Keep spending or call it a day.... Update…

[oldskool.andy]

Thanks all… a lot of food for thought for sure!

I have a quote for a sump clean and new pickup but not going to jump into spending £300 just yet when it was only done last year albeit without a new pickup as far as I can tell but will call the garage and see if they can tell me.

The one thing to note is that the oil pressure message has never come on when driven hard - it is when I am at low revs and possibly in 3rd gear when 2nd would have been better if that makes sense?

I am still trying to revive my old laptop to use VagCom but when I use my generic scanner it shows no engine faults.

I will change the filter and oil with genuine parts as some posts I have seen elsewhere state that a non genuine oil filter can’t keep oil pressure but who knows if that’s true! It’s due a service so it’s money that would have to be spent anyway.

I know that getting rid would be the sensible thing to do but I have grown attached to the pinky red lacquer less old girl! Besides… the wings are genuine and only a few years old and actually still red!

Thanks again everyone… I will update when something else breaks! ;)

Andy

[mjmallia]

The low oil pressure problem can also be caused by the three rings in the cam actuator and also a small screen in the casing

My first ring was cracked as made an issue with idle, but driving normal and also hard was fine....the screening mesh was also slightly blocked. but blown out in reverse cleared it.

[oldskool.andy]

The low oil pressure problem can also be caused by the three rings in the cam actuator and also a small screen in the casing

My first ring was cracked as made an issue with idle, but driving normal and also hard was fine....the screening mesh was also slightly blocked. but blown out in reverse cleared it.

Thanks for that - is that on the oil pump itself?

I have driven her for some extended test drives but kept the revs up when in 2nd and 3rd and had no issues whatsoever.

Booked in to SJB in Basingstoke next week to get a proper diagnosis and will go from there.

Thanks again everyone!
Andy

[mjmallia]

It is the cam chain casing.......near the vacuum pump

[oldskool.andy]

It is the cam chain casing.......near the vacuum pump

Thanks…. These engines are a lot different to the Mk1 Golf I’m used to working on! The cam chain was replaced less than 25k ago, would that part have been replaced also?

Many thanks!
Andy

[mjmallia]

No.

The rings can easily get damaged when putting the casing back on after a chain change.........it happened to me and took a while to figure out. We also found the snapped part in the oil feed screen mentioned, luckily

I would place money on one of the rings (middle one I bet) being snapped.  You can get the three new rings from VW TPS for about £30 or less if its one of them.

It is a case to slide the casing off and inspecting unfortunately.......not as bad a job as doing the chain change thankfully.

[mjmallia]

The three ring set p/n is 06F198107A  buy genuine as there are aftermarket ones about

[mjmallia]

[oldskool.andy]

Brilliant - will see what the garage find on Monday and go from there.

Thanks for taking the time to help out :)

Andy

[oldskool.andy]

Right… Garage have called and here is where we are at.

The oil pressure was slightly low so the sump was dropped and the oil pick up was half blocked.

Apparently the pickups are near impossible to clean so a new one has been fitted and oil pressure is back within spec.

However… metal fragments were found in the sump so I need to investigate further. 

Thanks everyone who helped out!

Andy

[pudding]

For the low cost of a new pipe and O ring, that is the preferred method and best practice. 

If the metal crumbs don't stick to a magnet, that'll be one or more of your bearings from oil starvation unfortunately, or possibly from cams running dry. 

If it sounds and runs OK with restored oil pressure, I'd leave it for now and start saving for a replacement engine further down the line.

[oldskool.andy]

For the low cost of a new pipe and O ring, that is the preferred method and best practice. 

If the metal crumbs don't stick to a magnet, that'll be one or more of your bearings from oil starvation unfortunately, or possibly from cams running dry. 

If it sounds and runs OK with restored oil pressure, I'd leave it for now and start saving for a replacement engine further down the line.

I will see if the garage kept a sample but hoping for some good luck as the car only did 30 or so miles after the 1st oil light came on and with the oil pressure only just being below spec.

I am going to get her MOT’d in January and go from there.

The impossible question is how to prevent oil sludge going forward? Different oil or more frequent oil changes?

Thank again!
Andy

[Lewo]

Millers oil I use.
Opie have /had 20% off so a good deal.

[LC5F]

Your Golf was probably on a long life service schedule - change to short and service more often.

Default oil is 5w30, but is a bit thin for older engines, change to thicker Quantum 5w40 fully synthetic - plus its built with all the vitamins and minerals VW specify.

Maybe, consider an oil flush at the next change to remove more internal build up - but speak to your garage - with the state of the pick-up this may create more problems.

[pudding]

For the low cost of a new pipe and O ring, that is the preferred method and best practice. 

If the metal crumbs don't stick to a magnet, that'll be one or more of your bearings from oil starvation unfortunately, or possibly from cams running dry. 

If it sounds and runs OK with restored oil pressure, I'd leave it for now and start saving for a replacement engine further down the line.

I will see if the garage kept a sample but hoping for some good luck as the car only did 30 or so miles after the 1st oil light came on and with the oil pressure only just being below spec.

I am going to get her MOT’d in January and go from there.

The impossible question is how to prevent oil sludge going forward? Different oil or more frequent oil changes?

Thank again!
Andy

100% that. 

People get bogged down in "What oil?" debates all the time but the engine doesn't give 2.5 schitts what oil it has, just that it has some, and that it's changed frequently. 

I do mine every 3000 miles.  Yes that is excessive to most people, but given how black and stinky it is even after that short period, it's getting changed.  I don't care.  Consequently, all the cast metal parts are still like new inside the engine, after 161K miles.  It's still on the original turbo as well.