Decorating Advice

[Beddie]

I always use satinwood, no yellowing and easier to use.

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I've changed all the glossed wood in the house to satinwood as I much prefer the finish and the lack of oils in the paint prevents it from yellowing, however for my stair spindles and handrail I used a satin white enamel paint as its a bit more hard wearing against knocks etc and you can clean it without worrying about taking any paint off  

[Mk5 GTian]

I always use satinwood, no yellowing and easier to use.

^ this  

I've changed all the glossed wood in the house to satinwood as I much prefer the finish and the lack of oils in the paint prevents it from yellowing, however for my stair spindles and handrail I used a satin white enamel paint as its a bit more hard wearing against knocks etc and you can clean it without worrying about taking any paint off  

Is that a non-solvent based satinwood you are using then? Oil-based satinwoods will also yellow. A non-oil based satinwood will not have the same level of durability, and the skirting, architraves and other woodwork that require protecting often take a battering from hoovers, kids, and things being carried through the house. Sikkens Satura is the best Satinwood IMO, and again I've not had any problems with this yellowing prematurely, whilst it is solvent based giving a durable finish.

[Eccie]

Love painting - Hate cleaning brushes, any tips

Also about to paint a bedroom floor white (Scandinavian look) what paint (thinking Farrow & Ball floor paint)

[Mk5 GTian]

For oil-based paints buy a Brushmate 4

http://www.decorating-supplies.co.uk/epages/BT3825.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT3825/Products/110

Stores up to 4 brushes, keeping them wet so you don't need to worry about them. Just don't forget what paint is on each one! Only about 12-15 quid. It comes with a filter soaked in a chemical which keeps the paint from going off, this lasts about 6 weeks, but I've got them to last 3-4 months by masking the lid of the box to keep it air tight.
When you do come to clean them, a quick soak in white spirit, followed by a heavy working of Fairy Liquid into the bristles to break down the oil in the paint, followed by warm water to wash it away. You usually need to repeat this process at least once until the bristles are squeeky clean. Then give the brush a good rinse under a tap to remove the suds completely. Cleaning is a lot easier with quality synthetic brushes.

For water based paints, just wash them out in water when wet. It takes seconds.

F&B Floor paint is pretty good, but if you want something super-durable, then I'd use Coovar floor paint, which is very good on wooden floors in particular. You'll get double the volume for your money too.  

[rich83]

I always use satinwood, no yellowing and easier to use.

^ this  

I've changed all the glossed wood in the house to satinwood as I much prefer the finish and the lack of oils in the paint prevents it from yellowing, however for my stair spindles and handrail I used a satin white enamel paint as its a bit more hard wearing against knocks etc and you can clean it without worrying about taking any paint off  

X3  

Much easier to use than gloss and i prefer the finish.

[Mk5 GTian]

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A lot of my clients prefer a satinwood or eggshell finish, but as I mentioned above, If these are oil-based they can still yellow.

Sikkens Satura is my favoured solution for a solvent-based satin finish. I've had no callbacks for yellowing, and it's very durable, with a beautiful finish possible when applied with a good quality synthetic brush (I use Purdy's, the best brushes known to man!).

http://www.decoratingwarehouse.co.uk/buy/woodstains/sikkens-woodstains/sikkens-rubbol-satura-plus/462

Acrylic or waterbased satinwoods don't flatten in the same way that an oil-based product will, and are far less durable to the sort of knocks they are likely to be subjected to. The paint can become quite chalky, and can come away when trying to clean the surface.

[TANNER]

Thanks Ian & for everyone elses input, will give satinwood a go and see how it looks!

[Mk5 GTian]

Thanks Ian & for everyone elses input, will give satinwood a go and see how it looks!

No worries. 

I was talking to the manager in Brewers in Woking yesterday, and they have had absolutely no problems reported with the Sikkens Satura (see above). He told me this is probably due to the fact that Sikkens were on top of the 2010 compliancy back in 2008, so have had a lot longer to get it right as regards yellowing.

If you are going to go for a non-solvent based satinwood, he recommended the Dulux Diamond, as it is very durable, but you won't get a glass smooth finish as you would with an oil-based. I might give this a try though myself next time I have an 'eco-client'!