Candy White Golf GTI Ed. 30 - 8th track day at Estoril

[teo_parvu]

It really depends on the tyre compound. For street tyres a 2 degrees negative camber is ok, but semislicks require more and for slicks I think 3 degrees is the right setup.

[Shoduchi]

Why not get the Audi TT suspension arms - with adjustable camber and get more than 2 degrees of camber?
I promise it won't affect the tire wear  - as I've been running them for years and I don't see anything wrong with the tires. Oh... for the track more than 3 degrees would be ideal but you can't get that with OEM suspension parts.
 

From what I read about it that would require to have the steering arms ends modded to be able to fit the TT steering arm ball joints. I prefer to keep those stock for the moment.

Thank you for your suggestion and your personal experience. I'll take that into account.

[Shoduchi]

I'm surprised you are not running Ground Control camber plates.  2.5 degrees camber available from those, plus another degree from the SuperPro BJs.  The camber plates are so much more than just camber though.  Spherical bearings supporting the damper rods makes a huge difference to damper response and cornering control, especially if there are bumps mid corner.   

I have a set of them waiting go on, but they are 15mm shallower than the OEM top mounts, so I need an 200mm long front spring to maintain the same ride height.  I don't want to use a helper spring setup, I hate them!!

I also raised my ride height to approx 10mm lower than stock.  I wasn't getting arch rubbing, but I just like to keep the stock roll center and suspension travel, ground clearance etc     It feels a lot better raised up.  More responsive to turn in and less 'jiggly' over bumps.

I like the rear drop links    Sealed ball joints instead of Spherical bearings.  You don't want spherical bearings on exposed suspension parts, they just don't last!

I thought about those before but I'm afraid of losing my current ride comfort and NVH level. I think we share a similar taste in ride comfort, so I'll wait for your feedback when you get the top mounts fitted. If you approve them, I'll go with the same setup.

I just want to get the ride of my car setup a bit better than stock and able to go to a track without having any issue. I'm also worried about high speed stability when increasing the negative camber too much. I have no experience with driving something with -2º or -2.5º of front camber.

[Shoduchi]

I’m sure it is no small coincidence that the former GT3 development guy who moved from Porsche to VW chose to use 2 degrees on the Clubsport S. Not sure what toe settings they use on the CS.

Hmm, that's interesting info.

[Shoduchi]

It really depends on the tyre compound. For street tyres a 2 degrees negative camber is ok, but semislicks require more and for slicks I think 3 degrees is the right setup.

I'm so out of those specs still. 

Thanks for the shared knowledge buddy!

[rex]

Why not get the Audi TT suspension arms - with adjustable camber and get more than 2 degrees of camber?
I promise it won't affect the tire wear  - as I've been running them for years and I don't see anything wrong with the tires. Oh... for the track more than 3 degrees would be ideal but you can't get that with OEM suspension parts.
 

From what I read about it that would require to have the steering arms ends modded to be able to fit the TT steering arm ball joints. I prefer to keep those stock for the moment.

Thank you for your suggestion and your personal experience. I'll take that into account.

If you have the R32 hubs, you are correct.
If you have the stock, steel hubs, that they are directly bolt on.

[pudding]

I'm surprised you are not running Ground Control camber plates.  2.5 degrees camber available from those, plus another degree from the SuperPro BJs.  The camber plates are so much more than just camber though.  Spherical bearings supporting the damper rods makes a huge difference to damper response and cornering control, especially if there are bumps mid corner.   

I have a set of them waiting go on, but they are 15mm shallower than the OEM top mounts, so I need an 200mm long front spring to maintain the same ride height.  I don't want to use a helper spring setup, I hate them!!

I also raised my ride height to approx 10mm lower than stock.  I wasn't getting arch rubbing, but I just like to keep the stock roll center and suspension travel, ground clearance etc     It feels a lot better raised up.  More responsive to turn in and less 'jiggly' over bumps.

I like the rear drop links    Sealed ball joints instead of Spherical bearings.  You don't want spherical bearings on exposed suspension parts, they just don't last!

I thought about those before but I'm afraid of losing my current ride comfort and NVH level. I think we share a similar taste in ride comfort, so I'll wait for your feedback when you get the top mounts fitted. If you approve them, I'll go with the same setup.

I just want to get the ride of my car setup a bit better than stock and able to go to a track without having any issue. I'm also worried about high speed stability when increasing the negative camber too much. I have no experience with driving something with -2º or -2.5º of front camber.

