MK5 Golf GTI
All Things Mk5 => Mk5 General Area => Topic started by: clubsport on May 13, 2014, 07:40:09 pm
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Looking at a car to purchase, it is not exactly near to home so most of the correspondence has been online. I haven't actually seen the car in the metal.
Recently serviced, but needs a cambelt, so that is taken into account...seller has their price etc...
Latest pictures show the discs, the car has 30k miles on it, so I assume the discs are original. Approx 600 miles since MOT at VW main dealer without advisories.
The car hasn't been used for a couple of months.
I think the corrosion has got to these discs beyond surface rust, will they clean up after a few hundred miles?
I not familiar with the quality of VW discs in terms of how the corrosion sets in, so would appreciate your thought.
Cheers.
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They'll clean up no problem :happy2:
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Give it some left braking and tidy them up
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
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Yes, once you have braked a few times they will be ok
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Thanks for your thoughts, I am quite surprised I thought the rust looked in grained.
I appreciate discs and pads are consumables, but prefer to stagger the expense!
Cheers.
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80mph-0 with a heavy right foot will sort that surface rust no problems
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recently serviced but no cambelt, great garage who serviced it eh? i'd rather take the time and effort in changing the cambelt before carrying out a service.
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It was serviced at a VW specialist, I assume the seller didn't want the expense at the time.
Very few miles since service, hardly used. I'll have to take the chance of driving it home with the original cambelt, living on the edge!
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not being funny mate, but by looking at them pictures the vw specialist also forgot to service the brakes too, them pads don't look like they've been out. can't see any copper grease anywhere. maybe negotiate on you getting it all done properly yourself.
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To be fair, if the car passed an MOT days before the service at the specialist, brakes would only be an inspection item. Service was oil, filter, pollen etc..
I am sure the brakes looked better when the car was used, before it sat around not being used.
Of course, if I was happy with how they looked, I wouldn't have posted asking about their condition.
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Those centre caps will cost £60 to replace by the way. :sick: Noticed the white oxidisation on one of them in your photo.
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To be fair it does look like the cars not been used for a long time but I could be wrong, its all down to how genuine the seller is.
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Give it a few emergency stops & it will all scrub off
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not being funny mate, but by looking at them pictures the vw specialist also forgot to service the brakes too, them pads don't look like they've been out. can't see any copper grease anywhere. maybe negotiate on you getting it all done properly yourself.
Who services brakes?? :confused:
Pads usually don't come out until they need replacing.
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not being funny mate, but by looking at them pictures the vw specialist also forgot to service the brakes too, them pads don't look like they've been out. can't see any copper grease anywhere. maybe negotiate on you getting it all done properly yourself.
Who services brakes?? :confused:
Pads usually don't come out until they need replacing.
ya what? every proper mechanic and garage service brakes, it stops pads seizing in the carriers and it also stops build up on the brake discs by filing the edges flat whilst there apart, also by doing it makes a big difference to the feel of the brake pedal once done, those who don't, usually end up replacing the discs well before they're worn out from bad maintanance due to them having a build up of corrosion on the inner and outer edges and also on the inner side center of the disc.
the only people who don't do it i find are the likes of the main dealers, they conduct this check and report from a visual check whilst looking through the wheel, this isn't always a acurate diagnosis as they can't inspect the inner brake pads. as for this long life servicing, i hate the thought of my car not getting serviced for 20,000 miles. i stick to the old fashioned 6,000 miles if it's lucky.
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not being funny mate, but by looking at them pictures the vw specialist also forgot to service the brakes too, them pads don't look like they've been out. can't see any copper grease anywhere. maybe negotiate on you getting it all done properly yourself.
Who services brakes?? :confused:
Pads usually don't come out until they need replacing.
ya what? every proper mechanic and garage service brakes, it stops pads seizing in the carriers and it also stops build up on the brake discs by filing the edges flat whilst there apart, also by doing it makes a big difference to the feel of the brake pedal once done, those who don't, usually end up replacing the discs well before they're worn out from bad maintanance due to them having a build up of corrosion on the inner and outer edges and also on the inner side center of the disc.
the only people who don't do it i find are the likes of the main dealers, they conduct this check and report from a visual check whilst looking through the wheel, this isn't always a acurate diagnosis as they can't inspect the inner brake pads. as for this long life servicing, i hate the thought of my car not getting serviced for 20,000 miles. i stick to the old fashioned 6,000 miles if it's lucky.
What Rubbish :stupid:
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not being funny mate, but by looking at them pictures the vw specialist also forgot to service the brakes too, them pads don't look like they've been out. can't see any copper grease anywhere. maybe negotiate on you getting it all done properly yourself.
Who services brakes?? :confused:
Pads usually don't come out until they need replacing.
ya what? every proper mechanic and garage service brakes, it stops pads seizing in the carriers and it also stops build up on the brake discs by filing the edges flat whilst there apart, also by doing it makes a big difference to the feel of the brake pedal once done, those who don't, usually end up replacing the discs well before they're worn out from bad maintanance due to them having a build up of corrosion on the inner and outer edges and also on the inner side center of the disc.
the only people who don't do it i find are the likes of the main dealers, they conduct this check and report from a visual check whilst looking through the wheel, this isn't always a acurate diagnosis as they can't inspect the inner brake pads. as for this long life servicing, i hate the thought of my car not getting serviced for 20,000 miles. i stick to the old fashioned 6,000 miles if it's lucky.
What Rubbish :stupid:
25 years being a mechanic and 8 years owning my own garage says I'm right.
But if you think it's rubbish please prove it, don't just reply with a useless comment without any sort of evidence to show what I wrote was rubbish. :notworthy:
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not being funny mate, but by looking at them pictures the vw specialist also forgot to service the brakes too, them pads don't look like they've been out. can't see any copper grease anywhere. maybe negotiate on you getting it all done properly yourself.
Who services brakes?? :confused:
Pads usually don't come out until they need replacing.
ya what? every proper mechanic and garage service brakes, it stops pads seizing in the carriers and it also stops build up on the brake discs by filing the edges flat whilst there apart, also by doing it makes a big difference to the feel of the brake pedal once done, those who don't, usually end up replacing the discs well before they're worn out from bad maintanance due to them having a build up of corrosion on the inner and outer edges and also on the inner side center of the disc.
the only people who don't do it i find are the likes of the main dealers, they conduct this check and report from a visual check whilst looking through the wheel, this isn't always a acurate diagnosis as they can't inspect the inner brake pads. as for this long life servicing, i hate the thought of my car not getting serviced for 20,000 miles. i stick to the old fashioned 6,000 miles if it's lucky.
What Rubbish :stupid:
25 years being a mechanic and 8 years owning my own garage says I'm right.
But if you think it's rubbish please prove it, don't just reply with a useless comment without any sort of evidence to show what I wrote was rubbish. :notworthy:
:congrats: :congrats:
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not being funny mate, but by looking at them pictures the vw specialist also forgot to service the brakes too, them pads don't look like they've been out. can't see any copper grease anywhere. maybe negotiate on you getting it all done properly yourself.
Who services brakes?? :confused:
Pads usually don't come out until they need replacing.
ya what? every proper mechanic and garage service brakes, it stops pads seizing in the carriers and it also stops build up on the brake discs by filing the edges flat whilst there apart, also by doing it makes a big difference to the feel of the brake pedal once done, those who don't, usually end up replacing the discs well before they're worn out from bad maintanance due to them having a build up of corrosion on the inner and outer edges and also on the inner side center of the disc.
the only people who don't do it i find are the likes of the main dealers, they conduct this check and report from a visual check whilst looking through the wheel, this isn't always a acurate diagnosis as they can't inspect the inner brake pads. as for this long life servicing, i hate the thought of my car not getting serviced for 20,000 miles. i stick to the old fashioned 6,000 miles if it's lucky.
What Rubbish :stupid:
25 years being a mechanic and 8 years owning my own garage says I'm right.
But if you think it's rubbish please prove it, don't just reply with a useless comment without any sort of evidence to show what I wrote was rubbish. :notworthy:
where is your garage?
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I've never seen a garage take your brakes apart in a standard service, maybe they are all penny pinching and doing the bare minimum these days??
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not being funny mate, but by looking at them pictures the vw specialist also forgot to service the brakes too, them pads don't look like they've been out. can't see any copper grease anywhere. maybe negotiate on you getting it all done properly yourself.
as quoted -when we do a service we strip the brakes down and do them properly but we are old skool :grin:..Some dealers now charge extra to do this
Who services brakes?? :confused:
Pads usually don't come out until they need replacing.
ya what? every proper mechanic and garage service brakes, it stops pads seizing in the carriers and it also stops build up on the brake discs by filing the edges flat whilst there apart, also by doing it makes a big difference to the feel of the brake pedal once done, those who don't, usually end up replacing the discs well before they're worn out from bad maintanance due to them having a build up of corrosion on the inner and outer edges and also on the inner side center of the disc.
the only people who don't do it i find are the likes of the main dealers, they conduct this check and report from a visual check whilst looking through the wheel, this isn't always a acurate diagnosis as they can't inspect the inner brake pads. as for this long life servicing, i hate the thought of my car not getting serviced for 20,000 miles. i stick to the old fashioned 6,000 miles if it's lucky.
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not being funny mate, but by looking at them pictures the vw specialist also forgot to service the brakes too, them pads don't look like they've been out. can't see any copper grease anywhere. maybe negotiate on you getting it all done properly yourself.
Who services brakes?? :confused:
Pads usually don't come out until they need replacing.
ya what? every proper mechanic and garage service brakes, it stops pads seizing in the carriers and it also stops build up on the brake discs by filing the edges flat whilst there apart, also by doing it makes a big difference to the feel of the brake pedal once done, those who don't, usually end up replacing the discs well before they're worn out from bad maintanance due to them having a build up of corrosion on the inner and outer edges and also on the inner side center of the disc.
the only people who don't do it i find are the likes of the main dealers, they conduct this check and report from a visual check whilst looking through the wheel, this isn't always a acurate diagnosis as they can't inspect the inner brake pads. as for this long life servicing, i hate the thought of my car not getting serviced for 20,000 miles. i stick to the old fashioned 6,000 miles if it's lucky.
What Rubbish :stupid:
25 years being a mechanic and 8 years owning my own garage says I'm right.
But if you think it's rubbish please prove it, don't just reply with a useless comment without any sort of evidence to show what I wrote was rubbish. :notworthy:
How on earth would i prove it ? Having been involved in the motoring world for 34 years i believe i have some knowledge on the subject too .
We differ in opinion and you are entitled to yours
If the process you describe was part of servicing a modern car do you not think it would be mentioned somewhere in the instruction of new Mechanics ? Is it taught at any College or contained in any service manual that you know of ? Is it ? No , i think is the answer . If it would add time to a service schedule and Main Dealers would definitely do it as it would add another £100 labour to their bill , etc etc
Old cars may need the brakes looked at due to peace of mind but not as a service job
Why would there be signs of copper grease on the wheels ? Surely someone using copper grease would clean up the mess ?
You would only remove brake pads if you were changing them :innocent:
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Part of my city and guilds mechanics course was of course about brakes, if all people did was just remove brake pads and replace them with new, you'd eventually end up with a build up of rust and corrosion on the caliper carrier that holds the brake pads in place and eventually the caliper sliders seizing, this then would not let the brake pad move freely in the carrier, resulting in a siezed or sticking brake that worse come to worse could boil the brake fluid and result in loss of the brake pedal, I've seen it many times. This is what I call brake servicing, where on every car I service the first job is to remove the wheels and strip the brakes, to see if anything needs replacing, if not the pads are all wire brushed down, uneven edges on the pad filed down, corrosion on the brake discs chipped and filed off, then the caliper carrier thoroughly cleaned to ensure the pads can move freely, a little copper grease applied to the top and bottom of the pads and grease and on the caliper sliders, then put back together. wire brushing the end of the hub to ensure the wheel doesn't become stuck on the hub and again a small amount of copper grease, and spray the brake pipe unions with waxoyl.
I can agree not all garages do this , like I said good mechanics and garages I know of do, it's called a proper service, none of this check and report bull. For those who call getting a oil and filter change a service, it's not, it's a lubricant change. Just the other day there was a thread stating a fellow member had a sticking brake, it's all due to lack of real proper servicing. Oh and just for good measure you'll clearly see I mention nothing about copper grease on any wheels. I was referring to not seeing any copper grease on the brake pads.
