The Helix isn't heavy compared to some other uprated clutches, but it it's still a LOT heavier than a new OEM clutch.
The Helix is the most streetable clutch I've ever used. Yeah it can be a bit tiresome in heavy traffic, and I don't have chicken legs, but unlike a lot of other uprated clutches, it doesn't judder when loading up the bite pulling away, it's not snatchy, it doesn't chatter and it's reasonably priced for it's smoothness and torque handling capacity. It literally feels oem, just heavier. Can't ask for more than that.
I used version 1 with the steel sachs sporting pressure plate, and I also used version 1.5 with Helix's own billet pressure plate. Version 2 sounds interesting! Looking forward to some feedback on that one. Historically, Helix only ever made friction discs and used existing pressure plates, usually from Sachs. It's good to see they are now making their own plates to address a lot of issues with the existing ones falling apart, or just not working properly
Version one wasn't great if I'm honest. The bite point was far too low as Kam760 mentioned, and if you have too much slack in the gearbox input shaft bearings, and/or too much crankshaft end play, you get clutch creep, and crunchtastic 1st to 2nd shifts.
Version 1.5 disappointingly wasn't any lighter on the pedal, but it felt more consistent. And bizarrely enough, the billet pressure plate felt the same weight as the steel one, if not a bit heavier. I was hoping for some reduction in rotating mass
Something to bear in mind - with aftermarket uprated clutches, you're doubling the pressure plate spring rate, sometimes more, which can kill off tired slave and master cylinders. I would also check and replace the little steel clips that hold the bleed T, delay valve and master cylinder lines in place. If they are rusty and falling apart, believe me, the stiffer clutch will rip those right out and blow the clutch line off. Don't ask how I know.
And if that isn't bad enough, do enough miles in heavy traffic and heavy clutches can destroy the crank thrust washer. It's a lame design to begin with, which just about copes with a stock clutch. Again, don't ask how I know.
My circumstances were perhaps a bit over and above the norm though, dailying it @ 20K miles a year. I suppose I was asking for some issues, and I knew that going into it
Not trying to put anyone off, because you NEED a stiffer clutch to handle remaps, just raising awareness of some seldom mentioned pitfalls.
As for the TTRS clutch, I nearly pulled the trigger on one but I read too many conflicting reviews about pedal weight. Some said it was OEM light, and others said it was extremely stiff. If you factor in Audi no doubt used bigger master/slave cylinders and a different pedal fulcrum to reduce pedal effort, you're not going to get a TTRS pedal feel in a Golf, so I leaned more towards the latter opinions and went with the Helix 1.5 instead.
If Helix version 2 is indeed lighter, then I would take that all day long because Helix put streetability ahead of outright torque capacity.
As for the diff, should have gone Wavetrac
Quaifes aren't bad but what the marketing keeps quiet about is it's still an open diff if one wheel loses more than 90% traction, which is easily done if you have a lot of torque. They are more of a cornering grip aid than a straight line traction improver.
They need loading up to work You need to accelerate into corners to feel it working, otherwise you just get more understeer, which is counter intuitive. It takes some getting used to.
The Wavetrac addresses many of the shortcomings of a regular torsen ATB diff, but they're expensive, so it's a cost-benefit thing.
The most effective solution would be the Wavetrac or Quaife in combination with a MK6 XDS ABS upgrade
Wheel braking as a soft LSD is pretty effective, but the MK5's TC is very old tech only works up to 30mph I think, but the MK6 XDS works up to 60mph and is way more reactive.
