MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: baldwined30 on September 06, 2011, 02:00:00 pm
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Hi, bit worried that, as above, my dipstick smells of oils! Ive heard this is a problem. I did try searching but to no avail! i have changed my cam follower with in the last few months so im guessing its not that! any ides what it maybe? Can you instal the follower wrong???? :sad1: :sad1: :sad1:
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It could be the Internals worn or the seal on the fuel pump.
New fuel pump I am afraid and put your internals back in!
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bollocks!!! I think the guy that did it never put it together properly!! think ill just book it in at AMD, dont really wanna be spending any more!!!!
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Any ideas how to remove the fuel pumps valve??? Seems I've f*cked the head up and now I can't get the thing out! Frustration doesn't quite cover it!!!
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It's impossible to fit the cam follower the wrong way as it only fits one way.
Have you got different internals in (Autotech, KMD etc)? as this is a problem associated with that type of piston design.
Which valve are you after removing? The schraeder type valve on the side (the bit that's like a tyre valve)? If you have fooked the head of that up you can knock a smaller sized socket on it to get it off. You can also buy that valve on its own for about £3 from a dealer (I did the same thing)
If it's the actual internals you want to remove then the process is a bit more involved and requires the pump to be removed.
If you just have a standard OEM pump then as has been mentioned maybe your internals or seal has gone (i'd be surprised though if it's standard).
A new OEM pump costs circa £180 from a stealer and if you have fitted the cam follower yourself you should have no problem fitting the new pump yourself.
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Your best off sticking with apr pumps for piece of mind, if you have gone down the uprated internals route.
I might be selling my apr pump soon if you are after buying a new one :wink:
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It's impossible to fit the cam follower the wrong way as it only fits one way.
Have you got different internals in (Autotech, KMD etc)? as this is a problem associated with that type of piston design.
Which valve are you after removing? The schraeder type valve on the side (the bit that's like a tyre valve)? If you have fooked the head of that up you can knock a smaller sized socket on it to get it off. You can also buy that valve on its own for about £3 from a dealer (I did the same thing)
If it's the actual internals you want to remove then the process is a bit more involved and requires the pump to be removed.
If you just have a standard OEM pump then as has been mentioned maybe your internals or seal has gone (i'd be surprised though if it's standard).
A new OEM pump costs circa £180 from a stealer and if you have fitted the cam follower yourself you should have no problem fitting the new pump yourself.
just bought a new one off TPS, getting the old one off is gonna be a sod! i have well and truly messed it! I will have a look at the seal etc before i look to buy another pump! AMD essex stated that its ptreyy much the same thing only that APR bench test theirs!
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Utter Bollox.
APR Piston is a single diameter and Autotech/KMD etc have a stepped piston. The step in the piston forces fuel past the energised seal as a liquid doesn't compress and it has no where to go.
It's just a question of how long your seal lasts. Some last 5k miles mine lasted 50k miles before i replaced with APR
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Dont forget, its normal for a petrol cars oil to smell a bit of petrol.
Go sniff a few other dipsticks before spending any cash.
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Dipstick sniffer :rolleye:
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Well i will take the FB off and have a look at the seal. After ive got that nut off! got a lovely new one to put it as well!!!!
felt good as did the S3 intercooler last night and today i mess up a bolt!!!
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1113.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk515%2Fbaldwined30%2FIMG-20110906-00309.jpg&hash=9a72f6536b4bfc14b62d5752ede1764e4bd21a16)
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Utter Bollox.
APR Piston is a single diameter and Autotech/KMD etc have a stepped piston. The step in the piston forces fuel past the energised seal as a liquid doesn't compress and it has no where to go.
It's just a question of how long your seal lasts. Some last 5k miles mine lasted 50k miles before i replaced with APR
Just what i was told by AMD!! they are both hitachi tough arnt they??
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The APR pump is an OEM pump which has had a larger diameter piston installed and a few other bits. Main bit is the piston though. It is then fully tested before being sold.
The KMD/Autotech internals are not tested to the same level as the APR.
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Well i hope i dont have to buy a new pump! fed up spending money on the thing! just wanna enjoy it! I guess that is all part of the "fun"
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I did the same thing you did to the valve on my pump. I knocked an 11mm socket onto it iirc to get it off an then replaced the valve. I'll dig the part no. for the valve out later when I get in from work.
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Dont forget, its normal for a petrol cars oil to smell a bit of petrol.
Go sniff a few other dipsticks before spending any cash.