I bought mine from Fab5freddy on here.  He said there was no NVH, or very little, and if you research them on the internet, a lot of people say the same 

They use a BMW M3 bearing for the steering, and a spherical bearing to support the piston rod.  The BMW bearing (like the OEM VW bearing) has a plastic housing, so that filters out most of the noise.

I bought stiffer Eibach springs for my Ohlins (80n/mm front, 75n/mm rear) and was going to fit the Ground Controls at the same time, but I realised I needed 200mm  front springs.  Ohlins use 180mm.  It's that or using a helper spring setup, which I really do not like, so longer springs it is!  I will let you know when they are fitted 
But for now the stiffer springs and raised ride height have improved cornering flatness with no loss of ride quality.  I don't want to fit bigger ARBs.  Stiffer springs work just as well 

Yeah you will lose a bit of straight line stability with too much camber, and moving the hub in our out with camber usually requires the toe to be realigned as well, so it can be a pain!

[Shoduchi]

I've read many online reviews/feedback stating that the GC top mounts are the best available, but they're not cheap, so not easy to make the decision to go for them and later regretting to have them fitted when I'm not after an extreme build for track.

I'll wait for your review while I try out my current setup.

[Shoduchi]

Fitted today the RS3 air ducts to my S3/Passat front control arms. I used the following part numbers:

• Vent: 8P0 863 149 A and 8P0 863 150 A
• Bolt: N104 222 03 (x2)
• Nut: N 907 611 02 (x2)
• Bolt: N104 222 03 (x2)
• Aluminium tube from the RS3: 8P0 864 133 (x2)

After torquing the bolts and nuts there's still a bit of wiggle on the vent. Anyone else has done this? Is this to be expected? 🤔

I preferred to remove the OEM dust shields, instead of cutting the rear section to let the air reach the disc.

[Shoduchi]

Finally had the opportunity to get the AKS Tuning VAG TFSI cam follower to TSI cam follower roller conversion kit fitted.

I've also removed the Celtemp cover from the HPFP. The TTS engine cover wouldn't fit properly with that HPFP cover fitted. Due to the new HPFP position I don't think that it's likely that the engine cover will be able to damage the HPFP top sensor plug. From what I felt with my fingers the engine cover can't touch the HPFP, especially due to the oil catch can silicone pipes touching the engine cover when it's completely snugged in its brackets.



After that was done I had the oil and filter exchanged. This time with Motul 300V Power 5w40. Last service was in September 2017 and the car has made 5850 km/3635 miles.

[Shoduchi]

Now I notice a quieter idle. It's just the injectors working, mostly. The cam chain and cam chain tensioner were also inspected and looked in good condition. The cam chain timing on VCDS is spot on. The engine has a bit more than 80k km/50k miles, at the moment

[Shoduchi]

Finally fitted the upgraded LPFP. Went with the DeatschWerks DW65v because it uses a basket from a mk5 LPFP, so the fuel lever sensor is the same as the one fitted on the factory LPFP, which means the fuel level readings won't be off like with the TTRS LPFP.

The installation is pretty straight forward. So I ordered an used LPFP (1K0919051AE) from eBay and a new LPFP seal ring from VW (1J0919133B). Just mind that some of these pumps have the 3rd connector at the top opened from cars with a fuel pre heater system. I didn't notice that detail before ordering so my friend who fitted the pump had to improvise something to block that connector. He just cut a small portion of a fuel line hose and blocked it with a screw.

All fitted back in the car, so I went to test it. It primed right away when turned the ignition on and the sound was a bit more noticeable than the stock fuel pump. Now I have always +5 bar after a long run on WOT, when before the stock fuel pump would start to fail that demanded fuel pressure. Should get my tune tweaked to prevent overheating the fuel pump control module this week.

I still have a water/methanol throttle body spacer plate from AKS Tuning to fit with a WMI kit (still not ordered). The Summer here has been colder than usual (<30ºC) so the need to fit the WMI isn't really that great, fortunately.

[pudding]

The standard GTI and TT-S engine covers do not foul the HPFP with the AKS roller conversion kit 

Motul 300V is a good oil     I've been looking at LiquiMoly Molygen, it's supposed to be a very good oil.  A Millers Nanodrive alternative, but with VAG 502.00 approval, which the Millers does not have 

What number do you see in VCDS block 91, or is it 93? Can't remember.  -3KW is about right.

[Adrian]

Love the project, very inspirational. Keep up the good work 

[Jakey]

Great project! Keep it up