Poor Start-up, shoddy, struggling. Now power loss, reduced torque.

[UniquEd30]

Recently having changed the PCV on my VW Golf Edition 30 currently sitting on 131k, last serviced 126k.

Noticed recently about 2 days now the car has had poor start-ups, like it will start first go but it struggles, and can now feel the car has loss its power, not fully but that kick isn't there anymore. Any ideas? Maybe something relating to the start-up thats causing loss of power too.

Help please.

[pudding]

Is it standard?

I guess the default first question needs to be asked - have you had it scanned for fault codes?  If this car is a keeper and / or you plan on staying with VAG cars for a while, VCDS and an OBD2 cable is probably one of the best purchases you can make!

If the car starts very roughly, it could be runner flaps not functioning correctly, could be a bit sticky. I assume you haven't done what folk call an "RFD" (runner flap delete)?

As for the performance reduction, I've felt it too this week.  It's a lot more responsive in the warmer months.  You'd think it'd be the other way round with a turbo engine, but Euro4 emissions blunt these engines significantly during warm up, which takes a lot longer when it's as cold as it is right now.  Mine doesn't perk up until pretty much the end of my 12 mile journey to work!

[UniquEd30]

Is it standard?

I guess the default first question needs to be asked - have you had it scanned for fault codes?  If this car is a keeper and / or you plan on staying with VAG cars for a while, VCDS and an OBD2 cable is probably one of the best purchases you can make!

If the car starts very roughly, it could be runner flaps not functioning correctly, could be a bit sticky. I assume you haven't done what folk call an "RFD" (runner flap delete)?

As for the performance reduction, I've felt it too this week.  It's a lot more responsive in the warmer months.  You'd think it'd be the other way round with a turbo engine, but Euro4 emissions blunt these engines significantly during warm up, which takes a lot longer when it's as cold as it is right now.  Mine doesn't perk up until pretty much the end of my 12 mile journey to work!

Hey Pudding thank you for your rapid response.

Yup car is totally standard with a recent pcv revision r change. Scanned for fault codes with a bluetooth OBD2 reader no faults or pending faults. Is VCDS better?

No idea with Runner flaps or RFD, could you ellaborate on this please, and if its DIY-able.

Yeah car isn't running as good lately but I guess its been cold in London and usually my journey ends within 12miles =/..

May need to service soon though I reckon. I had a read in the service booklet, says Camshafts need to be changed after 120k, but have no clue if mines were changed.

[Dan_FR]

VCDS is better, a lot better as it picks up manufacturer specific codes, pending faults etc.

Generic readers show my car has no faults, VCDS picks up at least 2 or 3 engine related faults from various unneeded rubbish that I've removed.

[UniquEd30]

VCDS is better, a lot better as it picks up manufacturer specific codes, pending faults etc.

Generic readers show my car has no faults, VCDS picks up at least 2 or 3 engine related faults from various unneeded rubbish that I've removed.

Right ok, sounds good.

When you say unneeded rubbish you removed, do you mean you cleared the faults or got them fixed? Did these codes restrict the drive of your car?

Anyone within East London/London surroundings offering a kind gesture with a VCD to have a quick minute to check my car for faults??

[pudding]

Is it standard?

I guess the default first question needs to be asked - have you had it scanned for fault codes?  If this car is a keeper and / or you plan on staying with VAG cars for a while, VCDS and an OBD2 cable is probably one of the best purchases you can make!

If the car starts very roughly, it could be runner flaps not functioning correctly, could be a bit sticky. I assume you haven't done what folk call an "RFD" (runner flap delete)?

As for the performance reduction, I've felt it too this week.  It's a lot more responsive in the warmer months.  You'd think it'd be the other way round with a turbo engine, but Euro4 emissions blunt these engines significantly during warm up, which takes a lot longer when it's as cold as it is right now.  Mine doesn't perk up until pretty much the end of my 12 mile journey to work!

Hey Pudding thank you for your rapid response.

Yup car is totally standard with a recent pcv revision r change. Scanned for fault codes with a bluetooth OBD2 reader no faults or pending faults. Is VCDS better?

No idea with Runner flaps or RFD, could you ellaborate on this please, and if its DIY-able.

Yeah car isn't running as good lately but I guess its been cold in London and usually my journey ends within 12miles =/..

May need to service soon though I reckon. I had a read in the service booklet, says Camshafts need to be changed after 120k, but have no clue if mines were changed.

OK, ignore the RFD thing then, sounds like your car is standard.   Various post 2003 German engines have flaps in the intake manifold which when closed, restrict the air-flow to improve cold running.  A lot of people pushing for every last drop of hp remove these flaps, but a side effect of doing so is crap cold starting.   But if your flaps are sticking open (said the bishop.....), it could cause the symptoms you describe....as can a few other things, but yours appears to be fault code free.

Yeah VCDS is the one to get.  You can do a lot of other things with it too, like turning off / on vehicle features and monitoring everything the ECU measures.

Flaps sticking closed / or open could also have an impact on part throttle performance, but I'm pretty sure the ECU would throw a fault code if it wasn't happy with them.   You can also run diagnostic checks on things like that with VCDS, i.e. open and close them manually.

[UniquEd30]

Is it standard?

I guess the default first question needs to be asked - have you had it scanned for fault codes?  If this car is a keeper and / or you plan on staying with VAG cars for a while, VCDS and an OBD2 cable is probably one of the best purchases you can make!

If the car starts very roughly, it could be runner flaps not functioning correctly, could be a bit sticky. I assume you haven't done what folk call an "RFD" (runner flap delete)?

As for the performance reduction, I've felt it too this week.  It's a lot more responsive in the warmer months.  You'd think it'd be the other way round with a turbo engine, but Euro4 emissions blunt these engines significantly during warm up, which takes a lot longer when it's as cold as it is right now.  Mine doesn't perk up until pretty much the end of my 12 mile journey to work!

Hey Pudding thank you for your rapid response.

Yup car is totally standard with a recent pcv revision r change. Scanned for fault codes with a bluetooth OBD2 reader no faults or pending faults. Is VCDS better?

No idea with Runner flaps or RFD, could you ellaborate on this please, and if its DIY-able.

Yeah car isn't running as good lately but I guess its been cold in London and usually my journey ends within 12miles =/..

May need to service soon though I reckon. I had a read in the service booklet, says Camshafts need to be changed after 120k, but have no clue if mines were changed.

OK, ignore the RFD thing then, sounds like your car is standard.   Various post 2003 German engines have flaps in the intake manifold which when closed, restrict the air-flow to improve cold running.  A lot of people pushing for every last drop of hp remove these flaps, but a side effect of doing so is crap cold starting.   But if your flaps are sticking open (said the bishop.....), it could cause the symptoms you describe....as can a few other things, but yours appears to be fault code free.

Yeah VCDS is the one to get.  You can do a lot of other things with it too, like turning off / on vehicle features and monitoring everything the ECU measures.

Flaps sticking closed / or open could also have an impact on part throttle performance, but I'm pretty sure the ECU would throw a fault code if it wasn't happy with them.   You can also run diagnostic checks on things like that with VCDS, i.e. open and close them manually.

Wow. What sort of car features are we talking? Never owed a VW so clueless to this all. Previous Integra Type R owner.

And how much is a VCD? Where can I get one.

[pudding]

Is it standard?

I guess the default first question needs to be asked - have you had it scanned for fault codes?  If this car is a keeper and / or you plan on staying with VAG cars for a while, VCDS and an OBD2 cable is probably one of the best purchases you can make!

If the car starts very roughly, it could be runner flaps not functioning correctly, could be a bit sticky. I assume you haven't done what folk call an "RFD" (runner flap delete)?

As for the performance reduction, I've felt it too this week.  It's a lot more responsive in the warmer months.  You'd think it'd be the other way round with a turbo engine, but Euro4 emissions blunt these engines significantly during warm up, which takes a lot longer when it's as cold as it is right now.  Mine doesn't perk up until pretty much the end of my 12 mile journey to work!

Hey Pudding thank you for your rapid response.

Yup car is totally standard with a recent pcv revision r change. Scanned for fault codes with a bluetooth OBD2 reader no faults or pending faults. Is VCDS better?

No idea with Runner flaps or RFD, could you ellaborate on this please, and if its DIY-able.

Yeah car isn't running as good lately but I guess its been cold in London and usually my journey ends within 12miles =/..

May need to service soon though I reckon. I had a read in the service booklet, says Camshafts need to be changed after 120k, but have no clue if mines were changed.

OK, ignore the RFD thing then, sounds like your car is standard.   Various post 2003 German engines have flaps in the intake manifold which when closed, restrict the air-flow to improve cold running.  A lot of people pushing for every last drop of hp remove these flaps, but a side effect of doing so is crap cold starting.   But if your flaps are sticking open (said the bishop.....), it could cause the symptoms you describe....as can a few other things, but yours appears to be fault code free.

Yeah VCDS is the one to get.  You can do a lot of other things with it too, like turning off / on vehicle features and monitoring everything the ECU measures.

Flaps sticking closed / or open could also have an impact on part throttle performance, but I'm pretty sure the ECU would throw a fault code if it wasn't happy with them.   You can also run diagnostic checks on things like that with VCDS, i.e. open and close them manually.

Wow. What sort of car features are we talking? Never owed a VW so clueless to this all. Previous Integra Type R owner.

And how much is a VCD? Where can I get one.

Things like:-  turning off/on the alarm plips from the remote (and door lock), turn off/on seat belt warning chimes/lights, turn off/on brake pad wear warning and a bunch of other stuff I can't remember off hand!   And if you haven't got the full MFD display, things like:- the comfort indicators, footwell lighting level, full closure of windows / sunroof on or off, close windows when it rains (if you have auto wipers), loads of things!!