I agree!
Mine smells of petrol as I do short runs to work each day, on a long run the smell disappears. Direct injection cars are known for this.
I've had a new pump and now APR pump, the oil smelt of petrol with both after short runs.
Is your oil level rising and do you have any backfiring?
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Well i have well and truly buggered that bolt trying to remove it from the pump. It wont budge from its housing and the mole grips are killing it! Im not fussed as i have a new one but worried i cant remove this old valve!! huge help required!!!!!
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Do you have the new valve already?
If so the way i got mine off was to knock a smaller sized socket on to it. Normal size is 13mm iirc and i think i used an 11mm socket to get it off.
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Mine looked like this
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fdaz.co%2Fmedia%2Fww275%2FTaufe%2FP1000950.jpg&hash=78777203771dda81c0ef0be9b58176438c963552)
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Utter Bollox.
APR Piston is a single diameter and Autotech/KMD etc have a stepped piston. The step in the piston forces fuel past the energised seal as a liquid doesn't compress and it has no where to go.
It's just a question of how long your seal lasts. Some last 5k miles mine lasted 50k miles before i replaced with APR
Utter bollox it may be but the APR is a rip off.
If it's assembled correctly as per instructions in a clean environment then the 50k miles is available.
What are they £600-£700.
Loads of people have Autotech with no issues and I would buy again.
You could buy it all twice over and then you have all new again in regards to a 50k APR!
Just my opinion but the APR seems hyped up and over priced.
:popcornsoda:
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Well i have well and truly buggered that bolt trying to remove it from the pump. It wont budge from its housing and the mole grips are killing it! Im not fussed as i have a new one but worried i cant remove this old valve!! huge help required!!!!!
Try pipe grips instead the right way round as they grip tighter the harder you turn.
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So the general concencus is the APR is good for 50k? Only 10k to go! :scared:
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Yea i have the new one but i cant even get a 12 mm on there! Iv e even bent the lower valve section where ive clapped the mole grips around it!! I was worried that i had f*cked it so much not only was it stuck but it would no longer work! it does still hold the fuel for now! Is brass easier to work on maybe when its colder?? Im all out of ideas!!
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Well i have well and truly buggered that bolt trying to remove it from the pump. It wont budge from its housing and the mole grips are killing it! Im not fussed as i have a new one but worried i cant remove this old valve!! huge help required!!!!!
Try pipe grips instead the right way round as they grip tighter the harder you turn.
thats good idea! Right now im pretty close to throwing what ever i have in my hand the car windscreen!!! :fighting: :fighting: :fighting:
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So the general concencus is the APR is good for 50k? Only 10k to go! :scared:
No i was referring to the Autotech.
Utter Bollox.
APR Piston is a single diameter and Autotech/KMD etc have a stepped piston. The step in the piston forces fuel past the energised seal as a liquid doesn't compress and it has no where to go.
It's just a question of how long your seal lasts. Some last 5k miles mine lasted 50k miles before i replaced with APR
Utter bollox it may be but the APR is a rip off.
If it's assembled correctly as per instructions in a clean environment then the 50k miles is available.
What are they £600-£700.
Loads of people have Autotech with no issues and I would buy again.
You could buy it all twice over and then you have all new again in regards to a 50k APR!
Just my opinion but the APR seems hyped up and over priced.
:popcornsoda:
My Autotech lasted 50k Miles and i fitted mine on my dads driveway.
You are correct you could buy Autotech/KMD internals twice over. But the other damage you are causing is not a good idea and it may fail completely. I wouldn't want to be running round with oil that is being diluted by Petrol :scared:
At the end of the day you pays your monies and you makes your choice. If my new car had a TFSi engine instead of the TSi and i were changing pumps then i would be going APR.
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Yea i have the new one but i cant even get a 12 mm on there! Iv e even bent the lower valve section where ive clapped the mole grips around it!! I was worried that i had f*cked it so much not only was it stuck but it would no longer work! it does still hold the fuel for now! Is brass easier to work on maybe when its colder?? Im all out of ideas!!
Brass is quite soft compared to the rest of the pump. Try knocking an 11mm deep socket on to it (Not a spanner or ratchet) and then get it off that way.
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I'll just add that my oil has a slight petrol whiff to it and has done for the last two years since I first noticed. Fully standard. Given the bugger regularly needs topping up with oil I figured there isn't that much going into the sump to cause any problems :rolleye:
To a certain extent its normal but its hard to know whats OK and what isn't.
