DIY Cambelt and water pump change

[bodger00]

I'm thinking about doing this myself but but havent got the full story yet so I am hoping some of you can help.

Approximate costs
Cam belt £60?
Water pump £100?
New coolant £50? (apparently I need a fair bit).

Can anyone confirm these costs and if I would need anything else. A how to would be ideal but I am aware this isn't a job for the faint hearted.

I have changed them in the past but perhaps I need to talk myself out of doing this on my pride and joy this time

My reasons for considering DIY is:
1. I dont trust my dealer
2. I know I am not limited by time and so therefore should make just as good a job.
3. I could save some money doing it (but is it worth the risk). I suppose if it snaps afterwards I can claim from dealer if they do it.

I suppose if I had a great delear who I could trust then I would be taking to them.....

What are your thoughts guys?

[stealthwolf]

have you not got a good independent specialist you could use?

[bodger00]

I tried one and they ended up leaving a two foot inspection lamp clamped to my exhaust (sounds painful  )

[vRStu]

I think you've over estimated your costs to be honest, especially in the coolant department and I'm sure a water pump is nearer £25-£30 exchange.

What's the warranty status of your car?

If you are doing it, don't buy the parts from eBay but them from a franchised dealer.

[stealthwolf]

Or from TPS.

[bodger00]

I think you've over estimated your costs to be honest, especially in the coolant department and I'm sure a water pump is nearer £25-£30 exchange.

What's the warranty status of your car?

If you are doing it, don't buy the parts from eBay but them from a franchised dealer.

That's reassuring about the costs.
I'm a tps convert now. All I need to do is get that discount down to more than ten percent

[Gene Hunt]

Coolant is around £7.50 a bottle x2 should do it. Genuine cambelt kit is over £100.00 but has everything you need in it.

[bodger00]

Thanks Gene! That makes it cost effective then. Humm has anyone done this DIY?

[Gene Hunt]

Thanks Gene! That makes it cost effective then. Humm anyone does this DIY?

.........were abouts are you ?.Could have a word with my mate ?.

[vRStu]

I think you'll find you need new bolts for the engine mount too.

Just be very careful that you are sure it's worth it.  A lot of people get twitchy about Cam Belts, you've only got to read the posts here when people ask for advice about buying a car - It's one of the first things that is mentioned.

For the sake of £50 or so it really may not be worth it.  How about Stafford Audi - http://www.audicambelt.co.uk/

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AUDI-CAMBELT-AND-TENSIONER-CHANGE-A2-A3-A4-A6-TT-/380198991150?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5885a0352e

[QD MBE]

i did mine on my old 1.8T, very similar procedure (engine mount removal and new bolts etc!).  A right royal PITA.

Not impossible, but not easy all the same, the space is quite restrictive.  I bought some new High tensile steel allen bolts from my local fastener supplier, not paying VW to use their stuff again.

Took a few hours, and if you take your time, and use OEM parts (apart from the bolts!)

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Firstly, read this thread: http://www.mk5golfgti.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,1797.0.html - and in particular, download this: http://vwts.ru/engine/bpy/bpy_15-1.pdf, this: http://vwts.ru/engine/bpy/bpy_19.pdf, and this: http://vwts.ru/suspension/g5/g5_40-7.pdf.

The actual changing of the belt, tensioner and idler rollers has got to be one of the easiest on the planet - but the prep work is an utter ba$tard.  You need to: disconnect the exhaust at the turbo, disconnect both driveshafts at the transmission (OK, you can get away with leaving the left one attached), completely remove the right engine mount, jack the engine at about 45 degrees, then remove the right engine mount support - only then can you gain access to the cam belt and tensioner.

If you have a Haynes manual - IGNORE their method of setting the tensioner - it is WRONG.  Use only the method described in the official factory workshop manual for setting the tensioner (pi$$ easy - not rocket science, and no special tools needed).

If you are gong to do this, with the waterpump, fully drain the coolant.  The radiator has quick release hose connections top and bottom which need removing.  But also remove the lower hose on the auxillary electric coolant pump.  Go to your nearest Cromwell Industrial Supplies (www.Cromwell.co.uk) and purchase a small tube of Rocol Sapphire Aqua Sil silcone grease - http://www.cromwell.co.uk/ROC7706140Q.  Apply a thin smear to the plastic flanges on the radiator (where the quick release fittings go), and also to the rubber 'O' ring and flange on the water pump.

Pre-mix your new coolant to a 40% concentrate (50% mix is too high in the UK).  You will probably only need two 1.5 litre bottles of G12++ coolant.  Never, EVER use a non-genuine cam belt kit.

Oh, and you do NOT need new bolts for the engine mounts - they are NOT 'stretch' bolts, so they can be re-used.

[bodger00]

Thanks TT. I think have been talked out of it. A dealer within 40 miles is offering £199 for cambelt change and £299 with a waterpump change. Sounds like a good deal so have booked myself in after a quick recy.
Thanks for your informative post though. Will prob do the coolant myself

[Teutonic_Tamer]

Thanks TT. I think have been talked out of it. A dealer within 40 miles is offering £199 for cambelt change and £299 with a waterpump change. Sounds like a good deal so have booked myself in after a quick recy.
Thanks for your informative post though. Will prob do the coolant myself

Robbing ba$tards - charging you £100 for a £25ish water pump (there is a negligable extra labour charge - about 10 minutes)!