MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: holepunch on March 20, 2013, 12:48:19 pm
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For several months now my car really splutters into life on a cold start, however if I was to restart the car straight away, say after the engine has run for 2 seconds its abolsoutly fine. Also if when I open the driver’s door and I can hear the fuel pump priming its starts fine first time but this (hearing the fuel pump prime) only happens intermittently now.
I have checked the wiring harness which connects the door to the main body of the car for cracks and also replaced the door control module (for a separate issue). The car has recently had its plugs changed and a new Bosh silver battery, so I'm pretty sure this problem has got to be down to this fuel pump in some way.
Has anyone had any experience in checking the function of the pump, had it replaced or could offer any further advice?
Thanks in advance.
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I've got exactly the same issue. I changed plugs, fuel filter and had the battery checked.
Sometimes the car really splutters into life and other times it catches first time. I had the autotech hpfp internals fitted before Xmas as I'm building up to go stage 2 and this has made zero difference to the starting issue.
It is really annoying and to be honest its embarrassing! Dont get me wrong the car has never not started but obv something isnt right.
It worries me that if I ever came to sell the gti buyers would be put off by the way it starts.
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Same problem experienced here! Always starts up first time but can sometime hesistate?
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I heard that this is a common issue on the cars and there isn't much that can be done to solve it. How true this is I don't know.
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May be worth checking the lpfp rail pressure with vcds to see all is within spec.
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May be worth checking the lpfp rail pressure with vcds to see all is within spec.
Not sure if this will help as when the priming pump works it starts fine its just its not always operating when I open the drivers door.
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I wrote this on a similar thread:
I poured my heart and soul into trying to fix my cold start issue, and even had VW UK involved. They diagnosed injectors which were sent away and cleaned, this made no difference even though tests (by the company that cleaned them) showed an improvement. After that I replaced:
Plugs
Fuel Filter
I had the coil packs replaced as part of the recall.
Anyway just keep that key turned until its running – some days mine fires straight up, some days I can feel it splutter and as you say takes a while to catch. My car had 19K on it when I got it, it’s not got 64K on it and it’s never got any worse.
I recently had to replace my PCV valve and this has transformed the IDLE, but hasn’t helped with the cold starts.
As your mechanic says, some of the TFSI engines need a few more turns that others and is attributed to the HPFP needing to build pressure on the rail.
I spent quite a while worrying about this, my honest advice to you is to forget about it and enjoy the car :happy2:
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I wrote this on a similar thread:
I poured my heart and soul into trying to fix my cold start issue, and even had VW UK involved. They diagnosed injectors which were sent away and cleaned, this made no difference even though tests (by the company that cleaned them) showed an improvement. After that I replaced:
Plugs
Fuel Filter
I had the coil packs replaced as part of the recall.
Anyway just keep that key turned until its running – some days mine fires straight up, some days I can feel it splutter and as you say takes a while to catch. My car had 19K on it when I got it, it’s not got 64K on it and it’s never got any worse.
I recently had to replace my PCV valve and this has transformed the IDLE, but hasn’t helped with the cold starts.
As your mechanic says, some of the TFSI engines need a few more turns that others and is attributed to the HPFP needing to build pressure on the rail.
I spent quite a while worrying about this, my honest advice to you is to forget about it and enjoy the car :happy2:
Do you hear the priming fuel pump working when you open the door?
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Nope, mine at this point was silent but I can usually hear it now
The tech put his hand on the bottom of the fuel tank as I got into the car and he could feel it prime. People will tell you to log rail presures, check your battery cranking power - trust me I've done it all.
Some days my car turns and fires straight up, others it requires a few more turns before it splutters and catches. As I say I spent quite a bit of time (and money) on this.
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My 58 plate GTI does this too , glad its not just me! (PS my 2005 GTI was perfect , never had this issue at all , is there a chance that it is an issue with BWA engines only and AXX cars dont get it?)
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I always found the longer you leave the ignition on before starting, the better the start was (up to a point).
Mine stumbled into life after a couple of turns if I only have it a few seconds to prime. If I have it 15 seconds it was much better :happy2:
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Had to replace my lpfp at 85k. Not cheap either at £230 from stealers
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Had to replace my lpfp at 85k. Not cheap either at £230 from stealers
Im sure they are cheaper than that? I do the ttrs pump for £275.
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Had to replace my lpfp at 85k. Not cheap either at £230 from stealers
Anybody know the revised Lpfp part number?! Im under the impression it’s ‘1K0919051DB’ but there is also a ‘1K0919051CL’ pump revision from the original ‘1K09191051AB’ fuel sender unit on my ‘BWA’ GTi
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I’m so glad yous are all talking about these sluggish starts as I am having the exact same problem! I’ve only had my GTI since September and thought it was either the battery (recently installed a new one, made very little difference) or the starter motor. Sounds like more of a complicated problem however.
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I have the same issue.
4 page thread about it here:
http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,114226.0.html
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The only difference between the old and new pumps is the old one has a lid, the new one doesn't. The early pumps could overheat on long journeys, especially if the fuel level is 1/4 or lower.
You could fire the parts cannon at the car and replace it, but it makes sense to buy a cheap fuel pressure tester from Amazon and see what pressure you're seeing when you open the door, and/or pulsing the ignition a few times.
I'm pretty sure the engine starts and runs from the in-tank pump only until the ECU commands high pressure from the mechanical pump, therefore there can be a few seconds of crap running if the in-tank is on it's way out. The high pressure pump can't be outruled either.