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Author Topic: PCV test - clarification  (Read 10593 times)

Offline BigA91

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PCV test - clarification
« on: December 01, 2015, 10:09:20 pm »
So just testing bits and bobs prior to my remap. I've just done the dipstick test and my car was running rough and the PCV was whistling. Does this mean the PCV is facked?

Offline beetie

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Re: PCV test - clarification
« Reply #1 on: December 01, 2015, 10:20:41 pm »
Sure that means it's okay

Offline BigA91

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Re: PCV test - clarification
« Reply #2 on: December 01, 2015, 11:43:09 pm »
So why does it whistle lol? I thought if it whistles, it's gone ?

Offline schmidt_vr6

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Re: PCV test - clarification
« Reply #3 on: December 02, 2015, 10:30:42 am »
The other way to test the PCV is, Start the car and try to open the Oil Cap (where you pour oil in from). If the PCV is good. The cap will simply not open or even turn as it is building with pressure.

If it opens then you have a Knackered PCV.

Offline schmidt_vr6

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Re: PCV test - clarification
« Reply #4 on: December 02, 2015, 10:33:34 am »
Also when I had a Knackered PCV on my car. The revs would Hunt on idle. It did not matter if the engine was hot or cold. And you could hear the engine noise whilst it was hunting too

Offline Pesky jones

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Re: PCV test - clarification
« Reply #5 on: December 02, 2015, 10:37:12 am »
funny, my car is in the garage at the moment and they told me the breather valve needs replacing because when they try to take the oil cap off, it is sucked in. You'd think a garage that advertises as VW audi specialist would know there stuff...

Offline Dan_FR

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Re: PCV test - clarification
« Reply #6 on: December 02, 2015, 10:41:18 am »
It will whistle as its sucking in air through the dipstick hole or engine filler cap hole that is then going through the breather system and in to the intake, either directly in to the manifold when off boost (vacuum), or through the rear breather in to the side of the turbo when on boost.

General rule of thumb - if it idles nicely until you pull the dipstick out, or remove the engine filler cap, and idles terribly and tries to stall when removed, then it's ok (obviously the filler cap having a larger difference due to the size of the 'leak' you are introducing)
TFSI... Revo Stage 2+... . WMI.... VCDS HEX + CAN, MPPS, VAG Commander & VAG tacho - South Wales

Offline Pesky jones

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Re: PCV test - clarification
« Reply #7 on: December 02, 2015, 11:10:00 am »
What revs does a healthy engine idle at? When I first start the car, in P, then it will sit above 1000, but then after a while and if put it in D then it drops to about 700.


Offline r5gtt

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Re: PCV test - clarification
« Reply #8 on: December 02, 2015, 11:13:21 am »
What revs does a healthy engine idle at? When I first start the car, in P, then it will sit above 1000, but then after a while and if put it in D then it drops to about 700.
That's correct.

Offline Pesky jones

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Re: PCV test - clarification
« Reply #9 on: December 02, 2015, 11:59:37 am »
yay

Offline BigA91

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Re: PCV test - clarification
« Reply #10 on: December 02, 2015, 04:01:08 pm »
It's fine then I suppose lol. Just did a 85 mile trip through country roads to AKS tuning and it barely even drank £10. I suppose if it is faulty, Niki will pick it up on the mapping session. Cheers guys! :happy2:

Offline Mrstridey

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Re: PCV test - clarification
« Reply #11 on: December 14, 2015, 03:35:31 pm »
If its not already been sorted -

when you key off have a buddy listen to the engine. if it blows back/hisses when you switch off its dead!

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Stock...for now...

Offline r5gtt

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Re: PCV test - clarification
« Reply #12 on: December 14, 2015, 03:39:22 pm »
I've literally got out my car and took the dipstick out and the cars hissed and spluttered and bit confirming all is well with the pcv although mine is new  :rolleye: