URGENT oil pressure stop engine

[Paulo P]

You won't be refitting that belt, when it comes to putting the new belt on you'll be lining up the timing marks again just like you did before.

[Pesky jones]

You won't be refitting that belt, when it comes to putting the new belt on you'll be lining up the timing marks again just like you did before.

TBH I wasn't intending on getting a new cambelt...

[Andy]

 

You won't be refitting that belt, when it comes to putting the new belt on you'll be lining up the timing marks again just like you did before.

TBH I wasn't intending on getting a new cambelt...

[Pesky jones]

Big mistake? Ok point taken

[Pesky jones]

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5433708-2-0T-BPY-Camshaft-adjuster-Tensioner-and-chain-Installation

Take a read...fingers crossed

[Paulo P]

yes, always fit a new belt. We suspected that the guy who rebuilt my old engine re-used the old belt despite being supplied with a brand new belt which is why it failed 200 miles into running in!

[r5gtt]

Are we referring to the bracket on the engine side and if so yes it is.

Yay

Removing the cambelt and head should be easy compared to what you've already done, re-fitting is the harder part 

Ha oh really? What are the difficult bits of refitting?

I think I remember someone saying about the engine mount being a pain to remove @r5gtt or @dazza maybe?

Cambelt timing can scare people off but on VW engines that's easier because you've only got to line up one cam pulley. You've then got to make sure that everything is 100% clean between the head to block mounting faces and correctly torque the head down.

If you've got the time, tools and patience there's no reason why you can't do it, it just about confidence.

I had a cambelt snap 200 miles into a running in period on my old Integrale 16 valve after paying someone else to rebuild the engine. That suffered bent valves and I repaired it myself in the end and I'm no mechanic, all I did was towed it to a garage to fit a new cambelt because back then I was scared of cambelts having had 1 jump and destroy the engine and then another one snap

Ok. Ill keep telling myself I can do it then!

I’m sure im getting ahead of myself again but…

Say I remove head this weekend. Valves have bent and I decide to get a new cylinder head. I refit everything and all ready to go. I turn on engine and theres still an oil pressure warning light. I will have wasted a lot of time and money and probably would have been better off going for a new engine to begin with.

I’m praying that it is just a new cylinder head as I think I might be able to remove and refit myself, and it will just be the cost of the new head, bolts, gaskets, coolant etc.

Really I think Id need to eliminate the oil pump, but that will mean dropping the sump again, and trying to get the balance shaft unit off (something I can’t find much info for). As I’ve mentioned plenty of times if the tensioner had proved the reason for the oil pressure message I would be confident in just replacing the cylinder head. But then again I don’t know the order of events in which the chain snapped so cant definitively rule the tensioner being the root of the problem out.

Bit of a mental battle im having here 

Have fun as I'm not being at work 

[Pesky jones]

So im just a bit confused about how the camshafts come out, from memory the camshafts go through the cylinder head at each end, so they wont just lift straight out?

I think ill order this now
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-CT955-Petrol-Engine-Compression/dp/B000R9ZK5O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458568769&sr=8-2&keywords=Compression+gauge

And is this the correct tool for removing spark plugs? @rich83
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/sockets-accessories/laser-magnetic-spark-plug-socket-14mm

So im just going to pull the belt of the exhaust cam pulley?

[pudding]

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5433708-2-0T-BPY-Camshaft-adjuster-Tensioner-and-chain-Installation

Take a read...fingers crossed

Yeah that's what I thought.  Chances are the inlet cam snapped round on spring pressure, thereby moving the valves out of harm's way. As it happened at such a low rpm, I think you'll be OK, but obviously you'll need to confirm that with a compression / leak down test.  Although if it were me I'd just say F'ck it and start it and see what happens 

If you were hammering round the track at 7000rpm and the chain snapped - totally different story!!!

Cam girdle is plate the rocker cover bolts to, it's a separate piece to the head casting.  Undo that and the cams will lift right out.

Quite complex engines these for a 4 pot!

[Paulo P]

So im just a bit confused about how the camshafts come out, from memory the camshafts go through the cylinder head at each end, so they wont just lift straight out?

I think ill order this now
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-CT955-Petrol-Engine-Compression/dp/B000R9ZK5O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458568769&sr=8-2&keywords=Compression+gauge

And is this the correct tool for removing spark plugs? @rich83
http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/tools/sockets-accessories/laser-magnetic-spark-plug-socket-14mm

So im just going to pull the belt of the exhaust cam pulley?

Can you get me a photo of the head with the cam cover removed?

Normally you mark the cam caps (if they're not already marked) so that you know where each one went and their orientation and remove them carefully. Once they are removed you should be able to lift the cams out of the head. Being a tfsi engine that I'm not familiar with you may have to remove a few other bits and pieces.

[pudding]

In this pic you can see some torx head screws near the cam lobes and if you look ever so carefully, a thin join line in the chain cover section.   Undo all of those screws and that whole chunk comes off.



Like so.....

[Pesky jones]

Cam caps?

@Pudding ok well we can hope.. il remove the cams and look at the compression.

Any one clarify the tools I will order are correct? Both the gauge and the spark plug tool

[pudding]

As per my post before yours, the bearing caps are part of the cam 'girdle'.  Easier / quicker assembly at the factory and all that.

[Paulo P]

That's a strange design but Pudding has summed it up.

[Pesky jones]

So ive ordered a 10mm/ 16mm euro size spark plug magnetic socket and the compression gauge of amazon.

Thinking about it, to remove the cam girdle il have to remove the cambelt as discussed. If I just slip this off, if the compression test comes back good, then surely I can just slip it back on provided it goes back in the same position? Then just time it up with new chain and tensioner and theoretically it should start.

Few questions – Once the cam girdle bolts are undone, will everything just pull up with it? Cam pulleys etc

 -once the girdle comes off the cylinder head, do I leave that and everything else off ? (valve cover, cam cover etc) for the compression test?