MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => How to Guides / Troubleshooting => Topic started by: jimmy-s3 on April 23, 2011, 01:30:44 pm
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My guess is sensor for the cam position :confused:
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Thanks but....
Anyone got a more definate answer?
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Its the VVT sensor/actuator.
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Anyone know how much these are? Mines snapped like that one.
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VVT sensor/actuator?
As in Vairiable valve timing?
What would the effects of this not working be?
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reduced performance mainly. VVT variable valve timing. it basically alters when the valves open mostly at higher revs . best car to feel this working on is properly a civic tyre r i think most people have being in one of them :smiley:
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Cheers!
I think that may be the cause of my car not running as smooth in the higher rev range!
Can anyone provide me with a part number for this?
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Did a fault code not come up for this? Its obviously damaged but its maybe just the casing thats damaged and the internal wiring is still OK?
Would make sense if you're having issues though.
Is there a thread with the issues you are having?
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No fault code came up!
Im not sure if the wiring is damaged or not?
Theres two wires that i can see and one of the looks like its oxidising(gone green).
I cant find any other threads with this problem either!
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I mean do you have a thread with the issues you're having?
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http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,25065.0.html
Id started this thread a while back.........
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Whats the part name for this? I want to order this part today but not sure the correct name for it?
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Just try VVT unit/sensor.
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ETKA often lists these along the lines of Camshaft Timing Actuator :happy2:
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Ordered the part today.
Camshaft impulse sender unit! £31. :happy2:
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Just been to collect the part today and guess what....its the wrong part!
It took another 30+minutes for VW to identify the part, but finally they did it.
Known as just a "control valve" part number 06F 109 257C and its £74ish.
Im gunna remove mine and take it to be tested to make sure it is faulty before buying a new one, the plastic connector is snapped but i think the wiring may be ok.
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Silly idiots. Thought it'd be more than that lol
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Ordered the part today.
Camshaft impulse sender unit! £31. :happy2:
Or cam position sensor.
Are you getting any fault codes for the cam control valve thingy?
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No fault codes...
Im still getting a missfire in the higher rev range tho. Not sure wether its linked?
Ive cleaned the MAF sensor a few times with carb cleaner so i dont think its that at fault.
Did i mention earlier i only noticed the damaged part after it came back from VW having had the coilpacks replaced!!! AND the main air pipe from the air filter housing/MAF sensor air pipe to the turbo had been pulled off...
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Is the car mapped?
There were/are issues with valve float at high rpm that can cause missfires.
I guess you had the coilpacks replaced to try and solve this missfire issue? Did the plugs get changed too?
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I've just changed 4 weeks old spark plugs due to misfires :fighting:
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I changed the plugs about 2000 miles ago.
Im thinking its not exactly a missfire now, as i said in my other thread, the car seems to 'hold back' sort of when i drive it from cold. When i start the car from cold ive checked and the tumble flap motor opens or closes(not sure which way round it works) as it should and the car goes into the 'cold the start sequence' (revs go up slightly to warm the engine), then after a few seconds or maybe a minute the revs drop down to normal again which is fine and normal(the tumble flap motor opens or closes again).
My problem is the car wont drive properly during this 'sequence'. It seems to 'hold back' until the tumble flap motor finishes its 'sequence'.
Now this is nearly the exact feeling i get when driving in the high rev range.
Ive heard the 'tumble flap' sequence works at low and high revs but just cant get my head round what could be the problem with it???? :confused:
http://dpham00.info/gti/ssp/diagrams/tumble%20flap.jpg
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Also, ive just remembered i had a fault code come up a while back.
Does anyone know this code 01809 actuator motor temp flap? Would this be a connected issue?
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Anyone??? :sad1:
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Still trying to solve this problem.
Had the car vagcom'd today with no faults stored?
I might try disconnecting the power supply to the tumble flap actuator tonight and see how it drives from cold in the morning! just to try and eliminate the tumble flaps as being at fault!
Just found this infomation below, Im now wondering if its something to do with that?
The 2.0L turbocharged engine operates in
two modes.
Cold Start Dual Injection
Dual injection is a special mode of operation
for rapid heating of the catalytic converter.
To do this, a quantity of fuel is injected on
the intake stroke at approximately 300˚
before TDC of ignition. The fuel distributes
itself homogenously due to the long gap
before ignition. The second injection occurs
at approximately 60˚ before TDC of ignition
during the compression phase.
The rich mixture that forms around the spark
plug means that timing can be retarded to
a considerable degree without affecting
engine stability.
Dual injection also achieves stoichiometric
(14.7:1) optimum air/fuel ratio. With the
exhaust valves open, the exhaust temperature
inceases rapidly bringing the catalytic
converter up to operating temperature 662°F
(350˚C) very quickly (30–40 seconds).
This is soooo difficult to diagnose :sad1: