(update) Standard GTI on 17s , (update) Harsh crashy ride with knocks creaking.

[raven8472]

Over the last few months or so the ride quality on my MK5 GTI has gone from firm and comfortable to noticably crashy with a slight knocking sound on the drivers front.

Also as my driveway is sloped when reverse parking i sometimes can hear a subtle creaking underneath the car which wasnt there previously doing the same move.

I had a reputable indie garage in High Wycombe/Bucks investigate and they changed Renewed  both lower wishbone/arm/link bearings( bushes ), Replaced engine stabiliser (think that was a single engine mount ) and a anti rollbar link.

Didnt make any difference and im bit disapointment i spend money on this with no benefit. They said nothing else is wrong but not sure they spend any time investigating before hand.

Any advice or recomendations(garage i can travel to). maybe shocks for the ride quality . I am booked in for a Precat delete and cam follower swap beginning of July with AKS tuning.

Could do with a set of new tyres but wanted to get this sorted beforehand.

[cooljimy84]

Do we hand top mounts ? if so i say check the top mounts.
I get creaks as i transfer from road to drive way, as i come on/off at a angle. Did it more in my slammed mk4, but still there.

[raven8472]

Thanks,

without access to a ramp is hard, Gonna try another garage to take a look.

[cooljimy84]

Also don't over look tyres. The wrong PSI can make the ride worse.
When they set the cars up they account for the tyre package, and set the suspension to account for the movement in the tyre.

[raven8472]

Good advise on tyres, PSI down to 35 all round. Going to replace all 4 as the front are cheapie Avon's on 94 load. Gonna try 91 load tyres and see if
That Helps.

[cooljimy84]

35 ?!?! i'm on standard rims and put mine up to 30 PSI....

[GS WAX]

Friend of mine has just had the exact same issue, i even thought it was him posting this.
New front shocks needed, creaking rear was handbrake , clean up  rear discs/ pads
And handbrake mechanism.

And tell the garage you wanted to spend on an exact diagnosis rather than pay for them to fit random unneccessary  parts.

[raven8472]

Thanks, tempted to get new front shocks. Car is nearing 60k miles but last few year according to mots been doing local milleage rather than sat on motorway. Just had a word with the garage who have agreed to take a second look and were bit sympathetic so will see.

Car doesn't absorb the bumps as nice . My previous car was a e90 BMW on 18inch rims with run flats.

[GTiBlues]

I'm also running 17's. Running at 38psi for handling when it's dry. 34psi when the weather is shocking.

Something else that might convince you. My front shocks are shot, very bouncy and the handling and stiffness has gone. I get a creeking squidgy sound too and thats my top mounts.

Lifting the scuttle panel I can see the top nut nearly touching the bulk head...tilting into the center of the car. I fitted Eibach springs to my shocks with brandnew top mounts. My car had covered 90k so it was due doom!

Standard GTI shocks from TPS is £60 each, also advised to get Audi TTRS/S3 top mounts etc. They are around £85 for the pair with new bearings and bolts etc.

[raven8472]

Thanks

I presume there a difference between standard  and GTi shocks. Plan seems to be let them have another look, replace shocks for OEM and get new tyres and 4 wheel laser

[GTiBlues]

I meant standard GTI shocks above.

[btowery]

I’m a former IMSA racer, now Chief Instructor at Chin Motorsports the largest presenter of track days in the Southeast USA.
The suggestions above are all on the right path for resolving your issue, which--as you have come to realize--is probably going to require shocks. Nevertheless, the bushings were probably shot as well and, seeing that, you technician probably made a good call, in spite of its not curing the symptom that took you first noticed. Odds are, the two things are interrelated.

