, well squeals the wrong word it sounds like a bird singing lol. And it's only when I turn aswell which seems strange.
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Thanks for that, I'll scan it next time they come on. Or is the abs ring only one one particular side?
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No, in each hub there is a bearing. On each bearing there is the ABS strip.