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i should of asked before i completely mangled my brass valve! gods its awful!!! looks as though i will have to get a garage to get it off, but want a good one so they dont mess the thread on the pump!!!!
(https://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi1113.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk515%2Fbaldwined30%2FIMG-20110906-00310.jpg&hash=4142baf25531928c6c5645c050228e20dde13bf8)
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all i wanted to do was check the smell!!!1
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So the general concencus is the APR is good for 50k? Only 10k to go! :scared:
:popcornsoda:
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So the general concencus is the APR is good for 50k? Only 10k to go! :scared:
:popcornsoda:
If you see my response a few posts up i said i was referring to the Autotech not the APR.
The Autotech/KMD failings can range from 5k miles to 50k miles or more. There is no set pattern to the failures.
However i have yet to read anything of an APR failure (Although i'm sure a Google warrior will find a thread somewhere and post it up :evilgrin:)
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So the general concencus is the APR is good for 50k? Only 10k to go! :scared:
:popcornsoda:
If you see my response a few posts up i said i was referring to the Autotech not the APR.
The Autotech/KMD failings can range from 5k miles to 50k miles or more. There is no set pattern to the failures.
However i have yet to read anything of an APR failure (Although i'm sure a Google warrior will find a thread somewhere and post it up :evilgrin:)
Thanks :happy2:
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HELP ME WITH MY NUT :jumping: :jumping: :rolleye: :rolleye:
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However i have yet to read anything of an APR failure
Not straight forward but here you go.
http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=155515
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HELP ME WITH MY NUT :jumping: :jumping: :rolleye: :rolleye:
Decent Molegrips are the way forward. Grip on the flats (what's left of them) as tight as you can go. Did you release the fuel pressure?
Don't open the drivers door whilst that valve is out.
:happy2:
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However i have yet to read anything of an APR failure (Although i'm sure a Google warrior will find a thread somewhere and post it up :evilgrin:)
Not straight forward but here you go.
http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=155515
Speak of the devil and he shall appear :evilgrin: :grin:
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my ones are pretty crap and hungry for brass, yea released the pressure! ive been trying for ages! i dont know if i can face any more!!!! Whats more annoying is i fitted my S3 intercooler last night with no problems!!!! WTF!!!!!
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Have you got a 10 or 11mm Deep Socket?
Thats what i used not mole grips. They are on fairly tight, but not normally that tight, and i had to replace mine as i had tightened it too much when i fitted the Autotech internals.
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carl, where abouts are you buddy!? Ill prob have another go at some point but right now im out of gas! Would it be better when its cool? I have got a socket that will go on it yes! I dont remember putting it in that tight!!
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where are you in uk?
Is there a Screwfix near you?
These are fantastic for removing damaged nuts etc.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-5-piece-bolt-grip-nut-remover-set/96028?cm_mmc=Google-_-Keywordless%20Ads%20|%20Generic-_-HVK%20|%20Keywordless%20Ads%20|%20Broad-_-_cat:screwfix.com&gclid=CO_cwdCdiasCFZQOfAodUB8P0g (http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-5-piece-bolt-grip-nut-remover-set/96028?cm_mmc=Google-_-Keywordless%20Ads%20|%20Generic-_-HVK%20|%20Keywordless%20Ads%20|%20Broad-_-_cat:screwfix.com&gclid=CO_cwdCdiasCFZQOfAodUB8P0g)
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carl, where abouts are you buddy!? Ill prob have another go at some point but right now im out of gas! Would it be better when its cool? I have got a socket that will go on it yes! I dont remember putting it in that tight!!
I'm near Salisbury mate.
I would remove your intake so you can get decent access and then gently but firmly tap on the Socket. Then use that to get it off. You have done too much damage now to get it off with mole grips and unless you can get the Nut extractor that QD has linked then a socket will be your best bet.
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Well theres yea took the intake off! Think I tightened it first thats whats messed it up! Think I will order one of these sets now! That will save me shelling out for a new pump!! Wouldnt mind but im 29 not 19!!!
Cheers Fellas!!!!
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What about a stud extractor.. I used to use it for removing cylinder head studs effectively ..
Snap On tools make one
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Eezee outs would do it.
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Thanks guys!! Any pics so I order the right thing!! Thanks chaps!
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SNAP-ON-Stud-Remover-7-16-1-2-/130521585150?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item1e63b155fe#ht_500wt_689
Goes upto 1/2 inch so should fit
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How does that work?? I know I'm being thick!!
