Which brakes for spirited road 360+bhp?

[Msportman]

You'll never over brake a car. Look at touring cars.

But they are competition cars. What I meant is you can disturb brake balance front to rear and there is a happy balance to be met re vehicle weight use of vehicle etc to compliment Rota size.
Another consideration is caliper type size v servo limitations.

[Gaz]

Didnt have notifications switched on for this, oops.

Thanks for all the info/ links.

Those AP brakes, £2750.... WHAT? Im not running a touring car.. Lol

Ive now bought 18z 6 pot calipers to try fitment then refurbish them and put a kit together assuming they fit behind my rims. :)




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[flashp]

I have these:
Too much with Pagid RST3 pads on the road but they work effortlessly on track. Hard braking repeatedly from 130/145 doesn't phase them at all. They're also desirable if re-sale becomes necessary. They can stop a much more powerful car than mine at 340bhp.

Set yourself a budget otherwise the sky is the limit. Whatever caliper you go for consider a floating rotor. They manage heat far better.

Bit of an update for those that may be interested...I just switched to Carbotech XP10 pads and removed the Pagids. The difference is I now have much more useful brake control at urban speeds. The Pagids were excellent at any speed over 40mph but below would have your passengers experiencing an uncomfortable ride at times. Apart from the change in initial application at low speeds there's no change in maximum braking effect, still excellent.

The Carbotech pads are also much quieter, no squealing and the rotors run backwards through them when in reverse quietly without causing resonance. This resonance was caused by the discs being floating and being tethered to the hat by straps. This is OK when the disc is being 'pulled' through the pads (moving forwards) but not when it's being 'pushed' through. The Pagids seemed inclined to stick to the discs when running backwards and caused a thrumming noise.

[flashp]

Didnt have notifications switched on for this, oops.

Thanks for all the info/ links.

Those AP brakes, £2750.... WHAT? Im not running a touring car.. Lol

Ive now bought 18z 6 pot calipers to try fitment then refurbish them and put a kit together assuming they fit behind my rims. :)




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine are not the competition variant so fortunately didn't cost this much. The competition versions of these need to be considered carefully before being used on a road car. It's possible that the seals may not do well since they use different types and locations within the caliper assembly and in competition use it can be accepted that frequent servicing is acceptable.

[Ricky123]

I ran rs3 front calipers with ttrs disks and 10mm spacers on my mk5 while using 18" Monza wheels and they had more than enough stopping power. I thought the car was going to do a front flip at times lol

[Horatio]

What upgrade are we looking at without a master cylinder upgrade? Looking at a real possibility of SC the .:R in the new year.

Those AP's look the danglies!

[Shoduchi]

I ran rs3 front calipers with ttrs disks and 10mm spacers on my mk5 while using 18" Monza wheels and they had more than enough stopping power. I thought the car was going to do a front flip at times lol

If your front dipped too much, you might have needed to at least refresh the rear brakes. Better to upgrade the pads and discs and even better to get a R32/S3 rear setup. That would have even your braking to avoid dipping the front too much when doing hard stops.

[flashp]

I think you need to look to your suspension first to control weight transfer in a vehicle that is some way from 50/50 weight distribution.
I agree that rear pads of a similar friction coefficient are a good idea though, just not responsible for the sensation that Ricky123 was describing.

Too hard at the front and your front wheels will break traction, too soft and the front get's loaded too much and becomes unstable under hard braking.
The weight distribution of these cars is compounding the problem. On track mine is better with a full tank, it gets more lively as it empties but not to a level where it's a problem.

[Shoduchi]

I think you need to look to your suspension first to control weight transfer in a vehicle that is some way from 50/50 weight distribution.
I agree that rear pads of a similar friction coefficient are a good idea though, just not responsible for the sensation that Ricky123 was describing.

Too hard at the front and your front wheels will break traction, too soft and the front get's loaded too much and becomes unstable under hard braking.
The weight distribution of these cars is compounding the problem. On track mine is better with a full tank, it gets more lively as it empties but not to a level where it's a problem.

I was based in personal experience too. When I just upgraded my front brakes in my GT Sport with R32 brakes, my front dipped much more than before. I later upgraded pads and discs and the car is much more leveled during braking.

When I upgraded the brakes of my Ed. 30 I did both front and rears and managed a balanced setup.

What you describe is more noticeable going over bumps, when the rear has some weight (from fuel or heavy stuff in the trunk) the car is much more composed, since the rear doesn't bounce as much.