In the market for a Golf GTI

[uk345]

First off excellent website I have enjoyed looking through the members rides section and seeing all the different modifications being carried out. I am in the market for a new car and have £5000 to play with. I looked at these cars previously but at the time around two years ago they were still quite expensive. One of my biggest wants for the car is for it to have the leather seats and if possible the built in satnav. Not too bothered about what plate it is - I am more interested in how it has been maintained and what recent work has been carried out.

I wanted to know what the common problems with these cars were and if possible rough estimates for the costs ? I have been reading a thread about the VW rust warranty- will this cover a car with a service history outside the VW network ? How do VW go about this and how could I qualify if I bought one with the odd bit of rust ?

[schmidt_vr6]

PM'd You

[ocrory]

I found this Piston Heads buying guide pretty useful. I can't comment on how accurate all the details are (some thoughts on it from more experienced members would be good!) but it's a decent starting point

http://www.pistonheads.com/features/ph-buying-guides/volkswagen-golf-gti-mk5--ph-buying-guide/32199

[GTI-Sam]

Hi I'm new to the forum literally registered a few minutes ago! I am also in the market for a gti, I have viewed one earlier today local to me which is quite a high spec. I am going back tomorrow for a more thorough inspection. Long story short the one I've seen is AXX engine code and although I did fire it when cold I'm worried about the tick over sound. I mean it wasn't overly loud but for a petrol definitely not as quiet as you'd expect.  I know these engines seem to have this issue but should I be worried? I will have another extensive listen tomorrow and even wait for it to warm up. Apologies for the essay! And sorry for the threadjack!  Lol 

[mra12345]

I'll sell you my 06 plate no problem if near Glasgow.  Full leather just had major service. :)

[schmidt_vr6]

The TFSI engines do sound a little noisy. Nothing to worry about.

Have a read:
http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?t=177596

http://www.vwgticlub.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16490

[GTI-Sam]

Sorry am no where near Glasgow. Oh right hopefully it should be all good, I'll have a read. Thanks !

[Ricky123]

All mk5 gti's make a tick/tap sound when running. If it's excessive then best off walking away but after watching a couple of videos of them or looking at a few you'll get the the idea of what they sound like. When the bonnet is open they can sound quite loud.

Common rust places are the front wings, boot and I think occasionally the rear arches. All cars are covered under the warranty aslong as there still within the warranty period (depends on year of car). I had no issue on both gti's I've owned having the work done under warranty. If the car has previously had paint which could be something as simple as a smart repair for a scuff or something then it's abit of a pain as they measured my paint with a gauge and that's what they said they determine it off?? There's a big thread on here about it.. It's worth having a read.

When buying one...

Have a good look round the bodywork for signs of previous damage or cheap smart repair spray jobs. Wheels for curb marks etc.

Check wheels for curbing and Check the tyres for wear. Nothing worse than shelling out a few grand for a car and then seeing that one of the tyres has nearly had it a week after handing over the cash and it's also a bargaining tool.

I'd have a good hard look threw the service history. Make sure it's all been done at correct times and there is proof. Also check that the dates and mileage tally up with the mot history. If it's all VW then don't hesitate to call the dealer/s to confirm that it's genuine. If dsg then make sure the box has been serviced when it should have and that it's not jerky at all.

See if there's any history for the fuel pump cam follower being changed, PCV, diverter valve, oil pick up pipe, coil packs and cambelt/waterpump. If they haven't yet been done then they will more than likely need doing at some point in the future.

Make sure the car drives like you'd expect it to, always have a good test drive not just a quick run around the block. If it's down on power at all which a few of the ones I've looked at before have been then there's a good chance the DV has failed which costs around £45.

Make sure the clutch feels good and it doesn't slip and the flywheel isn't rattling it tits off. A good way to check the flywheel is to have the car running with the door open and press the clutch on and off to see if a rattling noise is coming and going as your doing it. There will be a slight sound but nothing excessive if it's ok.

