I've lost a cylinder it seems. Cam Chain Tensioner?

[GTiBlues]

Pre issues.
- Started a whine since the weather got colder. Only made a whine when the throttle was applied in gear. As soon as you lifted, it went.
- Idle sounded faintly like a diesel, tapping over the last 6 months.
- Idle was faintly lumpy, only via the exhaust you could hear it.

- Car ran fine.
- Never dropped on boost.
- Always started on 3rd turn over Cold and Hot.

Started the car up yesterday to move it in the drive and thats it.

Issue I got now, this morning.
- On start up, straight away really lumpy, 3 cylinders. Only had the car running for seconds at a time. Only been started up 3 times.
- VCDS plugged and nothing has recorded.
- No lights on the dash or anything.

Address 01: Engine        Labels: 06F-907-115-AXX.lbl
   Part No SW: 1K0 907 115     HW: 1K0 907 115
   Component: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI G00 0070 
   Revision: --H01---    Serial number: VWZ7Z0E1498978
   Coding: 0403000318070160
   Shop #: WSC 00193 210 88503
   VCID: E3C5C90722A0E306691-80B6

No fault code found.
Readiness: 0000 0000

What's the symptoms for the cam chain tensioner to fail?

[v4rley]

Not really got an idea but would have though more like an injector?

[doylebros]

This thread advises you what your timing values should be since you've got access to VCDS it will also educate you on all you need to know if you do have cam chain issues, and the cope time action.
http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,106158.0.html

I would think coil pack,plugs or injector first though since there easier to elimate.
 

[GTiBlues]

I've got my old (newish, 6 months use) coil packs still, replaced the packs for red tops well over a year ago. I'll pick up some new plugs also and do that first.

Just assumed something like injector or coil packs would register on VCDS, anything electronic really. I'll google how to check injectors.

[v4rley]

Codes aren't always that helpful anyway but do give you a rough guide of where to start looking. Think with the injectors even if they aren't squirting enough or any the electric would still pass so would show a fault

[Pesky jones]

I think you would get a timing code if any of the cam chain arrangement was off, such as the P0011 code. As others have said go with the cheapest fix - sparks & coils first, then injectors

[GTiBlues]

Fired up on all cylinders and drove it to my mates garage. Been fixed now for the past 3 weeks. The tensioner was alright to look at, changed it anyways and the engine was noticeably quieter! Inside the casing, there was lumps of oil all over the place and the rest of the cams etc looked in real good condition. No markings or anything. So we ran it upto temperature and ditched the oil for Castrol Edge Titanium. Car so far has been on point running wise.

I believe it was the 6000 mile old Millers Nano Drive oil that caused it after all that waiting around to save up for the tensioner kit.

[pudding]

I've never been convinced putting 'bits' into engine oil is a good idea.  I remember back when Slick 50 was all the rage. Little bits of PTFE in the oil to make the engine run smoother.  Good idea in principal, but in practice it can clog up tiny oil ways when the bits drop out of suspension.

Friction reducers are best left for frying pans really.  A good oil doesn't need any of that stuff in it 

[GTiBlues]

Well lesson learnt anyways. Stick to Castrol!

[Dan_FR]

How on earth can you categorically blame the oil unless its been run on Millers from new? How do you know these little clumps of oil weren't from a sh*tty 5w30 oil and longlife service scheme that VW are oh so fond of?

[GTiBlues]

I've had the car for over 3 years. I've changed the oil every 5-6,000 miles. I used Millers once and I found small lumps in the oil when we did the chain tensioner. Coincidence it maybe, before I was using Quantum oils, all from TPS.

Then yesterday my turbo finally gave up! 

[Dan_FR]

I blame the Castrol........ See what I did there