As to your decision about 17" wheels, I believe it to be sound. I do a lot of track days in my MK5. For tracking your car, 17" wheels are good for these related reasons: 1) running a 235X45 17, I'm putting a lot of rubber on the ground with minimal weight (as you probably know, unsprung weight is the most costly to performance)--my OZ 8.5" Alleggerita wheels weigh just over 16 lbs each; 2) the taller sidewall gives me a lot of pneumatic adjustment; the easiest at track set up change for a busy day at the track with no crew; and, finally, but not last in importance, 3) 17" tires are significantly less expensive.

[GTiBlues]

I’m a former IMSA racer, now Chief Instructor at Chin Motorsports the largest presenter of track days in the Southeast USA.
The suggestions above are all on the right path for resolving your issue, which--as you have come to realize--is probably going to require shocks. Nevertheless, the bushings were probably shot as well and, seeing that, you technician probably made a good call, in spite of its not curing the symptom that took you first noticed. Odds are, the two things are interrelated.

As to your decision about 17" wheels, I believe it to be sound. I do a lot of track days in my MK5. For tracking your car, 17" wheels are good for these related reasons: 1) running a 235X45 17, I'm putting a lot of rubber on the ground with minimal weight (as you probably know, unsprung weight is the most costly to performance)--my OZ 8.5" Alleggerita wheels weigh just over 16 lbs each; 2) the taller sidewall gives me a lot of pneumatic adjustment; the easiest at track set up change for a busy day at the track with no crew; and, finally, but not last in importance, 3) 17" tires are significantly less expensive.

Always wondered about sticking 235 tyre on as the 225 looks slighty stretched. I drive hard through Devon B roads and do feel the lack of tread grip. Thought a 235 tyre might be too big for the standard 17's.

[cooljimy84]

I’m a former IMSA racer, now Chief Instructor at Chin Motorsports the largest presenter of track days in the Southeast USA.
The suggestions above are all on the right path for resolving your issue, which--as you have come to realize--is probably going to require shocks. Nevertheless, the bushings were probably shot as well and, seeing that, you technician probably made a good call, in spite of its not curing the symptom that took you first noticed. Odds are, the two things are interrelated.

As to your decision about 17" wheels, I believe it to be sound. I do a lot of track days in my MK5. For tracking your car, 17" wheels are good for these related reasons: 1) running a 235X45 17, I'm putting a lot of rubber on the ground with minimal weight (as you probably know, unsprung weight is the most costly to performance)--my OZ 8.5" Alleggerita wheels weigh just over 16 lbs each; 2) the taller sidewall gives me a lot of pneumatic adjustment; the easiest at track set up change for a busy day at the track with no crew; and, finally, but not last in importance, 3) 17" tires are significantly less expensive.

Always wondered about sticking 235 tyre on as the 225 looks slighty stretched. I drive hard through Devon B roads and do feel the lack of tread grip. Thought a 235 tyre might be too big for the standard 17's.

** Assumption here **
So drifters run stretched width tyres, so that the when transitioning between drifting one way and the other they break traction easier. (usually compensating with a higher sidewall number)
Going on that a 235 on a wheel for a 225 would give move flex. This might would make the daily driver less aware of bumps in the road, as the tyre has move flex/movement, another side affect might be better wet/cold weather handling as the tyre can move a bit more.
That said as you change direction you might it a bit slower to react as one side of the tyre goes from compression to tension.

I would think that this wouldn't be too noticeable unless you did a side by side tho....

PLEASE CORRECT ME IF THIS IS WRONG (as its a good way to learn)

[raven8472]

Well having my Front Shocks, Top mounts Replaced along with  drop links the ride is much better. The bad news is the knocking sound from the drivers side is still present and having put the car on a low loader to inspect how the car is sitting with its weight mechanic has stripped the steering rack partly and diagnosed the noise as the actual rack.

A Mount or bush inside the rack is causing the noise, rack is working but with the knocking sound.

So options are 1) Brand new Rack , loads on money  2) OEM Pattern part much cheaper but questionable quality  or 3) try my luck on Ebay. Not sure on part numbers but cars between 2007-2008 are available.