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If you put a Ratchet in the top and turn it, the more you turn, the tighter it bits without looking like a hamsters chewed the valve :signLOL:
It's a great tool. . It says it opens to half inch which should be big enough to go over the valve and enable you to turn it to undo it :happy2:
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I know, I'm ashamed of the bodge!! I can't wait to get it out! Think ill go srew fix and get that tool! It looks soooo awful!!!! Do you think a garage will be able to get tit out?
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TBH I don't think that Snap on Stud extractor tool will work, could be proven wrong, and happy to be so, but the end portion of the valve is hollow, and that tool works by gripping (hence squeezing) a stud to remove.
Unless you can get it flush with the pump body (ie gripping on the full length - which will be difficult)
You need to grip on the hexagonal (what is left of it) part. Hence the need for a Nut/Bolt extractor, and my advice to grip the most solid area (the Hex area)
As i say happy to be proven wrong. :happy2: Just my experience and thoughts.
Hope you get it out soon. I have a set of the Irwin Bolt/nut removers only after experiencing them at work, and have used them on various parts of a helicopter and on brake caliper bolts that had rounded on a MK3 Golf, and they do the job very well.
:happy2:
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Yes, it's only brass mate, so a stud extractor will get that out no problem.
ask at you local garage, most good engineers should have one, and will know what you need mate :happy2:
Snap on's stud extractor tightens on the widest part... That being the old hex head of the valve, and not the body.
my only concern is whether it will get enough purchase on it, and they normally undo long Cylinder head studs unto 19mm on some sized extractors with ease.
All else fails, get a pair of Molsons :signLOL:
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Remove the whole pump assembly and use a vice, a proper set of mole grips and clamp them tight.
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Remove the whole pump assembly and use a vice, a proper set of mole grips and clamp them tight.
Problem is, I can't get the pump off as that valve is in the way of one of the T30 bolts!
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Get yourself to a local tool shop, Halfords, machine mart etc... And get a small pair if stilson grips or mole grips and should come out easily.
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Get yourself to a local tool shop, Halfords, machine mart etc... And get a small pair if stilson grips or mole grips and should come out easily.
To be honest the mole grips I used wre sh*te and old!! I'm on my way to work and can't stop thinking about it! Haha how sad!
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Just to add, i have 65k on my Autotech internals.
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Just bought my iwrins bolt removal kit!! Wish me luck!!!
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Just bought my iwrins bolt removal kit!! Wish me luck!!!
...........keep us posted :happy2: & good luck. :wink:
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Well if it doesn't work, look out for it in the for sale section hahah! Cheers gents!!
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Well if it doesn't work, look out for it in the for sale section hahah! Cheers gents!!
Would that be the car or the pump? :laugh:
Good luck :happy2:
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Prob both!!!!
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Dont know if this is relevant or not, but I had some brake calipers with the same sort of situation.
The line that conects the two sides of the calipers was damaged, so when I went to remove the brass insert I stripped it totally and I totally rounded it off, and tried everything to get it off and failed.
I took it to the maintenance techs at work, they ran it under hot water for a few minutes and got it really hot, then just used mole grips and it came straight out with the slightest of efforts.
maybe if you can get some heat into it, who knows....
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Funny you say that, a friend of mine told me to use a heat gun on the brass, he works for BMW and has done for some time. I had to remind him that it was the FUEL PUMP though hahaha
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have you ever tried touching the fuel pump after youve been on a run? Its too hot to touch anyway, Ive burnt my fingers in the past when I had autotech issues, bit of heat might be ok :stupid:
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Yea its pretty hot!! I thought most things expand when hot???
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yeah but different metals expand at different rates hence when they heat the caliper the body expanded quicker than the bolt :P good luck to the OP and as long as he doesnt use a naked flame to heat the bolt he should be ok :rolleye:
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Did it work I'm intrigued now? I hope it did for your mental state of mind.
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Mumma mia!! Few turns, started to eat the the valve again! Thought, great another waste of 25 quid, then click, GRAB engaged off she came! Those irwins bolts are brilliant, I now have a beautiful new valve in, tightened very gingerly by a 13mm hex head!! God I was relieved!!! Thanks chaps!! I can sleep now!!! :pomppomp: :smiley:
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Good bits of kit.
:happy2:
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So pleased I can't tell you!!!
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So pleased I can't tell you!!!
You could try... :laugh:
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:congrats: