P0016 error code

[Ricky123]

Keep getting p0016 code re appear after a couple of day’s of clearing it. Car seems to run fine at all times other than feeling abit flat higher in the Rev range.

Is it just a case of replacing the cam sensor or is there something else I should be looking at?

[pudding]

Cam and crank signals are out of alignment.

What's the mileage?  If the chain/tensioner have never been done, it's probably that. 

[Ricky123]

Cam and crank signals are out of alignment.

What's the mileage?  If the chain/tensioner have never been done, it's probably that.

Car is on 130k but I’m certain it’s had an engine swap so can’t be certain on mileage to be honest.
The Car does actually run fine and there no noise from the chain at all, it’s actually the quietest tfsi I’ve ever heard.

[pudding]

Take the cam sensor out and see if it's covered in swarf.  It's on the head under the cam cover, adjacent to the engine mount, connector pointing down.  A new cam sensor is only 40 quid so not a bank buster if it is that.

You can check the cam timing with VCDS if you have it.  Measuring block 93 iirc, the number should be between 0 and -3KW.  If it's wildly off that, the cam timing is off, which is what usually throws the P0016 fault code.

[Ricky123]

Take the cam sensor out and see if it's covered in swarf.  It's on the head under the cam cover, adjacent to the engine mount, connector pointing down.  A new cam sensor is only 40 quid so not a bank buster if it is that.

You can check the cam timing with VCDS if you have it.  Measuring block 93 iirc, the number should be between 0 and -3KW.  If it's wildly off that, the cam timing is off, which is what usually throws the P0016 fault code.

Ok I’ll check with vcds first no point wasting money on a cam sensor until I no for sure if it’s that. Do you no if a faulty cam adjuster (n205) would bring that code up?

Also are there any “special” tools required to do a cam chain replacement?

Thanks for your responses

[pudding]

The cam sensor is G40 iirc.  N205 is the VVT adjuster solenoid.  The fault codes you'd get for a broken cam sensor are usually "implausible signal", "Short to ground/B+" or "No signal".  The ECU is good at seamlessly adapting around problems, hence why it might feel normal.

The only issue I've seen with the cam sensor is it getting covered in swarf, which I think is the metallic dust from worn down HPFP cam followers.  When it gets caked in enough swarf, the ECU can lose the signal and the engine feels a bit flat, but doesn't throw a code.  As you have a code in the ECU, it's likely not that particular issue, but worth a check.

The P0016 error is more specific to the crank to cam alignment being out of sync, which is usually due to timing drift from a worn chain/tensioner.......or a cam belt change a tooth off......or a VVT adjuster that's malfunctioning.

Special tools for the chain replacement are the cam locking tool and the posi-drive socket for the VVT housing bolt.  I got both of those from VW as I don't trust flimsy pattern tools.  There is a full write up for the chain replacement in this forum, but one bit of advice I can offer is get an assistant to press hard on the breaker bar whilst you undo the VVT adjuster bolt.  It's a very shallow headed bolt that strips out mega easily if pressure isn't applied to it whilst undoing.

[Ricky123]

The cam sensor is G40 iirc.  N205 is the VVT adjuster solenoid.  The fault codes you'd get for a broken cam sensor are usually "implausible signal", "Short to ground/B+" or "No signal".  The ECU is good at seamlessly adapting around problems, hence why it might feel normal.

The only issue I've seen with the cam sensor is it getting covered in swarf, which I think is the metallic dust from worn down HPFP cam followers.  When it gets caked in enough swarf, the ECU can lose the signal and the engine feels a bit flat, but doesn't throw a code.  As you have a code in the ECU, it's likely not that particular issue, but worth a check.

The P0016 error is more specific to the crank to cam alignment being out of sync, which is usually due to timing drift from a worn chain/tensioner.......or a cam belt change a tooth off......or a VVT adjuster that's malfunctioning.

Special tools for the chain replacement are the cam locking tool and the posi-drive socket for the VVT housing bolt.  I got both of those from VW as I don't trust flimsy pattern tools.  There is a full write up for the chain replacement in this forum, but one bit of advice I can offer is get an assistant to press hard on the breaker bar whilst you undo the VVT adjuster bolt.  It's a very shallow headed bolt that strips out mega easily if pressure isn't applied to it whilst undoing.

Yer it said implausible signal when I checked the codes think I remember it also saying g40 but I think it may have also said g28 too?

[pudding]

Could be the sensor then, which is a relief as that's cheap and easy.

Was the other error something along the lines of "Cam/crank correlation error G28" ?   A new cam sensor should shift that error as well.

[Ricky123]

Could be the sensor then, which is a relief as that's cheap and easy.

Was the other error something along the lines of "Cam/crank correlation error G28" ?   A new cam sensor should shift that error as well.

Couldn’t get access to VCDS today as I co-own it with a mate and he’s away all weekend.

I pulled the cam sensor today and it did a have a film of very fine swarf type material on it, I cleaned the sensor then disconnected the battery to do a sort of soft reset on the ecu.

Once back together I started the car and the EML is now off, I’ve driven it around 40 miles since and it is yet to return. I’d say the car feels slightly more responsive but could just be in my head.

I’ll still check the measuring blocks with VCDS next week regardless of if the EML returns or not.

I want to get the car remapped next year so I think I’ll replace the cam chain kit anyway in the new year just for piece of mind.

[pudding]

Mine had approx 2mm thick of swarf on it, which probably weakened the cam signal a bit. 

Yeah I would stick a new sensor in and do the chain gear personally, and also the sump pick up pipe.  It'll go on for many more years after doing those two jobs.

The posi-drive bit for the VVT adjuster is £15ish from VW, Tool number T40080.  I would urge you to get that one as I've heard reports of the ebay/Laser tools ones snapping.  That tiny bolt needs a VERY hefty breaking torque, but is only tightened to 40nm or something weak like that.

The cam locking tool is number T10252 and cost about £140 when I bought it 4 or 5 years ago.  Happy to loan you mine if that's a bit rich for a one time job.  I really wouldn't use a cheap one as they bend, causing the cams to move when undoing the VVT bolt.