MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: DanED30GTI on July 25, 2016, 09:35:10 am
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Hi all,
Got an issue with the Eddy I need sorting asap. I need two new tyres but the locking wheel nut has been chewed. VW will them off for 27 pound with the master key, only problem is they want 75 quid for a new set of locking wheel nuts! Since this is the second set that has chewed Im a bit hesitant to pay that much for something that will no doubt chew up in the future!
Would something like these be ok?
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-accessories/locking-wheel-nuts/ripspeed-locking-wheel-nuts-bc1181
Anyone put none VW lockers on their car? any issues arise? Is this a case of genuine over aftermarket or will anything do?
Cheers!
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They will be fine. Or Mcgards.
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They look grand.
If this is the second time it happened then you or whoever is removing them is doing it wrong.
Firstly, never use an impact gun on your locknut.
Secondly, if you remove your wheel, wire brush the lock nuts clean and apply copper grease to the threads before refitting.
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Don't use copper grease on the threads! Just clean them and torque them up by hand to the correct rating!
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Don't use copper grease on the threads! Just clean them and torque them up by hand to the correct rating!
Why?
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Yeah, I've put it down to my local handyman.... cheap as he may be, this is the last straw!
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
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Because using copper slip can lead to over tightening and damaging of the threads, stretching etc. The torque figure quoted is not for wheel bolts covered in a helping of anti-seize compound
In the same sentence you also should not apply any cooper slip to the mating surface of the wheel etc. either
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I use aluminium anti seize on the mating surfaces between the discs and hubs. Its a lot cleaner than copper slip
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Anti-seize between the disc and hub is a lot different to it being between the disc and wheel, which relies on friction to hold it on/in place
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Because using copper slip can lead to over tightening and damaging of the threads, stretching etc. The torque figure quoted is not for wheel bolts covered in a helping of anti-seize compound
In the same sentence you also should not apply any cooper slip to the mating surface of the wheel etc. either
Ah yes, bringing me back to college days! Generally best engineering practice is to apply copper grease to bolts before installation. For this reason I had assumed VW had calculated this in when quoting their torquing specification.
The copper grease will reduce friction during tightening so yes in theory torquing to 120NM could be as high as 150NM.
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The locking nut usually gets buggered when some clown uses an air gun to do and undo them. 120 for the locking nut is seriously tight imho I just nip it up and torque the rest down. just saying :smiley:
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Anti-seize between the disc and hub is a lot different to it being between the disc and wheel, which relies on friction to hold it on/in place
Well its all located on the hub spigot anyway, so I cant see it making too much difference even if you did put a bit of anti sieze on it.
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The spigot plays no part in the load bearing of the wheel. The wheel is held in place through friction of the mating surfaces, which is why torqueing the wheel bolts up correctly is crucial, as is a clean mating surface not covered in copper slip or anything else that will decrease friction
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If the spigot was load bearing, you wouldn't be fitting these things to aftermarket alloy wheels :signLOL::
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.taperpro.co.uk%2F2012%2Fimages%2Fimg0029.jpg&hash=7b04a18c643610c6e624298629009006fe6f4491)
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The spigot plays no part in the load bearing of the wheel. The wheel is held in place through friction of the mating surfaces, which is why torqueing the wheel bolts up correctly is crucial
Shave off your spigot and do your wheel bolts up and see how well that goes for you. :signLOL:
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I have driven a car without correct spigot rings fitted actually..... The car drove absolutely fine once the alloys were lined up correctly, which is the sole job of the spigot - to correctly centre the wheel on the hub.
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If the spigot was load bearing, you wouldn't be fitting these things to aftermarket alloy wheels :signLOL::
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.taperpro.co.uk%2F2012%2Fimages%2Fimg0029.jpg&hash=7b04a18c643610c6e624298629009006fe6f4491)
:signLOL:
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I have driven a car without correct spigot rings fitted actually..... The car drove absolutely fine once the alloys were lined up correctly, which is the sole job of the spigot - to correctly centre the wheel on the hub.
Again Dan is correct and the only reason why people use spigot rings.
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So if i put anti seize on my hubs before I put my wheels on..... the wheels gonna fall off???
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That will definitely not happen as I've used copper ease on my tt with 15mm spacers and extended bolts on the rear and 20mm spacers up front but as Dan_FR mentioned that you can over torque them and strip the threads if you're a novice.
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You can. But then again you are not supposed to use anti seize on spark plugs but plenty of pros do.
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Best left to the pro's rich83 trust me I'm not a novice yet I've over tighted wheel nuts on my own motor :slap: it's so easy when copper slip is used as you think the bolts aren't tight and keep on torquing it down :surprised:
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IM not saying use it on wheel bolts. Im saying sometimes its used in situations where on paper you shouldnt.
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IM not saying use it on wheel bolts. Im saying sometimes its used in situations where on paper you shouldnt.
I know you're saying on the mating faces lol
I'm just putting it out there so no one else does :P
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Copper slip is fine on the thread but it must not be present on the torque face which is the radius seat in this case. Not even a trace.
In fact, if the threads become corroded and need a degree of torque to overcome the binding then you will not be applying the correct torque to the bolt.
Default advice is use no grease because the average punter will have no engineering savvy or even care and nobody can be held responsible.
And if the bolts are removed much more frequently then this practice will most likely be fine.
My bolts were knackered when I bought my car and consequently so were the hubs, well they were after I spent 4 hours with a 5 foot extension bar removing my wheels. All at 35k miles. Peter Cooper never usually remove the wheels during servicing unless access is needed, a tyre change or a pad change. They even do fluid changes with the wheels on. That's main dealer servicing for you and another story :fighting: