URGENT oil pressure stop engine

[Paulo P]

Thinking about it, to remove the cam girdle il have to remove the cambelt as discussed. If I just slip this off, if the compression test comes back good, then surely I can just slip it back on provided it goes back in the same position? Then just time it up with new chain and tensioner and theoretically it should start.

Few questions – Once the cam girdle bolts are undone, will everything just pull up with it? Cam pulleys etc

 -once the girdle comes off the cylinder head, do I leave that and everything else off ? (valve cover, cam cover etc) for the compression test?

Firstly do not consider re-using that belt, if you re-use that belt and it snaps a few months down the line you will be kicking yourself.

When you come to fit the belt you will have to time up the cam and crank again onto their marks, you can't take anything for granted and you'll have rotated the crank several times and removed that cam, nothing will remain in the same position.

To perform a compression test you won't need any of the covers on, that's the beauty of doing it this way because you're performing it mid strip down.

[doylebros]

Pesky keep in mind to spend as little as possible to allow you to do a sensible evaluation.

[Pesky jones]

Thinking about it, to remove the cam girdle il have to remove the cambelt as discussed. If I just slip this off, if the compression test comes back good, then surely I can just slip it back on provided it goes back in the same position? Then just time it up with new chain and tensioner and theoretically it should start.

Few questions – Once the cam girdle bolts are undone, will everything just pull up with it? Cam pulleys etc

 -once the girdle comes off the cylinder head, do I leave that and everything else off ? (valve cover, cam cover etc) for the compression test?

Firstly do not consider re-using that belt, if you re-use that belt and it snaps a few months down the line you will be kicking yourself.

When you come to fit the belt you will have to time up the cam and crank again onto their marks, you can't take anything for granted and you'll have rotated the crank several times and removed that cam, nothing will remain in the same position.

To perform a compression test you won't need any of the covers on, that's the beauty of doing it this way because you're performing it mid strip down.

Hm. In that case would it be worth doing the compression test with the cams out? If I leave the cams in, time it back up with the new chain and tensioner and then do the compression test by hand cranking it, that would give me the same result wouldn't it? Plus then if I had good compression then the cambelt would still be on, and I wouldn't need to do all the work of refitting and buying a new cambelt.

[r5gtt]

You've done well pesky mate  just fit it all up and turn her over ffs stop playing with your balls.   

[rich83]

Yeah that's the correct type. 16 MM. I think but cannot check as away from home.

[Pesky jones]

Chain, tensioner and compression tester have just turned up, just waiting on the spark plug remover tool now. Supposed to be here tomorrow.

I’ll fit the the chain and tensioner tonight, and do the compression test with it timed up by turning the crank by hand. Fingers crossed I can get the chain on without removing the adjustor.

I think ill struggle with getting the inline camshaft to line up correctly. Am I right in thinking that once the notches are vertical in the camshaft and the cam locking tool fits in snug then that will be correctly timed for me to put the chain on? When I was turning the inlet cam by hand with the tool, with the valve cover off to observe the camshaft, I could only turn it once, because at the back of the engine there is a metal line in the way (I think coolant?) this pipe does bend but I don’t want to push it too far incase it  snaps. Have to have a play tonight

[dazza]

I don't think you will get the chain on without removing the adjustor.

[Pesky jones]

Whys that, is the sprocket for the chain attached to the adjuster? Because if not, then even if I removed the adjuster id be in the exact same position.

[pudding]

Yeah the sprocket and adjuster are one part.

With the cams lined up, the tool will drop in and lock them together, but there is still some movement.   On the adjuster there is a peg which slots into a keyway on the exhaust cam, so it can only go on one way.   You pop the chain round both sprockets so that the peg on the adjuster is near as dammit lined up, then if necessary, tweak the inlet cam slightly until the peg locates.  Done.   If you can't get the adjuster onto the exhaust cam, keep removing it and playing with the chain position until you do it.  Took me a couple of attempts.

[Pesky jones]

I see.

I've got a mate coming tonight to help out, mainly to hold the bit in the adjustor whilst I turn it.

Ive just wondered in to town to Halfords to see if my spark plug socket had turned up yet but it hadn't - however, ive bought just a standard 10mm spark plug socket without the long reach. It has a 1/2" drive so I will be able to put it on an extender to get it to reach. It's not magnetic, instead it has the rubber grommet. Matey in Halfords said that if it didn't work I could bring it back to them, but I cant see why it shouldn't work. Also on £4.50 compared to the £14 one I had ordered.

[rich83]

Sparks are defo 16mm mate.

[Pesky jones]

Well the hex is 16mm but its.called a 10mm? Pretty sure I got the right one

[rich83]

lol... makes 0% sense but hey!! 

[r5gtt]

lol... makes 0% sense but hey!! 

Yes that's what they call a spark plug socket 10mm    people. 

[Pesky jones]

So fell at the first hurdle

Just tried to turn the camshaft to so I could put the cam locking tool in to tske the adjuster off but the camshaft will only turn once???