MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: jedi-knight83 on July 20, 2012, 08:18:22 pm
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So... having swapped intakes 2-3 times recently I'm wondering if I may have damaged my MAF? (I might have dropped it once)
There is no fault on VAGCOM but im now back on my stock intake and I've just done 100 miles since resetting the ECU (I changed my steering controller last night so the battery was off for an hour or so)
50 miles from cambs to milton keynes today and i got 26mpg on the way there which was 80mph on the dual carriage way and then stop start traffic
50 miles back and got 28mpg JUST with slightly lighter traffic.
Straight after my Rtech map i was easily getting 30mpg on the run home and that was with me boosting everywhere enjoying the map... so something has changed
Car is also quite lumpy at idle.
I'm back at Rtech tuesday but if its a dodgy MAF i want to change it asap as it will be a wasted trip if its not running right..
So can a MAF be slightly faulty but not show up as a fault... or is it like a switch.. IE it either works or it doesn't?
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How old and how much mileage do you have on the maf?
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How old and how much mileage do you have on the maf?
2006 car 65k
like i say it was running great before I started chopping and changing intakes so either its STILL adapting or I've damaged it a bit or its something unrelated but coincidence on timing..?
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If it's dirty yes. What intake do you have any other mods? Buy some electrical cleaner and spray the inside of the maf so it's soaking. Do this a few times. And then leave it 30mins to dry.
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I have one for sale here
http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,47590.msg583775.html#msg583775
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If it's dirty yes. What intake do you have any other mods? Buy some electrical cleaner and spray the inside of the maf so it's soaking. Do this a few times. And then leave it 30mins to dry.
Ive got electrical contact cleaner from maplins. Is this the stuff?
I'll give it a go tonight.
Is there ANY remote chance that doing this will break it? AS i 100% need my car tomorrow morning.
I had an ITG but ive removed it and running stock now. Also got CAT back milltek and Stage 1
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That's the stuff. I do it to my maf every time I remove it for longish periods of time. Never had a problem. It will be absolutely fine doing this though. Failing this not solving your problem get the vcds and log the car
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That's the stuff. I do it to my maf every time I remove it for longish periods of time. Never had a problem. It will be absolutely fine doing this though. Failing this not solving your problem get the vcds and log the car
ha MORE logging... i've logged loads recently..
Which blocks inparticular? I've probably already done them :)
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If it's dirty yes. What intake do you have any other mods? Buy some electrical cleaner and spray the inside of the maf so it's soaking. Do this a few times. And then leave it 30mins to dry.
so just to tripple clarify.. take the maf out and spray the maf where the air will flow inside it/over it/through it etc
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Intake Air Mass g/s one as I believe the maf logs this figure.
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If it's dirty yes. What intake do you have any other mods? Buy some electrical cleaner and spray the inside of the maf so it's soaking. Do this a few times. And then leave it 30mins to dry.
so just to tripple clarify.. take the maf out and spray the maf where the air will flow inside it/over it/through it etc
Not on the outside as you will be wasting cleaner. Just inside intill its soaking. It dry pretty quick. And even wet can be fitted as the stuff evaporates.
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Intake Air Mass g/s one as I believe the maf logs this figure.
ive got loads of logs with that..
what kind of readings would indicate its faulty?
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Post it up. Is it a log since you been having bad idle and mpg? Also when you say lumpy are your revs moving up and down or does the car wobble a bit.
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Post it up. Is it a log since you been having bad idle and mpg? Also when you say lumpy are your revs moving up and down or does the car wobble a bit.
Just been out and sprayed lots in the MAF. It goes ice cold but ive popped it back in the MAF housing and I'm not driving the car till morning so will give it plenty of time to dry.
It just seems a bit lumpy. doesnt seem to actually rev itself.
I'll find the link to the log.
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It just seems a bit lumpy. doesnt seem to actually rev itself.
What pcv do you have?
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It just seems a bit lumpy. doesnt seem to actually rev itself.
What pcv do you have?
a brand new OEM one as of 4 weeks ago.
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Have you observed if there are any differences in engine revs and lumpyness if you partially pull out the dip stick?
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Have you observed if there are any differences in engine revs and lumpyness if you partially pull out the dip stick?
i'll check tomorrow. It should almost stall when you remove the dipstick shouldnt it
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Have you observed if there are any differences in engine revs and lumpyness if you partially pull out the dip stick?
just checked.
removed the dipstick and it changes a bit and you can hear a hissing noise. Doesnt want to stall as much as it used to when i did this test though.
I tried opening the oil filler and it started spluttering more than with the dipstick out.
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Disconnect the MAF and see what it does. It will throw a light on the dash and generate a fault code but if the car drives normally (and it should) then it's your MAF. :happy2:
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Disconnect the MAF and see what it does. It will throw a light on the dash and generate a fault code but if the car drives normally (and it should) then it's your MAF. :happy2:
dont get this theory?
So the car should run without the MAF connected? and if it runs fine with no MAF.. then the MAF is faulty?
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Disconnect the MAF and see what it does. It will throw a light on the dash and generate a fault code but if the car drives normally (and it should) then it's your MAF. :happy2:
dont get this theory?
So the car should run without the MAF connected? and if it runs fine with no MAF.. then the MAF is faulty?
Yes.