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Would you really do that what you describe every time a car came into you for service ?
If it is i would suggest you post your details on here as many of us would love a service like that :smiley:
Every time i get a new car i take it to bits and go over it with a fine tooth comb . The amount of time you find that the bolts on the wheels are too tight and no lubricant/grease on them is virtually guaranteed , same with the face of wheel onto the hub , also corroded and un lubricated . The issue with brakes can generally be overcome with a steam clean and a spray lubricant/grease without dismantling . Perhaps a regular off roaded LR or similar might have a drastic corrosion to cause brake issues - yes . After my initial exam and grease etc i wouldn't do it again , i never have a car more than 4 years .
You must have been under the guidance of an older mechanic to be like you are ? If only the £100 labour rates we pay nowadays actually meant a decent job being done , not many good people about nowadays
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Every time i get a new car i take it to bits and go over it with a fine tooth comb . The amount of time you find that the bolts on the wheels are too tight and no lubricant/grease on them is virtually guaranteed , same with the face of wheel onto the hub , also corroded and un lubricated . The issue with brakes can generally be overcome with a steam clean and a spray lubricant/grease without dismantling . Perhaps a regular off roaded LR or similar might have a drastic corrosion to cause brake issues - yes . After my initial exam and grease etc i wouldn't do it again , i never have a car more than 4 years .
Do you really mean that you use grease on wheel studs/nuts? :laugh:
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DDM was taught by a old mechanic and that was me :signLOL:We at work strip the brakes down on a service-Know lot of dealerships that don't do this or charge extra to do the brakes
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Would you really do that what you describe every time a car came into you for service ?
If it is i would suggest you post your details on here as many of us would love a service like that :smiley:
Every time i get a new car i take it to bits and go over it with a fine tooth comb . The amount of time you find that the bolts on the wheels are too tight and no lubricant/grease on them is virtually guaranteed , same with the face of wheel onto the hub , also corroded and un lubricated . The issue with brakes can generally be overcome with a steam clean and a spray lubricant/grease without dismantling . Perhaps a regular off roaded LR or similar might have a drastic corrosion to cause brake issues - yes . After my initial exam and grease etc i wouldn't do it again , i never have a car more than 4 years .
You must have been under the guidance of an older mechanic to be like you are ? If only the £100 labour rates we pay nowadays actually meant a decent job being done , not many good people about nowadays
Is that an apology :booty:???
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DDM was taught by a old mechanic and that was me :signLOL:We at work strip the brakes down on a service-Know lot of dealerships that don't do this or charge extra to do the brakes
I was indeed bud, sadly enough i can remenber it well, if only they were as easy to work on as they use to be lol. :happy2:
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Would you really do that what you describe every time a car came into you for service ?
If it is i would suggest you post your details on here as many of us would love a service like that :smiley:
Every time i get a new car i take it to bits and go over it with a fine tooth comb . The amount of time you find that the bolts on the wheels are too tight and no lubricant/grease on them is virtually guaranteed , same with the face of wheel onto the hub , also corroded and un lubricated . The issue with brakes can generally be overcome with a steam clean and a spray lubricant/grease without dismantling . Perhaps a regular off roaded LR or similar might have a drastic corrosion to cause brake issues - yes . After my initial exam and grease etc i wouldn't do it again , i never have a car more than 4 years .
You must have been under the guidance of an older mechanic to be like you are ? If only the £100 labour rates we pay nowadays actually meant a decent job being done , not many good people about nowadays
yes mate i do it everytime, i am very old skool by the way i was taught to do things, and to be honest i've had no complaints so far, i like my customers to know that when they get their car back it's good for at least another 6k miles, it just wouldn't be right if they were to come back a month later for brakes after i'd supposingly serviced it. people with no mechanical background wouldn't except that imo.
on the plus side if anyone would like any work carried out please feel free to ask. :drinking:
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Would you really do that what you describe every time a car came into you for service ?
If it is i would suggest you post your details on here as many of us would love a service like that :smiley:
Every time i get a new car i take it to bits and go over it with a fine tooth comb . The amount of time you find that the bolts on the wheels are too tight and no lubricant/grease on them is virtually guaranteed , same with the face of wheel onto the hub , also corroded and un lubricated . The issue with brakes can generally be overcome with a steam clean and a spray lubricant/grease without dismantling . Perhaps a regular off roaded LR or similar might have a drastic corrosion to cause brake issues - yes . After my initial exam and grease etc i wouldn't do it again , i never have a car more than 4 years .
You must have been under the guidance of an older mechanic to be like you are ? If only the £100 labour rates we pay nowadays actually meant a decent job being done , not many good people about nowadays
yes mate i do it everytime, i am very old skool by the way i was taught to do things, and to be honest i've had no complaints so far, i like my customers to know that when they get their car back it's good for at least another 6k miles, it just wouldn't be right if they were to come back a month later for brakes after i'd supposingly serviced it. people with no mechanical background wouldn't except that imo.
on the plus side if anyone would like any work carried out please feel free to ask. :drinking:
will you do mine as i don't have time with having 5 kids :grin:
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Every time i get a new car i take it to bits and go over it with a fine tooth comb . The amount of time you find that the bolts on the wheels are too tight and no lubricant/grease on them is virtually guaranteed , same with the face of wheel onto the hub , also corroded and un lubricated . The issue with brakes can generally be overcome with a steam clean and a spray lubricant/grease without dismantling . Perhaps a regular off roaded LR or similar might have a drastic corrosion to cause brake issues - yes . After my initial exam and grease etc i wouldn't do it again , i never have a car more than 4 years .
Do you really mean that you use grease on wheel studs/nuts? :laugh:
Why not ? Do you not know how Studs and nuts keep tight ?
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When I was a mechanic, on a standard service, the wheels would be removed and because at the time most cars had drums on the rear, the drums would be removed, drums, wheel cylinders shoes and adjusters checked and cleaned then adjusted. The front pads, calipers and discs visually checked, and that's it
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Every time i get a new car i take it to bits and go over it with a fine tooth comb . The amount of time you find that the bolts on the wheels are too tight and no lubricant/grease on them is virtually guaranteed , same with the face of wheel onto the hub , also corroded and un lubricated . The issue with brakes can generally be overcome with a steam clean and a spray lubricant/grease without dismantling . Perhaps a regular off roaded LR or similar might have a drastic corrosion to cause brake issues - yes . After my initial exam and grease etc i wouldn't do it again , i never have a car more than 4 years .
Do you really mean that you use grease on wheel studs/nuts? :laugh:
Why not ? Do you not know how Studs and nuts keep tight ?
I'm well aware of how nuts and studs and suchlike work.
Do you understand about torque values, and lubrication of threads of torqued bolts etc.?
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I've personally never known or worked in a garage that services front brakes unless specified during a routine service.
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Every time i get a new car i take it to bits and go over it with a fine tooth comb . The amount of time you find that the bolts on the wheels are too tight and no lubricant/grease on them is virtually guaranteed , same with the face of wheel onto the hub , also corroded and un lubricated . The issue with brakes can generally be overcome with a steam clean and a spray lubricant/grease without dismantling . Perhaps a regular off roaded LR or similar might have a drastic corrosion to cause brake issues - yes . After my initial exam and grease etc i wouldn't do it again , i never have a car more than 4 years .
Do you really mean that you use grease on wheel studs/nuts? :laugh:
Why not ? Do you not know how Studs and nuts keep tight ?
I'm well aware of how nuts and studs and suchlike work.
Do you understand about torque values, and lubrication of threads of torqued bolts etc.?
Yes - :happy2:
http://www.engineersedge.com/wwwboard/posts/13070.html
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Every time i get a new car i take it to bits and go over it with a fine tooth comb . The amount of time you find that the bolts on the wheels are too tight and no lubricant/grease on them is virtually guaranteed , same with the face of wheel onto the hub , also corroded and un lubricated . The issue with brakes can generally be overcome with a steam clean and a spray lubricant/grease without dismantling . Perhaps a regular off roaded LR or similar might have a drastic corrosion to cause brake issues - yes . After my initial exam and grease etc i wouldn't do it again , i never have a car more than 4 years .