The engines are fairly strong. Some can use a lot of oil but others hardly anything, something like that is going be near impossible to check when viewing one.
I'm not sure if the timing chain on the camshafts needs changing at a certain mileage but if it's excessively noisy then it will more than likely need doing.
Check for any smoke from the exhaust on first start, under load etc

Check everything works inside, all switches, windows, air con (common to be faulty), check for any excessive wear to the interior, does it look about right for the mileage?

Not sure of anything else of the top of my head but just the normal stuff when going to buy a car. Take time when viewing there shouldn't be any rush to part with your hard earned cash. Always check the vosa site for any mileage discerpencies, always hpi the car don't just do a £3 text check pay for a good one or you might get bitten. I'd try and buy a standard car if it was me or if it's modified then It would be dependent on mods and what the seller was like personally for me.

There's plenty to choose from for £5000 I'd say anything under 100k miles would be worth looking at. Remember Low mileage cars could need all the small common bits doing.

[Ditto]

Ricky123 has covered all the main areas :)

In regards to the cambelt it's worth checking when it was done too. VW recommend every 60,000 miles or 4 years (5 after September 2009), whichever is sooner. VW dealers offer the cambelt replacement for 399 (you can pay the cost for the water pump). I found many local VW specialists charging more!

FYI, servicing costs at the dealers are around 400 for a package which includes a major, minor and two MOTs. Obviously less if you go elsewhere.

[GTI-Sam]

Oh wow great advice Ricky123 much appreciated thanks!

I didn't get a chance to go back since but i'll be going tomorrow. Car seems legit however the inspection will tell, I am going to look at all the paperwork and thoroughly check the car. This one has covered 89k and has full vw and specialist history, coil pack recall done and front wings replaced under warranty. Test drive will be tricky as the car has no tax but the seller said he'll sort something. We did go for a quick one on Tuesday though. I think the cam belt was done recently in the 80's which is late, is that a put off? I believe the tensioners were also done and water pump as well however paperwork will confirm this tomorrow. I checked the a.c which works but i still have a crap load of things to check when i see it again. If all is good I'll be leaving a deposit and seller will hold the vehicle for about 3 weeks, which hopefully gives me enough time to sell my car. Although if it doesn't sell I'll still go and pay the remaining balance and pick her up. I just don't want money in 2 cars at a time so hope it's a smooth transition!

Thanks for all your help guys!

[Ditto]

I think the cam belt was done recently in the 80's which is late, is that a put off? I believe the tensioners were also done and water pump as well however paperwork will confirm this tomorrow.

Hi Sam, obvious thing here but be sure to check it's not just a tick someone's put in the book. If it's got the garage name it'd pay to give them a quick call to confirm what was done or ideally the paperwork too.

Also, one thing to check is if it's been serviced on LongLife or interval servicing... most are on the latter which is 12 months or 10k. LongLife is generally only recommended on cars which regularly exceed more than 30 miles a day with little town use.

[StuF]

There's plenty to choose from for £5000 I'd say anything under 100k miles would be worth looking at. Remember Low mileage cars could need all the small common bits doing.

Why is the 100k mileage figure an issue here?
Always buy on condition, spec and history - in no particular order! Not an arbitrary mileage figure 

I am still confused by this apparent hangup people have on a mileage figure?
Mine has done 172k on an 08 plate and is in perfect order - no advisories on the last two mot's and is tight as a drum
It will see me over the 200k mark I am sure - if anything was going to break by now apart from consumables it would have!

As for potential purchasers

Check condition of the vehicle - yep they do rust in areas others have said, also look for accident damage and shoddy repairs. A/C should be icy cold and dont be fobbed off with "it only needs a recharge"
Get them to recharge it and try again - can be VERY expensive to repair if the compressor has failed. If someone is running a performance vehicle on ditchfinder tyres that cost pence per corner instead of Goodyears/Pirelli or other performance car tyres I wouldnt imagine that vehicle has been looked after. Dirty/Stained/Ripped seating - why isnt it immaculate for sale? Not been cared for
DSG or manual boxes have their own issues - ensure DSG oil changes have been carried out, Mechatronic units in the DSG box can cost upwards of £1500 to replace and if its a manual check the clutch as others have said. New clutch/flywheel and release bearing is around £1k fitted. Cambelts need doing every 4 years or 40k miles and around £350 to carry out including a new water pump.

Know your spec and what you want - check for Highline Dash clusters, Multifunction Steering wheel controls, Cruse Control,Folding mirrors, BiXenon Lights, SatNav headunits, 18'' Monza Wheels, 2 x working keys, Leather seats - the list goes on and although the majority can be retrofitted it wont be cheap.

Service history - Stamps in a book are NOT service history, good enthusiast owners keep EVERY receipt for the vehicle. I do! Make sure you carry out an online MOT history check - verify's mileage and you can often spot a dodgy MOT, ie a fail with a long long list of issues on  a Monday then a pass a couple of days later at a different garage with not a single advisory and no paperwork or receipts to back up the repairs!

Good luck and happy car shopping - pm me if you need any further advice

[Ricky123]

Mileage isn't an issue for me when buying a car aslong as its been looked after and serviced but when there's so many to choose from then why settle for something with what would be considered as high mileage when you could buy something with average mileage??

By all means buy one that's covered 170k with full history but if your considering modifying it like a remap, exhaust etc then I wouldn't expect the piston rings or camshafts aswell as a lot of other items to take as much of beating as one below 100k miles with equivalent service history.
I could be wrong it could stand up to it and be the best car you've ever owned but 2 years after and you want to sell it on and you put another 20k miles on it then don't expect anywhere near your money back when it's been around the world. I'd happily by one but I'd want to hand over minimal money for it.

Also clutch and flywheel cost for a Sachs kit was £350 for mine unsure on labour as I fitted it myself

Cambelt kit was £90 and waterpump with neccasary engine mount bolts was £45 again unsure on labour cost as I fitted it myself

If you no what your doing with spanners then prices for work you might need doing on your car drop dramatically. I'd always urge people to have a go them selves. I've got no mechanical qualifications what so ever and I'm completely self taught.

[StuF]

A lower mileage vehicle that has been driven from cold on short journeys say less than 30mins each trip will have significantly more engine wear than a vehicle of the same age with higher miles that has spent hours cruising up and down the motorway at proper temp.
The majority of the wear an engine is subjected to is when the engine is cold and the tolerances are tight with little proper lubrication - the large proportion of the oil will drop into the sump away from the metal on metal areas.
If I was given the choice of a similar spec, similar condition lower mileage stop start town car or a higher mileage motorway cruiser I would always go for the cruiser.

I always buy my cars on condition condition condition, mileage is only a concern when checking the service history matches up with the correct scheduled maintenance intervals and looking at MOT history for consistency. Another aspect of a vehicles overall condition.

Although to be perfectly honest I am actually very glad the issue of mileage is such a price sensitive one - wouldn't get such great bargains otherwise when buying cars that have actually been used as intended.

I know this isnt particularly on-topic but with a cars mileage being intrinsically linked to its "value/price" I would love to know how many 2 year 11 month old cars are having their mileage "adjusted" just before the first MOT? I bet there will be some interesting MK7 R's appearing on the market in a couple of years that have had SUBSTANTIAL haircuts!

Test drive a couple of cars before settling on one so you can atleast get a feel for the car - there are plenty to choose from 

 

[Ricky123]

The bit you've said about he cars mileage being adjusted before its first mot happens on a shed load of vehicles!

Most of my friends do something within the car trade and a very good friend of mine that specialises in auto electrics, diagnostic work, key coding and mileage adjustment told me a while ago about the amount of cow boys that he has contact to do mileage adjustments on all sorts of cars... He doesn't do it if there story behind it being done doesn't sound right as he said it's a big scam at the moment and authorities are clamping down on it.