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Disconnect the MAF and see what it does. It will throw a light on the dash and generate a fault code but if the car drives normally (and it should) then it's your MAF. :happy2:
dont get this theory?
So the car should run without the MAF connected? and if it runs fine with no MAF.. then the MAF is faulty?
Yes.
The obvious next questions then is... why does it need a MAF if it will run fine without one?
I probably wont have chance to test this tomorrow but maybe sunday.
how far should i drive with it disconnected?
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Cleaning the MAF seems to have made no difference to MPG
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Lumpy idle? I don't think it is the maf personally. Could be a number of things bad fuel, map ect.... I have had the odd bad fuel days but week after its normal again I put it down to weather or fuel.
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It just seems a bit lumpy. doesnt seem to actually rev itself.
What pcv do you have?
a brand new OEM one as of 4 weeks ago.
Which revision? Im sure i heard that some revisions cause engine running problems?
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I always run v power fuel.
Not sure which Pcv. Rtech fitted it when I was there last.
When driving the car actually feels brilliant. Very powerful. Just mpg is rubbish and when warm it seems lumpy on idle. Didn't notice it when it was cold though.
Map was fine before I started messing with intakes.
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Agh.... so coming home tonight all was going well.. I was cruising along steady at 80mph all the way and was into the 30sMPG... went to put my foot down in 6th.......NOTHING
Felt like a 1.6 fiesta... no power.. no turbo...
No warning lights and everything sounded ok (ie no boost leaks etc)
Its happened one time before about 6 months ago before Id ever messed about with intakes.. I pulled over and turned the car off and on and the problem went away.
This time I turned off and on and it was still the same.. like its in limp mode but without any warning lights.
So I carried on driving as I was almost home.. then after 5 mins I put my foot down again and its back to normal and stays normal all the way home!?!?
WTF?
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The obvious next questions then is... why does it need a MAF if it will run fine without one?
I probably wont have chance to test this tomorrow but maybe sunday.
how far should i drive with it disconnected?
Sounds like your problems are multiplying but to answer your question it's probably so you have belt and braces although it's easier to measure what's coming in the front of the engine at the front in the air intake.
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The obvious next questions then is... why does it need a MAF if it will run fine without one?
I probably wont have chance to test this tomorrow but maybe sunday.
how far should i drive with it disconnected?
Sounds like your problems are multiplying but to answer your question it's probably so you have belt and braces although it's easier to measure what's coming in the front of the engine at the front in the air intake.
Tell me about it!! Getting a bit fed up with it now so Im going to go out drinking lol
Spend hours upon hours looking at this forum and then hundreds and thousands of pounds buying bits and then more hours fitting them and then it doesnt run properly!!!
Stupid thing! :signLOL:
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So anything that could cause the turbo to just stop working like that?
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Worn cam follower caused that on mine
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Worn cam follower caused that on mine
So it could be causing the hpfp to cut?
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anyone else have any ideas?
drove perfectly on the way home last night so not a clue what was up with it saturday night.
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I experienced a similar situation on a previous map - crusing on motorway in 6th, went to boot it and nothing happened. No warning light or fault codes. After approx 10-15 seconds of rolling, the boost would return.
This happened a few times, but only on motorway and only under full load at approx 3k rpm.
Went to a JKM rollling road day, and had a graph that looked like a rollercoaster - up nicely to 3k, then dropped slightly and then continued up to the redline. Peak power, it actually made more than a Revo stage 1 car on the day, but mid-range (mid-dip) i was down approx 35bhp.
JKM looked at the car, and the map was requesting more fuel than the HPFP could deliver, causing fuel cuts, but oddly with no faults logged. I changed maps and now also run an APR HPFP & all is good.
I am not stating or implying that your R-tech map is causing your problem, but in my case, my fuel pump was weak & couldn't meet the demand of the map (which was not an R-tech map). I'd speak to Nick when you're up there this week.
Do you know when your cam follower was last changed? if not, as others have stated, it could be an idea to change it.
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I experienced a similar situation on a previous map - crusing on motorway in 6th, went to boot it and nothing happened. No warning light or fault codes. After approx 10-15 seconds of rolling, the boost would return.
This happened a few times, but only on motorway and only under full load at approx 3k rpm.
Went to a JKM rollling road day, and had a graph that looked like a rollercoaster - up nicely to 3k, then dropped slightly and then continued up to the redline. Peak power, it actually made more than a Revo stage 1 car on the day, but mid-range (mid-dip) i was down approx 35bhp.
JKM looked at the car, and the map was requesting more fuel than the HPFP could deliver, causing fuel cuts, but oddly with no faults logged. I changed maps and now also run an APR HPFP & all is good.
I am not stating or implying that your R-tech map is causing your problem, but in my case, my fuel pump was weak & couldn't meet the demand of the map (which was not an R-tech map). I'd speak to Nick when you're up there this week.
Do you know when your cam follower was last changed? if not, as others have stated, it could be an idea to change it.
Thanks.
I doubt the cam follower has ever been changed.
The previous time it happened was before the R-Tech map so its not just their map.
This was also while cruising at 80mph on the M25 and then put my foot down and no turbo but it did accelerate SLOWLY!
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did you find out what was causing the turbo to stop working ? as im having the same problem at the minute !!