Do you really mean that you use grease on wheel studs/nuts? :laugh:
Why not ? Do you not know how Studs and nuts keep tight ?
I'm well aware of how nuts and studs and suchlike work.
Do you understand about torque values, and lubrication of threads of torqued bolts etc.?
Yes - :happy2:
http://www.engineersedge.com/wwwboard/posts/13070.html
By lubing the wheel studs your basicaly over tighting the studs.
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Every time i get a new car i take it to bits and go over it with a fine tooth comb . The amount of time you find that the bolts on the wheels are too tight and no lubricant/grease on them is virtually guaranteed , same with the face of wheel onto the hub , also corroded and un lubricated . The issue with brakes can generally be overcome with a steam clean and a spray lubricant/grease without dismantling . Perhaps a regular off roaded LR or similar might have a drastic corrosion to cause brake issues - yes . After my initial exam and grease etc i wouldn't do it again , i never have a car more than 4 years .
Do you really mean that you use grease on wheel studs/nuts? :laugh:
Why not ? Do you not know how Studs and nuts keep tight ?
I'm well aware of how nuts and studs and suchlike work.
Do you understand about torque values, and lubrication of threads of torqued bolts etc.?
Yes - :happy2:
http://www.engineersedge.com/wwwboard/posts/13070.html
So you'll already know that applying grease or oil based products to wheel bolts will possibly lead to over-torquing due to factual torque values being deceived. Unless you're applying torque reduction values to the bolts when tightening them you run the risk of shearing the bolts, or tightening them to the point they will be impossible to remove after time.
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[/quote]
By lubing the wheel studs your basicaly over tighting the studs.
[/quote]
You take that into account . There has been alot of problems with studs breaking or being stuck , especially the locking wheelnut studs . Our mini when we bought it was 18 months old and the nuts were so tight i had to use a 3' breaker bar to undo them , the locking wheel nut on two wheels snapped off and we had to weld onto the remaining nut to get them off . I also had to walk 5 miles (when i was 18) before the days of mobile phones in the rain as i couldn't change a flat tyre due to the nut being on so tight ! Oddly after lubing wheel nuts (only a little) for 33 years since i have never had a puncture again !
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By lubing the wheel studs your basicaly over tighting the studs.
[/quote]
You take that into account . There has been alot of problems with studs breaking or being stuck , especially the locking wheelnut studs . Our mini when we bought it was 18 months old and the nuts were so tight i had to use a 3' breaker bar to undo them , the locking wheel nut on two wheels snapped off and we had to weld onto the remaining nut to get them off . I also had to walk 5 miles (when i was 18) before the days of mobile phones in the rain as i couldn't change a flat tyre due to the nut being on so tight ! Oddly after lubing wheel nuts (only a little) for 33 years since i have never had a puncture again !
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do you get tyre punctures because of the tightness of the nuts? :confused:
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No !
But you can't get the flat one off to put a new one on 5 miles from the nearest phone !
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By lubing the wheel studs your basicaly over tighting the studs.
[/quote]
You take that into account . There has been alot of problems with studs breaking or being stuck , especially the locking wheelnut studs . Our mini when we bought it was 18 months old and the nuts were so tight i had to use a 3' breaker bar to undo them , the locking wheel nut on two wheels snapped off and we had to weld onto the remaining nut to get them off . I also had to walk 5 miles (when i was 18) before the days of mobile phones in the rain as i couldn't change a flat tyre due to the nut being on so tight ! Oddly after lubing wheel nuts (only a little) for 33 years since i have never had a puncture again !
[/quote]
Did you tighten the studs correctly when they got stuck and snapped? Sounds like the last person to have the wheel off was hanging from a 12ft pipe to tighten them.
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By lubing the wheel studs your basicaly over tighting the studs.
You take that into account . There has been alot of problems with studs breaking or being stuck , especially the locking wheelnut studs . Our mini when we bought it was 18 months old and the nuts were so tight i had to use a 3' breaker bar to undo them , the locking wheel nut on two wheels snapped off and we had to weld onto the remaining nut to get them off . I also had to walk 5 miles (when i was 18) before the days of mobile phones in the rain as i couldn't change a flat tyre due to the nut being on so tight ! Oddly after lubing wheel nuts (only a little) for 33 years since i have never had a puncture again !
[/quote]
Did you tighten the studs correctly when they got stuck and snapped? Sounds like the last person to have the wheel off was hanging from a 12ft pipe to tighten them.
[/quote]
I was undoing them - Keep up ! How many times in 18 months do you think the wheels had been off !
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do you get tyre punctures because of the tightness of the nuts? :confused:
It's called Sod's law.
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By lubing the wheel studs your basicaly over tighting the studs.
You take that into account . There has been alot of problems with studs breaking or being stuck , especially the locking wheelnut studs . Our mini when we bought it was 18 months old and the nuts were so tight i had to use a 3' breaker bar to undo them , the locking wheel nut on two wheels snapped off and we had to weld onto the remaining nut to get them off . I also had to walk 5 miles (when i was 18) before the days of mobile phones in the rain as i couldn't change a flat tyre due to the nut being on so tight ! Oddly after lubing wheel nuts (only a little) for 33 years since i have never had a puncture again !
Did you tighten the studs correctly when they got stuck and snapped? Sounds like the last person to have the wheel off was hanging from a 12ft pipe to tighten them.
[/quote]
I was undoing them - Keep up ! How many times in 18 months do you think the wheels had been off !
[/quote]
Yes I know that but who tighten them last was what I was meaning. Once again who ever tighten them last before you undid them tighten them far to much. I'm sure If you read it again I made that clear :happy2: the wheel only need to be off once.
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I use copper slip on my wheel bolts to stop them seizing. It's vital that the seat (which is the friction surface not the thread) remains free of grease as that will cause torque applied to rise excessively when tightening. The wheel bolts protrude through into an area of the hub where they become contaminated with corrosion, so much so that a few weeks after buying mine I wanted the wheels off for a refurb and with the assistance of an extension on my breaker bar they eventually yielded after 3 hours. All of the bolts showed distortion to the thread profile and were agreed to be scrap by Peter Cooper and were replaced under warranty.
They also confirmed that under normal servicing conditions the wheels never come off. They also bleed brakes with wheels on, so make of that what you will.
When I used to service my own vehicles I did all that the OP has mentioned and would agree that these tasks are required, I've resolved all sorts of issues with this approach. The frequency is up to the individual. Hats off to the OP I say. :smiley:
As to main dealer servicing, you don't get value for your £100+ per hour but it makes some people feel better.
From the dealer I had bits of my OE air filter missing, discovered that one rear shock had been replaced, not a pair. JKM inspected my vehicle on day 2 of ownership and resolved these issues and others that it was not the policy of the main dealer to address unless expressly requested.
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The manufacturers design and specification torque values are based on clean dry threads (not just the seats). Lubrication of the threads or seats will lead to over-torquing and unnecessary stretching of the bolts beyond their design.
You could always apply grease to the exposed thread where it protrudes through the hub if you feel the need to protect against corrosion on the exposed threads, but greasing the bolt before tightening will lead to more load on the bolt than design, simply because it allows you to apply that much more load before the torque value is met.
If you wish to grease the threads then you should apply 15 - 25% reduction to the applied torque to compensate, but if they're torqued correctly (not zipped up with a windy gun like Edd China seems to do on every episode of wheeler dealers) then there's no need for any mucking about (or internet arguments).
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quote from: garrardrj on may 17,2014
You take that into account . There has been alot of problems with studs breaking or being stuck , especially the locking wheelnut studs . Our mini when we bought it was 18 months old and the nuts were so tight i had to use a 3' breaker bar to undo them , the locking wheel nut on two wheels snapped off and we had to weld onto the remaining nut to get them off .
i've had 3 mini's to date, and two have broke the locking wheel bolt key/socket as you mention, it's the design of the actual key/socket, it's extremely weak. cooper teeside actually hold a full set of replacment in stock for this very problem, and as your's was only 18months old i'd of been inclined to contact the dealers and ask for their assistance, as firstly the car was still under warranty, and secondly 95% of mini's come with a 5 year tlc package for all the servicing ect, so theres a good chance they're responsable in my eyes.
that there would be my first point of call before welding nuts to the locking wheel bolt and marking and distorting wheels ect. last thing i'd want to do is mark my wheels from doing that.
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