Post by: ReflexRob on January 07, 2018, 09:39:00 pm
I would be really grateful if people who have done their own strut removal could help as I can't get a 16 anywhere....
Post by: neilw on January 08, 2018, 09:38:18 am
Edit- Just looked at my ebay history Definitely M14
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bergen-1-2-DR-Impact-Spline-Bit-Socket-M14-X-78MM-1456/152597127043?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Get yourself a spreader tool as well there £5-6 on ebay, useful for this job.
You might find the whole job easier by leaving the hub and removing the whole lot by taking the caliper off. If I was doing the job again I'd do it that way. Depends on what you're replacing, if its the shock its got to come out anyway.
Post by: ReflexRob on January 08, 2018, 01:23:57 pm
Interesting about the brake caliper, do you have to take off the 3 bolts of the lower arm into the hub and then after releasing the top ,ount bolts and brake / abs lines from the bracket lift the whole assembly including disc out as well?
Post by: v4rley on January 08, 2018, 01:38:44 pm
Recently I have read you can punch the broken bolt out and use a standard nut and bolt.
Post by: pudding on January 08, 2018, 04:32:47 pm
Thanks Neil.
Interesting about the brake caliper, do you have to take off the 3 bolts of the lower arm into the hub and then after releasing the top ,ount bolts and brake / abs lines from the bracket lift the whole assembly including disc out as well?
Taking the whole lump off (less brake caliper/carrier/disc) in one go is fookin heavy, and you will need to remove the driveshaft bolt. And that means 2 x new bolts, a 200nm capable torque Wrench, a 27mm socket and a breaker bar long and stiff enough turn the bolt a further 180 degrees in one smooth motion.
I have a 3/4" 4 foot breaker bar and a few 3/4" sockets for the 'big jobs' like that.
There are probably other methods, but I find it dead easy doing it this way:
Remove the strut pinch bolt.
Remove the lower ball joint nuts.
Remove Track rod end (with a Splitter tool if ally hubs, otherwise club it with a hammer)
Remove driveshaft bolt.
Undo top mount
Out she comes.
I know some folk wrestle with it after removing as little as possible, but I prefer a simple life, and it's not a race. Plenty of time when doing it DIY style :smiley:
Post by: ReflexRob on January 08, 2018, 09:51:18 pm
Post by: ReflexRob on January 08, 2018, 10:27:04 pm
Your route seems a bit longer....?
Post by: pudding on January 09, 2018, 08:52:05 am
That wasn't a problem, pretty easy. Pop the spreader in, turn it 90 degrees, whack the hub with a rubber or plastic mallet and it drops down no problem.
The main issue is getting enough room to pull the strut out from under the wing. The only way I could push the hub down far enough was to remove the driveshaft and lower ball joint. I might have been able to wrestle it out without detaching the tie rod as well, but I removed that as well as it's easy enough.
Post by: ReflexRob on January 09, 2018, 09:41:11 am
I definitely don't want to pull the drive shaft!!!! The Pelican guide doesn't say this so I remain optimistic!
Whilst waiting for the spreader tool to arrive I had a look at where it should go and found a pretty small rusty looking hole! I hope it works!
Post by: pudding on January 09, 2018, 09:55:52 am
If you can push the hub down far enough to lift the strut out and then negotiate it out of the arch without removing the driveshaft, it certainly saves a lot of time.
If you have to remove the driveshaft, it's dead easy. It's a good time to replace knackered CV boots!
Post by: ReflexRob on January 10, 2018, 10:05:37 pm
Tried both front struts, no separation from the strut at all.
I think the age of these cars is going to hamper maintenance more and more nowadays.
Edit, is the spreader tool supposed to go in horizontally?
Post by: Rigsby on January 11, 2018, 10:07:22 am
Post by: MIJ_JAGGER on January 11, 2018, 10:19:29 am
Post by: pudding on January 11, 2018, 10:52:18 am
Post by: ReflexRob on January 11, 2018, 12:27:03 pm
I tried the chisel method - that didn't get anywhere either!
I soaked it in PlusGas again and will have another go tonight. Surely mine can't be any worse than other daily driven early Mk5's? It's only got 80k on the clock too......
Post by: neilw on January 11, 2018, 01:11:06 pm
Didn't explain that very well - what I meant was does the tool go in the notch gap vertically from underneath or do you put it into the gap on the side of the hub where the locator slides down and twist it in a horizontal axis?
I tried the chisel method - that didn't get anywhere either!
I soaked it in PlusGas again and will have another go tonight. Surely mine can't be any worse than other daily driven early Mk5's? It's only got 80k on the clock too......
Put the tool into the slot in the hub from the back of the hub, then twist the tool 90 degrees to open up the slot a few mm get some WD40 in there too. I then hit the hub (Steel) with a hammer and slowly slowly it worked its way off. The tool will probably pop out or twist as you hit, stop and put it back in.
Post by: pudding on January 11, 2018, 01:33:49 pm
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Flz7w.com%2Fgallery3%2Fvar%2Falbums%2Fttrsmods%2Fmssinstall%2FIMG_0602.jpg&hash=caef9c9e8ed70ed3e6b0776fa3c6a555cdae7a77)
Post by: ReflexRob on January 11, 2018, 05:19:44 pm