The genuine VCDS cable comes from www.ross-tech.com but you can get ebay copies for a lot less.  I can't advise on the latter as I have a genuine Hex+Can cable from ross tech.   The advantage of that cable is has a dongle built in, so the full version of VCDS can be used in any post 2001 VAG car.   I think if you get a copy cable, only the VCDS lite works, which doesn't read ALL the faults or something.  Someone else may be able to advise on that!

Which flavour integra?  I always had a soft spot for the DC5 after driving one     I just didn't fancy importing one though.

[bonelorry]

All my ED30's have been poor starters, I researched and found it is a common TFSI trait.

Turns over and kind of struggles a little to burst into life, Went through everything on my last one Full Service, PCV, Varta battery, Full Diag check....No difference.

Although my 2 x CDL Engined cars have been fine.

[UniquEd30]

All my ED30's have been poor starters, I researched and found it is a common TFSI trait.

Turns over and kind of struggles a little to burst into life, Went through everything on my last one Full Service, PCV, Varta battery, Full Diag check....No difference.

Although my 2 x CDL Engined cars have been fine.

Right ok...

What about in terms of power? Did yours lack around 4.5k revs onwards? Sometimes I feel like it struggles to catch the green light.. but then i'm in gear 4, but shouldn't be powerless still...

Maybe I should consider Stage 1?

[pudding]

All my ED30's have been poor starters, I researched and found it is a common TFSI trait.

Turns over and kind of struggles a little to burst into life, Went through everything on my last one Full Service, PCV, Varta battery, Full Diag check....No difference.

Although my 2 x CDL Engined cars have been fine.

Right ok...

What about in terms of power? Did yours lack around 4.5k revs onwards? Sometimes I feel like it struggles to catch the green light.. but then i'm in gear 4, but shouldn't be powerless still...

Maybe I should consider Stage 1?

Stage 1 really wakes the car up!  From there the gains are comparatively smaller unless you start fitting bigger turbos etc.

Have a look at the intercooler and turbo discharge pipe rubber hose connections.  If they are dripping oil, you have a boost leak. The boost tends to bleed off past worn O rings which feels like pulling the handbrake up when you stomp onto the gas pedal!

It can be sorted with new O rings and clips easily enough, but if you upgrade to an S3/Golf 6R intercooler, you will lose 2 of those silly clip connections straight away.  S3/6R intercooler bolts right in and not that expensive from the dealer.  A nice little upgrade too as the Ed30 got the same intercooler as the GTI.

[SamMas]

Worth noting that your Diverter Valve may also be split causing the boost tail off at around 4.5k.

Easy enough to check on the Edition 30's K04 engines as they're mounted at the top!



The piece at the bottom right corner of this picture with the 3 torq headed bolts on.

If you remove it, check the rubber diaphragms for splits.

Also, check the part number, if it ends with B or C then it may be worth upgrading to the latest revision.
People tend to go for Revision G as this is in all terms identical to the B or C however has stronger rubber. The Revision D is a piston style and is classed as an upgrade although people have reported them failing due to the piston not sealing correctly.

Another option is to opt for the GFB DV+, this uses the base of the original valve but with the addition of the DV+ on top.

Plenty of info on here, and TFSI Tuning on Facebook! 

Edit; Just noticed your other thread, the part number for the Rev G is - 06H 145 710 G

[bonelorry]

All my ED30's have been poor starters, I researched and found it is a common TFSI trait.

Turns over and kind of struggles a little to burst into life, Went through everything on my last one Full Service, PCV, Varta battery, Full Diag check....No difference.

Although my 2 x CDL Engined cars have been fine.

Right ok...

What about in terms of power? Did yours lack around 4.5k revs onwards? Sometimes I feel like it struggles to catch the green light.. but then i'm in gear 4, but shouldn't be powerless still...

Maybe I should consider Stage 1?

Was nothing to do with the way the car drove, Just the initial start up. All mine have driven fine and pulled well across the rev range!

[UniquEd30]

Worth noting that your Diverter Valve may also be split causing the boost tail off at around 4.5k.

Easy enough to check on the Edition 30's K04 engines as they're mounted at the top!



The piece at the bottom right corner of this picture with the 3 torq headed bolts on.

If you remove it, check the rubber diaphragms for splits.

Also, check the part number, if it ends with B or C then it may be worth upgrading to the latest revision.
People tend to go for Revision G as this is in all terms identical to the B or C however has stronger rubber. The Revision D is a piston style and is classed as an upgrade although people have reported them failing due to the piston not sealing correctly.

Another option is to opt for the GFB DV+, this uses the base of the original valve but with the addition of the DV+ on top.

Plenty of info on here, and TFSI Tuning on Facebook! 

Edit; Just noticed your other thread, the part number for the Rev G is - 06H 145 710 G

Thanks for that mate, good info that, will check my dv and get it changed if its an old one.